Abelo's new hive colours

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The oldest poly hives I know of are run by Struan Apiaries in Conon bridge and they are 40 years +. The last I heard they are going strong in a migratory Bee Farming environment.

As for alighting boards, they are not needed by the bees. Are they on trees for natural colonies, of course not. Bees will happily land on the face of the hive and run down and in.

None of my hives have them now or pretty much ever. I have had the odd one that came with a colony I bought in but they very soon were sawn off as they take up valuable space on the transportation. If the bees are not being moved then no doubt they are interesting but from a practical point of view they are a nuisance.

PH
 
OU use them as well, with the instruction to do just that.

The green compostable kitchen bags don’t.
I’ve given them every chance but I still find them in three year old compost. Maybe our compost doesn’t get hot enough. I line my kitchen compost bin with paper.
 
The green compostable kitchen bags don’t.
I’ve given them every chance but I still find them in three year old compost. Maybe our compost doesn’t get hot enough. I line my kitchen compost bin with paper.


:yeahthat: We use our local paper, most weeks it could go in without being read.


Happy Christmas to all and a Peaceful New Year.
 
As for alighting boards, they are not needed by the bees. Are they on trees for natural colonies, of course not. Bees will happily land on the face of the hive and run down and in. PH

Personally i think it would be hard for a tired cold bee or a fully laden bee undershoot the entrance on a barked tree trunk...quite different for a hive on a stand..
I have sat and viewed the bees many many times over the years and when they come in cold or with a gut full of nectar or loaded with big bags of pollen roughly 70% make into the hive as normal but the other 30% hit the landing board short of the entrance or totally miss the landing board and hit the ground underneath the stand ..when it is warm part of that 30% can gain flight again for a second try...when it is cold them that miss the landing board are basically dead..if that landing board was not there probably 30% of them bees would be dead..if they fall short on a tree trunk they can just climb up so a bit different to a bee hive on a stand...each to there own but from several years of sat viewing the entrance to a hive i think i will stick with the landing boards just to save a good few bees from dying.. if you are more concerned about saving a little space when moving hives in the back of the truck than killing bees then crack on..;)
 
The green compostable kitchen bags don’t.
I’ve given them every chance but I still find them in three year old compost. Maybe our compost doesn’t get hot enough. I line my kitchen compost bin with paper.

I'll have to check how it does. It's cellulose based, I've used similar stuff making traditional Korean arrows but that was basically weather proofing the sinew and hide glue binding that secures the horn nock into the bamboo shaft.
The bin bags are just disgusting.
 
I'll have to check how it does. It's cellulose based, I've used similar stuff making traditional Korean arrows but that was basically weather proofing the sinew and hide glue binding that secures the horn nock into the bamboo shaft.
The bin bags are just disgusting.

Korean Arrow?
 
Yes, Korean traditional arrows are made from bamboo with hand fashioned nock inserts that are secured using hide glue and sinew binding, roughly the last two inches of the arrow. Hide glue is susceptible to moisture so before it cures you cover that area with a cellulose wrap. Apply some black coffee and a little saliva to finish before fletching with hand cut Pheasant feathers.
All good fun, the shafts were cut from bamboo down the bottom of the garden and dried for months before heat straightening, sanding and grading into matching weights (400 grains) and node location.
 
Yes, Korean traditional arrows are made from bamboo with hand fashioned nock inserts that are secured using hide glue and sinew binding, roughly the last two inches of the arrow. Hide glue is susceptible to moisture so before it cures you cover that area with a cellulose wrap. Apply some black coffee and a little saliva to finish before fletching with hand cut Pheasant feathers.
All good fun, the shafts were cut from bamboo down the bottom of the garden and dried for months before heat straightening, sanding and grading into matching weights (400 grains) and node location.

I looked them up as I’d never heard of them. Do you shoot them? ( if that’s the right term)
Steve you are a man of many talents! Illustrator, painter, fletcher and beekeeper. not worthynot worthy
 
You can watch a video of old Masters making them, mine were nice but not a patch on theirs. It's a very long process but well worth it.
I used to shoot a traditional Korean bow using a thumb ring, full draw is to the ear lobe and the shape of these little bows at full draw is frightening. IIRC, my arrows were 34" long.
I made a mistake earlier, I made the nocks from a thin branch of seasoned Holly for these, I used horn for other arrows.
I think I still have them in the attic I know the bow is there, I'll bring one to the convention for you to see.
 
You can watch a video of old Masters making them, mine were nice but not a patch on theirs. It's a very long process but well worth it.
I used to shoot a traditional Korean bow using a thumb ring, full draw is to the ear lobe and the shape of these little bows at full draw is frightening. IIRC, my arrows were 34" long.
I made a mistake earlier, I made the nocks from a thin branch of seasoned Holly for these, I used horn for other arrows.
I think I still have them in the attic I know the bow is there, I'll bring one to the convention for you to see.

Fascinating!.

Curiously, over my lifetime, I have met several Fletchers none of whom did any fletching, several Cooper's who did not make barrels, a Kempster who did not comb wool, many Smiths that were never close to a forge, and numerous other Arkwrights, Millers, Cordwainers, Foresters, Chandler's and Clarks none of whom did anything remotely close to their trade name.

Does anyone have an acquaintance that is still working in anything closely related to their traditional employment?

I used to know a vet who was considered an expert in pig health especially for young piglets and his surname was Suckling. Always made me smile. Seemed a bit macabre!!
 
Beersmith; Does anyone have an acquaintance that is still working in anything closely related to their traditional employment? ![/QUOTE said:
I'm a Mariner and skipper boat trips for my local canal trust but please don't get me anywhere near the sea!!!
 
Fascinating!.

Curiously, over my lifetime, I have met several Fletchers none of whom did any fletching,
Funny thing is, good chance that many of those people's ancestors never fletched an arrow either, due to a linguistic assumption made generations ago - most probably many were descended from 'fleshers' as butchery was a far wider occupation than fletching, many involved with the production of arrows would have been known as arrowsmiths.
many Smiths that were never close to a forge,
...and Smith was just a generic term for craftsman - so their ancestors could have been involved in the production of just about anything.
 
I have sat and viewed the bees many many times over the years and when they come in cold or with a gut full of nectar or loaded with big bags of pollen roughly 70% make into the hive as normal but the other 30% hit the landing board short of the entrance or totally miss the landing board and hit the ground underneath the stand ./QUOTE]

I have observed the exact same. It's why my hives will always have landing boards. They save lives.
And the bunkum that always gets trotted out about space when moving......just measured my landing boards at 6 cm and hives at 45...I'd need a trailer that held at least 8 hives back to back before I could slip an extra hive onto the load. So whilst it may have practical relevance for those moving a few hundred hives around...... for the rest of us mere mortals it's pretty useless advice.
 
Funny thing is, good chance that many of those people's ancestors never fletched an arrow either, due to a linguistic assumption made generations ago - most probably many were descended from 'fleshers' as butchery was a far wider occupation than fletching, many involved with the production of arrows would have been known as arrowsmiths.
...and Smith was just a generic term for craftsman - so their ancestors could have been involved in the production of just about anything.

Good observations.

Why you might even think I sometimes produce a craft beer!!
 
if that landing board was not there probably 30% of them bees would be dead...if they fall short on a tree trunk they can just climb up so a bit different to a beehive on a stand...each to there own but from several years of sat viewing the entrance to a hive i think i will stick with the landing boards just to save a good few bees from dying

As for alighting boards, they are not needed by the bees. Are they on trees for natural colonies, of course not. Bees will happily land on the face of the hive and run down and in.

None of my hives have them now or pretty much ever. I have had the odd one that came with a colony I bought in but they very soon were sawn off as they take up valuable space on the transportation. If the bees are not being moved then no doubt they are interesting but from a practical point of view they are a nuisance.

When I started I was keen for bees to return and I'd rescue any grounded or stuck to the stand and put them back in the entrance. Eventually I thought this may be a waste of time and not a good idea: perhaps it worked against nature. Was the small loss of bees (that to my eyes was unfair or ruthless) positive for the colony? What if it removed weak or old or diseased bees from circulation and so protected the colony? Anyway, at that point I thought it time to interfere less.

Setting that aside, as PH says, from a practical point of view the landing board is a nuisance, not only because its lack saves space in a trailer, but because it saves on work and wood and money and something else to rot or fix when knocked about. I recall some pages back that Beefriendly used Brother Adam's vast landing decks as proof of the value of the board, so I had a poke around Youtube and came across an old Dutch film from the 6os or 70s which revealed more of the story (there's also a photo of Br Adam with Barbara Cartland at 40, Instrumental Insemination in slo-mo at about 34, and a hive inspection at 43 with none of them wearing protection, so plenty to watch over Xmas) but it looks like the hive entrances project about one inch at 2.20 (coincidentally, about the same as the new Abelo poly floor!) and again at 4.40 where they unload them at the heather; the big board is added at 5 but presumably it was a temporary fixture, otherwise it would rot pretty quickly.

There's another good video of Phil Chandler describing the restoration of a genuine Br Adam apiary, with original concrete bases, wooden stands, BBS Dadant and floor with hooks (3.35) for the temporary landing boards. Phil and the Abbey beekeepers (2005) didn't think much of the boards - mouse ramps - but as Br Adam was all about efficiency (6.50) the very good logical reason that BF mentioned (post 114) may be found at 13.30, when Phil describes the strong winds blowing up the hill. Instead of the boards Phil intends to plant a mixed native hedge to help the bees struggle home.
 

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