A task: you buy a 2.0 kg swarm. How many bees you have there

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But you get better price to Sugar. How many fold?

We have cloudberry in North. Its price is 20€/kg. When you add 1:1 sugar to cloudberry, you get 40 fold price to sugar and taste of berries is better.
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Seems that even in a thread about beekeeping, hoppy can't quite get past his heritage. The least he could do is stay on topic.

Well picked up, but then again.
 
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I at least did something to breed bees that don't have to be medicated for varroa. Perhaps you would like to tell us some of your bee related accomplishments. Going bald, having gout, and working at Trump's old ladies tea party pavilion don't count. Do you know what causes gout?

Speaking of counting, maybe you could count the number of bees in a kg and tell finman why a beekeeper should know. How many bees does it take to raise a good quality queen presuming they have to do it all starting from an egg.
 
I at least did something to breed bees that don't have to be medicated for varroa.

Only according to you - you have also stated they produce bugger all honey and swarm all the time - so not really good for anything else apart from counting and weighing.
. Do you know what causes gout?
nope, I wouldn't know as I don't have it, nor alopaecia (have a look in a dictionary - a proper English one)
 
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Seems that even in a thread about beekeeping, hoppy can't quite get past his heritage. The least he could do is stay on topic, or failing that, hang his head and scuff his toe a bit when he says where he is from. JBM suffers from a similar malady, perhaps a result of failing health. Gout does that to a man I hear.

Finman, why is the number of bees per kg so important to you? Does it change the way you manage your bees in any way?

OBVIOUSLY geography was not a subject that Fission Power passes first grade or whatever infants are called in our ex colony!

Nos da
 
A) maybe you could count the number of bees in a kg
B) why a beekeeper should know.
C) How many bees does it take to raise a good quality queen
D) presuming they have to do it all starting from an egg.

A) I have allready counted
B) don't know
C) don't know
D)from egg?
 
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I at least did something to breed bees that don't have to be medicated for varroa. Perhaps you would like to tell us some of your bee related accomplishments. Going bald, having gout, and working at Trump's old ladies tea party pavilion don't count. Do you know what causes gout?

Speaking of counting, maybe you could count the number of bees in a kg and tell finman why a beekeeper should know. How many bees does it take to raise a good quality queen presuming they have to do it all starting from an egg.

I dont see anybody else on your continent singing the praises of your bee breeding achievements (and I do browse beesource )
Seriously well done for having a go, but self congratulatory back patting in an attempted put down of other forumers isn't good quality imho.
 
Time has a habit of resolving questions. Give it another year or two and I think we will find out if my bees are mite tolerant and/or productive. Eight beekeepers have queens, 3 of them have my stock entirely, 5 have between 2 and 5 queens to trial. There are 70 colonies of bees going into winter with queens from my stock.

But on reading your overall comment, I agree. Putdowns don't belong here.
 
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Time has a habit of resolving questions. Give it another year or two and I think we will find out if my bees are mite tolerant and/or productive. Eight beekeepers have queens, 3 of them have my stock entirely, 5 have between 2 and 5 queens to trial. There are 70 colonies of bees going into winter with queens from my stock.

But on reading your overall comment, I agree. Putdowns don't belong here.

Ok, but I do not want your queens even if you pay to me.

I have bought now queens from an apiary which has 1500 hives. Biggest bee breeder on Finland. I buy queens too from others that I can compare.

You colonies are too small to catch 150 kg yields in 3-4 weeks.

And too small bugs to carry heavy loads.

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And too small bugs to carry heavy loads.
Your comment presumes something that is not correct. I was not able to source small cell foundation for the Dadant depth frames. My bees are now on 5.4 mm foundation drawn into combs. This will not be true next year, I've arranged for Dadant to make me some 5.1 mm foundation.

It is worth taking a few minutes to understand bee size and colony dynamics of the hives I am using. The frames are spaced at 31.5 mm center to center. This causes a change in winter cluster structure with a given cluster size covering about 20% to 30% more comb surface. With 35 mm combs, there is room for 3 layers of bees between combs. With 31.5 mm combs, there is only room for 1 or at most 2 layers of bees. Even if the bees pack themselves into empty cells, they still cover more comb surface!

What does this change about wintering? The bees are able to expand the brood nest more rapidly with the queen laying more eggs per brood cycle. The colony reaches peak population in about 8 weeks as compared to 10 to 12 weeks for combs using 35 or 38 mm spacing. Why is this important? First pollen is available here about the 10th of February. Fruit bloom starts about March 25th. By Mar 25th, a colony is near the end of the 2nd cycle of brood rearing whether on narrow or wide spaced frames, but since my combs are on narrow spacing, I have more total bees in the hive. My bees gather more nectar from fruit bloom as a direct result of having narrow frame spacing.

The end of the 3rd brood cycle is usually about 10 weeks after pollen becomes available. With narrow frame spacing, that is cut to 8 weeks. The first brood cycle starts in early February and peak strength occurs about April 10th which is 10 days before the main flow starts. This means my bees have lots of time to prepare for swarming with peak population of bees. I usually split each colony about the 25th of March which gives me 2 colonies going into the spring flow. This prevents swarming and increases the honey crop a bit. Each split gets about 3 frames of brood. The side with the old queen will build back up and produce a normal crop of honey.

What are the advantages of small cell foundation with the above frames? It increases the brood density so that the total number of bees in each brood cycle is more than in 5.4 combs. The effect is small, but useful with about 8 percent more cells in 5.1 combs than in 5.4. Would this be useful in your climate? I don't know, but it is a very useful combination for me.
 
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I use standard 5.3 foundations. Their cost is £3/kg when I give my own wax to the maker.
Number of cells per frame has no meaning. I do not use excluders. Queen can lay as much it can.

The most essential is pastures. I pay attention much to that issue. As I have told, 3 fold yield are usual between sites. Even 5 fold.

I change my queens every year. And they must be good egg machines..
 
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I have debated 10 years with small cell guys. Their have their fairy tales and no research can turn their head. Let them be in peace.


Small cell thing is only a game. Many in Finland has tried it but they have returned at once to normal beekeeping.
 
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I have debated 10 years with small cell guys.
And I have used small cell for 11 years and can tell you what it does... and does not do. I don't use it for any purported effects on varroa. I can show pretty good evidence that it has a small but beneficial effect on spring buildup. That is why I will get combs built from 5.1 mm foundation next year.
 
And I have used small cell for 11 years and can tell you what it does... and does not do. I don't use it for any purported effects on varroa. I can show pretty good evidence that it has a small but beneficial effect on spring buildup. That is why I will get combs built from 5.1 mm foundation next year.

Honey yield tells what is best method.

Small cell has nothing to do with spring build up.
You are only one who tells that it means.

And 5.1 mm is a normal cell size. You told that your bees are 20% smaller than mine.

You have a good imagination.

How big are your hives in summer. How many Lanstroth boxes and mediums?


With pollen patty and with electrict heating I get 3-fold build up in May when willows are blooming.then I can support smaller colonies with emerging brood. I keep electrict heating
2 months in hives.
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Have you used small cell? If so, did you study the effect it has on the bees? I transitioned most of my bees to 4.9 small cell foundation beginning in 2005. I saw the effects of this transfer and studied carefully the response of the bees. I kept several colonies on 5.4 mm combs so I could compare small cell with standard 5.4 combs. What you are doing with heaters and syrup and pollen patties is what I am doing naturally by manipulating the hive, frame, and cell dimensions, i.e. building up the population a few weeks earlier than normal.

Why am I moving to 5.1 instead of 4.9? Because the bees are more amenable to switching back and forth with 5.1. Are bees on 4.9 20% smaller than normal bees raised in 5.3 combs? Yes, they are measurably smaller and I would estimate the difference is about 20%. One of the beekeepers who has several colonies of bees from my stock purchased a couple of colonies from me 5 years ago on small cell. I will see him sometime in the next few days and get a picture.

Post a picture of some of your hives when you get a chance. I'd like to see how you are doing a tin cover. It sounds a lot like what I am doing with sheets of corrugated roofing metal.
 
Seems this thread has gone even further into fantasy island.
No wonder Walt Disney was such a success over there.

I loved that program lol , however what difference does it make what foundation you use, the bees i have make Q cells/Drone cells and Worker cells All on the same lump of gear.
 
I loved that program lol , however what difference does it make what foundation you use.

None at all - the myth of small cells was proven to be a load of tosh years ago

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
 

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