A couple of newbie Insulation questions.

[SafetyThird]

Hi all, I'm in my first year of beekeeping and just getting my 2 hives set up for the winter. I've been feeding syrup and they've taken plenty of it down so I'm getting ready for a final close up of the season soon.

I've been reading about insulating the hives, ventilation and the various options. As I run open mesh floors, I'm leaning towards having a solid crown board (or at least one with a hole covered by a piece of slate) with 100mm of celotex above it, within an empty super, as I have some spare sheets from a building project.

I understand that ventilation from the OMF will be sufficient but do you remove the varoa board from underneath the mesh or leave that in place? If it's left in place, is there sufficient airflow for the required ventilation?

The other question is, how do you then feed any fondant? Should I have a second piece of insulation with a hole cut in it for a box of fondant? Do you then insulate over the top of the fondant box?

Thanks.

 

[B+.]

I understand that ventilation from the OMF will be sufficient but do you remove the varoa board from underneath the mesh or leave that in place? If it's left in place, is there sufficient airflow for the required ventilation?

The purpose of the board is to help you monitor the natural mite drop, which is performed early in the spring (late Feb / early March but depending on when early pollen sources are available in your area).
Personally, I take it out.

 

[alfazer]

You'll get a dozen different answers for this one...

What works for me is the open mesh floor with board left out. But I tried in left in on one hive last year and noticed nothing different. i dont use matchsticks under the crown board at all. I have clear polycarbonate boards and never see anycondensation.

I use either 25 or 50mm or celotex/kingspan above the crownboard, depending on what i have lying around. My fondant feeder is just a clear plastic food container that my chopsuey takeaway was in previously. I cut out a rectangle from the kingspan for the container. All my roofs have 25mm kingspan inside, all year round, so that is in addition to the layer of insulation around the fondant.
So if my roofs are shallow, i use eke or empty super. Deep roofs can hold extra insulation and fondant without eke. Your 100mm celotex is great if it's free, but thicker than you really need.
I do feel that insulation is a particular benefit in late winter/early spring.

 

[Poly Hive]

The original research into ventilated floors and please note this was nothing to do with Varroa but improved wintering... the research proved that bottom ventilation coupled with TOP INSULATION gave better winter success.

Make an eke of your insulation and put your chunk of fondant on the top bars covered with bubble wrap or some such and they will work it just fine.

PH

 

[colinc]

I had slide in boards in under a mesh floor last year and the accumulated mould and damp and debris did a job on them. I have gone to solid floors this winter to see if this works better for me.


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[Erichalfbee]

I had slide in boards in under a mesh floor last year and the accumulated mould and damp and debris did a job on them.

The trouble with that set up is the bees can't get to clean up.
I have my inspection trays a good3 inches below the OMF so I can leave them in but still get good ventilation....just clean them regularly

 

[madasafish]

I had slide in boards in under a mesh floor last year and the accumulated mould and damp and debris did a job on them. I have gone to solid floors this winter to see if this works better for me.


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I have used underfloor entrances with insulation under the slide in boards and that reduces the condensation on the boards.

 

[Jambo]

I'm in my first year too so don't take this as guaranteed overwintering success but it answers your fondant query..

I managed to pick up some second hand supers. A 50mm slab of kingspan half fills a super. For winter, put the super on with the kingspan pushed to the bottom. If you need to add a feeder (big T's English feeder fits) or fondant, flip it upside down so you have a gap. Maximum heat retention year round and you don't need to make trips carting crap back and forth, or storing stuff away from the hives.

 

[Bakerbee]

Hiya we are in our first year too. After lots of reading and advice on here this is my winter set up. Solid bottom board with mouse guard across the opening. Bb no excluder then full super on top. On top of the super i have put a moisture quilt to deal with excess moisture the crown then lid. Around the outside of hive we have cut insulation sheeting to hive dimensions with holes cut at top for water drainage from moisture quilt. I also have two spare fully capped frames in the freezer if and when they need it nearer springtime. Im hoping theres enough balance between ventilation, moisture control and insulation. Fingers crossed we all have happy hives come spring.

 

[Codford]

Alternatively, you could try a poly hive...

 

[SafetyThird]

Thanks everyone, thanks for such helpful replies. From reading all the information here and elsewhere, I think this is what I've decided to do:

I have multiple thicknesses of celotex in the barn so I'll go with 50mm instead of 100, probably make things easier. I'll decide on a container for the fondant and cut a suitable size hole for that and then the cut out section can be used as a plug that fits the hole when no fondant is in.

For now I'll use a super as that's what I have, but will probably build an eke just for the purpose in future.

I'll remove the varroa drop board. I've noticed a certain amount of mould growing on it since I started feeding syrup so probably be good to increase the ventilation in there.

Oh and why not use poly hives? Because I bought cedar ones from a local producer. I decided to start with what every one around me tends to use so that if there are problems or parts needed, I have access to them immediately. I may well try a poly hive as I expand my apiary in years to come and learn more but wanted to start off as standard as possible.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Thanks everyone, thanks for such helpful replies. From reading all the information here and elsewhere, I think this is what I've decided to do:

I have multiple thicknesses of celotex in the barn so I'll go with 50mm instead of 100, probably make things easier. I'll decide on a container for the fondant and cut a suitable size hole for that and then the cut out section can be used as a plug that fits the hole when no fondant is in.

For now I'll use a super as that's what I have, but will probably build an eke just for the purpose in future.

I'll remove the varroa drop board. I've noticed a certain amount of mould growing on it since I started feeding syrup so probably be good to increase the ventilation in there.

Oh and why not use poly hives? Because I bought cedar ones from a local producer. I decided to start with what every one around me tends to use so that if there are problems or parts needed, I have access to them immediately. I may well try a poly hive as I expand my apiary in years to come and learn more but wanted to start off as standard as possible.

Home Bargains sell sandwich containers with lids in packs of five for around a pound. These are ideal for slicing up a block of fondant into and with the lid fitted are good for extended storage.
When required I remove the lid and invert the container over a central hole in the clear crownboard. Sit the sheet of insulation with snug hole on the crownboard to surround the container to stop the crownboard suffering condensation. The "plug" of insulation sits on top of the container until the container is taken off when it fits in the hole as you propose.
Instead of a roof with insulation I have hive cosies which are weatherproof. No need for an eke with my method.

 

[REDWOOD]

Whatever you do just make sure that the top of your hive is the warmest, most insulated part of your hive, if it's not condensation will form there