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why would it produce casts? it has lost its flying bees. first cell should be due to emerge in the next two days at a rough guess even sooner if i am wrong. and they have more space than they had. i fail to see the stimulus to produce a cast. also you can preform an AS on a queen cell or a...

with whats left of the swarmed hive. best for honey would be knock down surplus queen cells to one picked one.(books say use an opened one. it costs you a few days but its worth doing in your case as there are a good few. pick one that isnt on a drone frame if you can. less chance of it being a...

hi all. Im the guy who supplied the nucs. today i looked through the two hives. both are coming along well and both are very strong for the amount of boxes given to them (single brood each one with a super). one swarmed 3-4 days ago at a guess. this is based on lack of queen eggs or any larvae...

turn the crownboard upside down on the floor with the porter holes open. place the empty super on this then the brood box above that. that way the cluster should move up over time. keep culling comb that has just honey from the wild stuff to force them up. alternativly remove the comb all...

i like using chipped straw. can be got from most coop and animal shops. stays cool for 20 mins and then can be fed and tamed down for another 10-15 mins or so at close to full work. if its just a puff here and there its much longer lasting. a scrap of toilet paper to start it works a treat aswell.

came across this today. http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-news-from-elsewhere-27283519

was grinding beside mine 2 weeks ago. less than 20 ft from the entrance no problem last week i was grinding again and they didnt like it and paid me a visit. it was only a small grinder tho.

milking gloves and throw them away. cuts down on one vector for disease aswell.

makes it easier to see the queen.

my bad sorry

are you planing on using the rose method aswell? I picked poly nationals for myself and run something similar to the rose idea without breaking the brood nest. They get heavy tho. If just for general beekeping id use national or possibly even 12*14 Unless you have a bad back then defo...

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=23470

Almost exactly what i am doing. I tend to try a tilt aswell for queen cells and only look at about 3-5 frames with brood in usualy until i see growth/expansion and eggs. If its for herself i look for freshly drawn frames as she seems to love being on them. if she is not on these then its just...

never got the hang of holding her like that. the plunger cage with wide spaced strings is the tool for me for a while. nice photos tho. and a grand queen.

ill post one to ya dont make me do it/.

proberly right.

hi just a quick question. i came across a hive recently which have some yellow/orangy stuff in the cell with the larvae. i removed a few larvae and it had stained the larvaes skin. otherwise everything looked fine ie regular bands of same aged larvae c shape in base of cell well segmented...

just checked you are quite correct. altho it was the same on the old box. im suprised i have not had more problems so far now that i see that. i certainly do crush to many bees on the mating surfaces but i had never considered the ones on the frame lug tops. ill have a look when next going...

ohhh. thats on new design. must check that out i have one of them here. supose i should have got two really to check stuff before ordering loads. i wouldnt mind i spent the evening tec7'ing on ekes to my new feeders(old design dont think its changed tho)

nope be space between boxes is fine. its just the wide meeting faces that causes hassle