Swienty Poly Nationals - design change

[newportbuzz]

With the runners in? I slotted the runners in place then noticed the flush all round bottom edge of the box. Sitting that on top of the first box there is no bee space at all, the wide 45mm side wall sits on top of the frame lugs. Not an issue if the runners are pulled out and hive converted to TBS.

ohhh. thats on new design. must check that out i have one of them here. supose i should have got two really to check stuff before ordering loads.

i wouldnt mind i spent the evening tec7'ing on ekes to my new feeders(old design dont think its changed tho)

 

[newportbuzz]

With the runners in? I slotted the runners in place then noticed the flush all round bottom edge of the box. Sitting that on top of the first box there is no bee space at all, the wide 45mm side wall sits on top of the frame lugs. Not an issue if the runners are pulled out and hive converted to TBS.

just checked you are quite correct. altho it was the same on the old box. im suprised i have not had more problems so far now that i see that. i certainly do crush to many bees on the mating surfaces but i had never considered the ones on the frame lug tops. ill have a look when next going through stuff see if i can spot hassle.

TBS might be the way to go as much as i hate the idea.

 

[Alabamaeee]

Have emailed Swienty re the overlapping frames problem , but not heard anything back yet.

Estimated that they are 2mm out on each side which allows the frames to overlap as I noted earlier in the thread.

Need to find a 2mm plastic or aluminium strip to fit on each of the side walls where the logs rest.

 

[Bates]

Is it really an issue? If you space and position your frames correctly then it is not an issue. We have 45 of these and I cant note any existing problems.

 

[Alabamaeee]

I think it will be when they get propolised a bit because they will then be liable to go sideways as you push the frames back to get your dummy frame in at the end of the inspection.

I felt it right to inform them so that they can take a look at it and in the future do something about it. 2mm either side would prevent this happening, at the moment they have about 4.5 mm each side.

I assume you are using the very latest Swienty design?

 

[Bates]

It depends how you move your frames, I personally never slide them all as one. The frames are put back 1 by 1 evenly spaced throughout without the use of a dummy board.

Yes all latest design.

 

[Alabamaeee]

Everybody's got their own way of doing things I suppose I could of course move all the frames one by one as inspected towards the dummy board end and then put the dummy in the other end when finished.

BTW I am trying out thin polycarbonate sheet covers similar to the paynes type, and it's a lot easier to remove without lifting frames.

Will be adding a proper mouse guard at the end of the season as the little landing ramp on the floor is perfect place for a mouse to rest when chewing at the entrance!

 

[Bates]

BTW I am trying out thin polycarbonate sheet covers similar to the paynes type, and it's a lot easier to remove without lifting frames.

Was considering this just I prefer bees to have some top space too, the Paynes nucs have top space so the sheets not so bad just Swienty boxes the frames are flush. Maybe just personal preference.

 

[Swarm]

Where did you buy your frames, Alabamaee? I tried sliding abutting frames but they did not move far enough to allow the spacers to fit side on, it sounds like your top bars are a little short. I have to agree with Bates here, frame alignment is really down to the beekeeper and it is important to maintain beespace on each side of the frame sidebars. I'll slide a couple of frames together but I always put an inspected frame back so the arrow is in the centre of the one before, if you know what I mean.

I was going to cut a couple of the paynes clear crown 'sheets' to see how they do for the swienty. I make my own floors with a 7mm under floor entrance so no worry with mice. The roof will be DIY as well.

I have to be honest, it's a bit misleading to claim these are anything other than top bee space. Forget the runners, they would only make matters worse and I can't for the life of me understand how a very obvious design flaw has been overlooked by a company of their acclaim. Just sell them as TBS.
That being said, they are such a neat package, I love them. Any new hives will be swienty ones.

Anyone else noticed that 11 Hoffmans won't fit?

 

[mbc]

Maybe just personal preference.

And its quicker to put everything back together without squishing bees.

 

[Alabamaeee]

Where did you buy your frames, Alabamaee? I tried sliding abutting frames but they did not move far enough to allow the spacers to fit side on, it sounds like your top bars are a little short.

Top bars measure pretty much as the standard - 431-432 mm.

I was going to cut a couple of the paynes clear crown 'sheets' to see how they do for the swienty. I make my own floors with a 7mm under floor entrance so no worry with mice. The roof will be DIY as well.

I will eventually make up 6 mm polycarbonate cover boards. Bates - you could make up polycarbonate cover boards with a batten around then to give a beespace like the T's cover boards have on one side.

That being said, they are such a neat package, I love them. Any new hives will be swienty ones.

I agree, they are the best poly I have seen in 14x12 so far but I do still think they should adhere to the British National dimensions internally

 

[Roola]

Quick question on the swientys. Bought a few of these and love how easy they are to assemble. I'm not happy about the roof sitting directly onto frames and have already crushed some bees through this. Do the roofs fit over the top of a standard crown board as can then put in a framed one like on my wooden hives and avoid the bee crush and bees propolising frames to the roof.