Wood burning stove for garage

[Bryang]

As title... I'm looking for a reasonable priced wood burning stove for my garage/workshop to replace a pot bellied stove that is leaking fumes. I stripped it down and resealed the joints 2 months ago but failed to cure the problem.. The garage is single skinned, concrete blocks... It's dimensions are L... 9 Mtrs x W... 3.25 mtrs... H.... 3.25 mtrs.. It is uninsulated... Because it has a damp problem I was thinking of getting a cast iron stove again, but I can't find a large one suitable for the job... Any ideas/suggestions..

 

[Gilberdyke John]

As title... I'm looking for a reasonable priced wood burning stove for my garage/workshop to replace a pot bellied stove that is leaking fumes. I stripped it down and resealed the joints 2 months ago but failed to cure the problem.. The garage is single skinned, concrete blocks... It's dimensions are L... 9 Mtrs x W... 3.25 mtrs... H.... 3.25 mtrs.. It is uninsulated... Because it has a damp problem I was thinking of getting a cast iron stove again, but I can't find a large one suitable for the job... Any ideas/suggestions..

I'm intrigued by your statement that you stripped it down and resealed the joints. Exactly what did you use to seal the joints? There are a number of pliable/flexible suitable materials which I have used for similar tasks.

 

[Bryang]

I'm intrigued by your statement that you stripped it down and resealed the joints. Exactly what did you use to seal the joints? There are a number of pliable/flexible suitable materials which I have used for similar tasks.

Fire cement that was recommended by the supplier of the stove. because of the dampness in the garage the cement stuff turns into a powder . I tried to use the rope type sealer but couldn't get a good seal because of the design of the stove...

 

[JamezF]

Fire cement that was recommended by the supplier of the stove. because of the dampness in the garage the cement stuff turns into a powder . I tried to use the rope type sealer but couldn't get a good seal because of the design of the stove...

We used some silicone-based stuff on ours this year. At least I think it was silicone-based. I'll go and have a look to see if the tube is still in the workshop in a moment. It seems to do a very good job.

James

 

[JamezF]

This is the stuff:

Heat Resistant Silicone | Fire & Stove Sundries | Everbuild

James

 

[Bryang]

This is the stuff:

Heat Resistant Silicone | Fire & Stove Sundries | Everbuild

James

Thank for the reply James... Tried it, had to re-do the joints after approx 3 months. contacted supplier and they said I was over heating the stuff.. They suggested using fire cement. So I'm looking for a better design stove... I have to be careful around stoves... If they leak fumes I cant smell it,, I have zero sense of smell and very little taste after throat surgery for cancer, I breath thru a hole in my neck. The stove leaked during the cold spell, I was unaware, and I am still struggling with the after effects..

 

[JamezF]

Replacement looks sensible then.

James

 

[Sutty]

Get a carbon monoxide alarm whatever you do!
Solid fuel burners are the most common cause of carbon monoxide poisoning.

 

[Beesnaturally]

This is the stuff:

Heat Resistant Silicone | Fire & Stove Sundries | Everbuild

James

Is 275 Deg C. Enough for a woodstove? Just curious really.

 

[Beesnaturally]

Do you have a large and high enough chimney? A good draw generally keeps air moving into the stove rather than out.
Another thing is burning it hot. That keeps the chimney warm and functioning well, and you get a better burn and sweeter smelling fumes. Stoves set to sulk will often puff tarry smoke at you. I drilled a 3/4" hole halfway up the side of mine to encourage top burning. It has a 3m high 5" external single-wall flue that doesn't have any joints sealed and barely passes the rooftop, but I've yet to see flame or smoke puff out of that hole or anywhere else.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Fire cement that was recommended by the supplier of the stove. because of the dampness in the garage the cement stuff turns into a powder . I tried to use the rope type sealer but couldn't get a good seal because of the design of the stove...

If the metal faces have reasonable face width I would have suggested fibreglass rope bonded in place with a high temperature adhesive such as used on combustion chambers of forced draught air heaters. As to the fumes leaking out this suggests to me a lack of suction or "draught" in the flue or chimney. Chimney location and performance is critical to all stoves and I wouldn't like to diagnose from afar but a draught gauge was a standard item of Fyrite/Briggon kit for oil boiler service engineers before electronic combustion analysers became the norm. It might be a good idea to check out the flue draught before going for a new boiler as if you use the same chimney the problem might still not be cured.

 

[roche]

And don't forget sufficient air ingress into the room to allow the draught to develop...

 

[rossbyjove]

As title... I'm looking for a reasonable priced wood burning stove for my garage/workshop to replace a pot bellied stove that is leaking fumes. I stripped it down and resealed the joints 2 months ago but failed to cure the problem.. The garage is single skinned, concrete blocks... It's dimensions are L... 9 Mtrs x W... 3.25 mtrs... H.... 3.25 mtrs.. It is uninsulated... Because it has a damp problem I was thinking of getting a cast iron stove again, but I can't find a large one suitable for the job... Any ideas/suggestions..

You may find someone who makes wood burners out of old gas bottles.
I bought one many years ago to put in my Yurt for 50 quid and it lasted about 20 years.

 

[Murox]

As title... I'm looking for a reasonable priced wood burning stove for my garage/workshop to replace a pot bellied stove that is leaking fumes. I stripped it down and resealed the joints 2 months ago but failed to cure the problem.. The garage is single skinned, concrete blocks... It's dimensions are L... 9 Mtrs x W... 3.25 mtrs... H.... 3.25 mtrs.. It is uninsulated... Because it has a damp problem I was thinking of getting a cast iron stove again, but I can't find a large one suitable for the job... Any ideas/suggestions..

Have a look at the older style Jotul 602 and the Jotul 118, you can find them secondhand at reasonable prices and a bit of surface rust wont matter much as its going in your garage. The shape works well for longer stuff like pallet planks etc.

 

[Bryang]

If the metal faces have reasonable face width I would have suggested fibreglass rope bonded in place with a high temperature adhesive such as used on combustion chambers of forced draught air heaters. As to the fumes leaking out this suggests to me a lack of suction or "draught" in the flue or chimney. Chimney location and performance is critical to all stoves and I wouldn't like to diagnose from afar but a draught gauge was a standard item of Fyrite/Briggon kit for oil boiler service engineers before electronic combustion analysers became the norm. It might be a good idea to check out the flue draught before going for a new boiler as if you use the same chimney the problem might still not be cured.

Thank you Gilberdyke John for the advice.... There is plenty of ventilation into the garage, the main doors have a gap underneath them... You may have hit a part of the problem on the head re the chimney. Half the "rise" of the chimney is inside the garage. The outside part rises approx 3 ft above the (rear) roof line, there is a 2 ft drop from the front of the garage.. So possibly when the wind is blowing from the front to the rear of the garage there is a down draught around the chimney... So I will be increasing the height of the chimney. Thanks again.... Also thanks to all who have posted replies.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Thank you Gilberdyke John for the advice.... There is plenty of ventilation into the garage, the main doors have a gap underneath them... You may have hit a part of the problem on the head re the chimney. Half the "rise" of the chimney is inside the garage. The outside part rises approx 3 ft above the (rear) roof line, there is a 2 ft drop from the front of the garage.. So possibly when the wind is blowing from the front to the rear of the garage there is a down draught around the chimney... So I will be increasing the height of the chimney. Thanks again.... Also thanks to all who have posted replies.

I don't have my old handbooks but this might be something which will be helpful regarding height of flue along with distances to adjacent structures Chimneys and flues: Don't forget the neighbours! | LABC.
The height of the main roof ridgeline is important but big trees etc also have influence on down draughts. It was considered a big tree within 30 metres was a potential problem. Problems sometimes arose as the tree(s) in question grew.
Many manufacturers sell "guaranteed" anti down draught cowls but they very rarely worked as marketed. The ONLY cowl we found really worked most times was the O-H (not a standard H). It was also essential to use insulated flue pipe above the first metre or so from the boiler or stove where heat loss into the room was useful without cooling the flue gases excessively.

 

[Just]

I can recommend a morso 1442it's the closest model to one a family member has on narrow boat. Efficient and fairly compact with good air flow controls for increasing and decreasing the heat output.

 

[Bryang]

I can recommend a morso 1442it's the closest model to one a family member has on narrow boat. Efficient and fairly compact with good air flow controls for increasing and decreasing the heat output.

Thanks for the reply ... But at that price (£1,400) it is way over my budget..

 

[Pembroke]

It really depends on the size of the space you need to heat. If it's an average one car garage then a canal boat stove would be worth looking at there's lots available.

If you really want cheap there's this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/NJ-rolled-...-Camping/dp/B08T621K7K/ref=asc_df_B08T621K7K? for use in a tent. Then add a fan to distribute the heat around the space https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tiontep-Bu...ly-Circulation/dp/B0BPXX7TJD/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?

Note: I'm just using Amazon links as they are the easiest to find. There are other outlets available if you want to avoid shopping there.

If you want some advice on the subject from a professional company PM me as one of our associations members works for a log burner / chimney company and may be able to point you in the right direction (located in South West Wales).

 

[Hedgerow Honey]

My old workshop was 24ft x 22ft with a ceiling height of 12ft. I built a log burner from a 47kg gas bottle and it was too much on times, I did have a wood stove fan sat on top which really helped distribute the heat.