Winter insulation

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The ****** poly nucs overwinter just fine, without the need for any extra insulation.
Also there is no problem with condensation, just try it you will see !
 
"Also there is no problem with condensation, just try it you will see !"

not my experience - but then most of my bees experience winters probably slightly more extreme than most on here!!!! (3.5m total last winter - 2 ft or so every fortnight; pic is from the 1.5m single fall year before - 6ft drift outside front door)
 
"Also there is no problem with condensation, just try it you will see !"

not my experience - but then most of my bees experience winters probably slightly more extreme than most on here!!!! (3.5m total last winter - 2 ft or so every fortnight; pic is from the 1.5m single fall year before - 6ft drift outside front door)

1.5m of insulation - luxury
 
So when is everyone considering applying their insulation.
I now use only polystyrene hives, so they're well insulated all year round. Insulation keeps the inside of the hive an even temperature, which makes it easier for the bees.

But, if you're going to add some, get a slab of either kingspan block insulation or tape some thick lumps of polystyrene together and put it above the crown board.

I have loads of fleece,could I use that for insulation?Possibly in a cotton pillowcase/hessian sack?
No reason why you can't use it, I've used a 99p space blanket in the past.

As it'll be going above the crown board you'd probably be better putting the fleece inside a large plastic bag rather than a pillowcase or hessian. Fabric can absorb atmospheric moisture and go mouldy.
 
I have loads of fleece,could I use that for insulation?Possibly in a cotton pillowcase/hessian sack?

If there's a choice I'd avoid anything that could rot/mould.
You'd need to vapour seal underneath it at minimum.

Simple and straightforward is to get a 450x1200x50mm Celotex board from Wickes for about £6. It cuts easily with a breadknife.
As insulation, it is about as insulating as you can get (thickness for thickness) without going to aerospace materials ...
 
Now I'm just confused. Sorry. Rapid feeder. Holes, to align with crownboard if in place. Lift feeder 100mm or whatever on a block of Celotex, the bees have to have tunnels up to the feeder holes. How can they not have access. Sorry to be stupid, but I have struggled with this design for ages-even tried raising it here.
 
Mine is on all the time.
I even have custom made Celotex with rapid feeder cut outs.

Erica: just in a few words, could you describe a bit more. I am seeing vertical passages in the Celotex, what, lined with foil tape? Is that it?

Possibly the same as mine.

Cut a slab of insulation to the same footprint as the brood box.
Draw around the feeder, or the container you will be using for fondant.
Use a sharp knife or a saw to cut the marked line.
Push out piece of insulation and keep it safe.
Put feeder in the space - which will be placed above the hole in feeder board.
Put another slab of insulation over the top, then the roof.

There's no need to tape the cut edges, because the bees can't get at the insulation.

The cut-out piece can be replaced once feeding is finished.
 
Now I'm just confused. Sorry. Rapid feeder. Holes, to align with crownboard if in place. Lift feeder 100mm or whatever on a block of Celotex, the bees have to have tunnels up to the feeder holes. How can they not have access. Sorry to be stupid, but I have struggled with this design for ages-even tried raising it here.

Much simpler.
Cut two rectangle to fit inside super (or square if using an eke).
In one of them, cut a circular hole to take the rapid feeder when it is in position over its hole.

Put feeder board on hive.
Put feeder over hole.
(Fill feeder)
Place super/eke.
Insert celotex with cut out, fitting it around the feeder.
Insert second celotex piece over feeder and layer one.


In a wooden hive, it may keep the bees warmer, but particularly it will keep the syrup warmer - which means the bees will take it later ...


/// slow typing, cross-post. I'll leave it though for the odd extra point.
 
Piece of celotex/recticel/kingspan...whatver... cut square to sit on top of feeder board and inside a super.
Now. Measure the centre and mark round the top of the feeder which is the widest part. (not the lid because that sits above the insulation)
Cut this out.
Put the feeder over the central feeding hole.....Fill.
Lower the cut out insulation over the feeder. Thus the area around the feeder board not covered by the feeder is now insulated and the feeder sits a little proud of the top so you can lift the lid to replenish without moving the insulation.
If you want you can add another square on top as there is room in the super.
I am presuming one of those white rapid feeders with a cone in the middle.
If this doesn't help I'll do some pictures :)

Blast......you've all explained it. Should have read the rest of the thread
 
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Haha. Sorry: I've created chaos... While I have you, how do you get the bees back down when you take the feeder off: sort of use the cutout insulation you are returning as a piston? I've seen someone else describing that problem here as the "plastic card shuffle"...
 
Haha. Sorry: I've created chaos... While I have you, how do you get the bees back down when you take the feeder off: sort of use the cutout insulation you are returning as a piston? I've seen someone else describing that problem here as the "plastic card shuffle"...

Smoke
 
Haha. Sorry: I've created chaos... While I have you, how do you get the bees back down when you take the feeder off: sort of use the cutout insulation you are returning as a piston? I've seen someone else describing that problem here as the "plastic card shuffle"...

Don't take it off to refill it.
Only remove the feeder lid, and pour carefully from something that will let you do it without spilling.

When you are finished feeding that hive, remove the central clear(ish) cone (but then replace the lid) to let the bees clean out the whole thing.
After they have done that, replace the feeder board with your no-hole crownboard - just as you might when removing and replacing a crownboard during normal inspection. Yes, use smoke if you do normally.

Then put back the insulation ...
 

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