Winter Feeding Question

[Bluester]

Hi Everyone

I have 3 hives, all are queen right, all have stores in the brood boxs but havent been suppered as they were not strong enough off the back off some re-queening (long story).

I want to give them fondant over the winter just to be safe and want to place them directly on the frames using an eke with a crown board etc on top.

My only concern is the space around the fondant in the eke, the eke itself is only just over an inch in height so that doesnt worry me, just the space surrounding the food itself.

Am i being paranoid, I know people use deeper crown boards to feed their bees over winter but i would rather put the fondant directly on the frames.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Henry

 

[Erichalfbee]

Roll the fondant out to fill the eke. They will be fine. Be quick in spring or they’ll fill the eke with comb.

 

[Ian123]

I simply line up a whole in the crown board with the biggest part of the cluster wrap a lump in cling film and stick the roof on. Really doesn’t need to be any more complicated. If later the cluster moves or there looking perilously light I’ll adjust cb or add an eke/super but it’s very rarely necessary.

 

[BugsInABox]

cb?

 

[Nige.Coll]

If you put fondant directly on the top bars it can run down between the frames, you can lay it on a queen excluder or put it over the feeder hole in the crownboard. I put it above the crownboard and periodically check to see where the cluster is, if it's to one side turn the crownboard so it is above the cluster.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I put fondant straight on the top bars but on a piece of baking parchment.
Everybody is getting some Ultrabee that way in the next couple of days as it looks like the ivy will be rained off again this year

 

[Angry_Mob]

cb?

Crown board.

 

[The Poot in Somerset]

I use transparent food tubs which take almost 3 lbs of fondant and put it over the crown board feeding hole.
It’s a compromise as I don’t have polycarbonate crown boards. I can see how much is left or gone without losing hive warmth. Worked well for me thus far.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I use transparent food tubs which take almost 3 lbs of fondant and put it over the crown board feeding hole.
It’s a compromise as I don’t have polycarbonate crown boards. I can see how much is left or gone without losing hive warmth. Worked well for me thus far.

What I do when I need to pop some on a light hive.
The issue when bees can't get to the fondant occurs when the colony is so small that it cannot get to the feed hole, but in that case the colony is probably doomed anyway, however much you cosset it.

 

[richard_skinner]

I’m very new to beekeeping but I’ve been looking at the Vivaldi Board (YouTube) which seem to be a good way to go for both extra feeding and ventilation for winter. Has anyone used one before or planning on using on?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I’m very new to beekeeping but I’ve been looking at the Vivaldi Board (YouTube) which seem to be a good way to go for both extra feeding and ventilation for winter. Has anyone used one before or planning on using on?

Erm - ventilation? none needed (definitely) and no top entrance either

 

[Erichalfbee]

I’m very new to beekeeping but I’ve been looking at the Vivaldi Board (YouTube) which seem to be a good way to go for both extra feeding and ventilation for winter. Has anyone used one before or planning on using on?

They are very popular in The USA. You could maybe ask on Beesource but somebody from there on this forum might chip in a little later in the day. I’m not convinced there’s any point as bees don’t need top ventilation. A better solution for over wintering is to put on top insulation and there is no moisture to vent.

 

[Swarm]

Nice idea if those slots weren't in the sides, 50mm PIR would fit a treat.

 

[richard_skinner]

Erm - ventilation? none needed (definitely) and no top entrance either

Do you just recommended a vent bottom board and standard front entrance either reduced or with mouse guard?. I guess I’m a little worried as all my reading has stated that moisture/condensation dripping onto the bees and them freezing is the biggest killer other than varroa of course.

 

[richard_skinner]

They are very popular in The USA. You could maybe ask on Beesource but somebody from there on this forum might chip in a little later in the day. I’m not convinced there’s any point as bees don’t need top ventilation. A better solution for over wintering is to put on top insulation and there is no moisture to vent.

I find there are

Nice idea if those slots weren't in the sides, 50mm PIR would fit a treat.

I will have a look at that and maybe miss out the slots but kept the feed area. As it would be easy to change without opening the hive fully.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Do you just recommended a vent bottom board and standard front entrance either reduced or with mouse guard?. I guess I’m a little worried as all my reading has stated that moisture/condensation dripping onto the bees and them freezing is the biggest killer other than varroa of course.

Yes plus 50mm of foil backed insulation on top. It keeps the crownboard warm so you get no condensation

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I guess I’m a little worried as all my reading has stated that moisture/condensation dripping onto the bees and them freezing is the biggest killer

You need to be a little more selective in your reading you've just been fed one of the biggest myths in beekeeping.
Have no open holes in your crownboards, no vents in your roof, but instead stick a piece of 50mm celotext permanently in the whole roof space. Because your crownboard is not cold, it won't get condensation. Any condensation will settle on the colder walls and run down the side walls and out of the OMF

 

[richard_skinner]

You need to be a little more selective in your reading you've just been fed one of the biggest myths in beekeeping.
Have no open holes in your crownboards, no vents in your roof, but instead stick a piece of 50mm celotext permanently in the whole roof space. Because your crownboard is not cold, it won't get condensation. Any condensation will settle on the colder walls and run down the side walls and out of the OMF

That’s great thanks. I have found there is a lot of opinions and well meaning advise so at times it becomes a bit of a mine field.

 

[Heather]

Please ..NO queen excluder in a hive now.. Cleaned and stored.
Crown board on top of frames, and a pack of fondant (well insulated to stop it drying ) on hole in crown board over where the bees are. other hole covered (I use a tile)
If bees to one side, adjust crown board position. In a month check if they have used it. If not, gently lift crown board to reassess position of bees. There isn't a problem in winter to open hive quickly to see if bees have moved on the frames. Just be aware of their situation within the hive. Insulate above the crown board as our Welsh friend soundly advises.

 

[The Poot]

Please ..NO queen excluder in a hive now.. Cleaned and stored.
Crown board on top of frames, and a pack of fondant (well insulated to stop it drying ) on hole in crown board over where the bees are. other hole covered (I use a tile)
If bees to one side, adjust crown board position. In a month check if they have used it. If not, gently lift crown board to reassess position of bees. There isn't a problem in winter to open hive quickly to see if bees have moved on the frames. Just be aware of their situation within the hive. Insulate above the crown board as our Welsh friend soundly advises.

If you keep the inspection trays in place, you can see the position of the cluster without having to remove the crown board.
Some folk, me included, give the bees a fully open entrance, protected by a mouse guard, whilst leaving the varroa tray in place to reduce draught. Sufficient ventilation less icy blasts.