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- Sep 4, 2011
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- 5,967
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You could make those clearers deeper?
I put a new super underneath when I put them on, so I've never found the need.
James
You could make those clearers deeper?
but there will come a time when you may not have that luxury
If you remove the supers and stack them on the boards you won't have to worry either way.
Clearer boards completed.
Hopefully I now have enough to cope with whatever happens next year.
Now, what's next?
James
They look very neat with those rabbeted joints at the corners, have you let the ply base in or just nailed through the sides ? Based on what I have seen and read from you I am absolutely certain that you will be organised and have a plan with built in contingency. As for Bash together, naaahUnfortunately that's not an option I have at one of my sites, otherwise I'd be tempted.
James
I’m a real convert to this method. It’s so simple.If you remove the supers and stack them on the boards you won't have to worry either way.
They look very neat with those rabbeted joints at the corners, have you let the ply base in or just nailed through the sides ? Based on what I have seen and read from you I am absolutely certain that you will be organised and have a plan with built in contingency. As for Bash together, naaah
From experience .. the important bit of the router table is the router table insert and you want one that allows you to adjust the rise and fall of the router from above the table, it is very frustrating having to take the insert out to have to adjust the depth of cut or change the cutter in the router. I got it wrong - bought a cheap insert and regretted it ever since !I have a nice piece of scrap 25mm hardwood ply that I'll use to make a new router table once I can find a suitably-priced router to fit into it.
James
From experience .. the important bit of the router table is the router table insert and you want one that allows you to adjust the rise and fall of the router from above the table, it is very frustrating having to take the insert out to have to adjust the depth of cut or change the cutter in the router. I got it wrong - bought a cheap insert and regretted it ever since !
I do the same on any short run jobs, quicker than set up time and much easier to fine adjust for variable thickness. As for above table, router tables with that facility are mostly more expensive than a similarly featured router. Problem is there are very few with that feature when I was looking a couple of years ago. I plumped for a Triton that has the hex key handle, that Pargyle has mentioned, for adjusting. It is a beast of a tool and perfect for a table setup. The only other I found was a Milwaukee that was only available in the USThe ply is let into the sides by about 5mm. I probably should have used a router to cut the grooves, but our router table is a cheap one that my father-in-law bought years ago and it doesn't work as well as I'd like so I cut them using the table saw instead, moving the fence along by the width of the kerf until the groove was wide enough. Bit nasty, but it gets the job done.
I have a nice piece of scrap 25mm hardwood ply that I'll use to make a new router table once I can find a suitably-priced router to fit into it.
James
I have a Katsu compact router it's a Makita look alike but has been very reliable ( I use it mounted hoizontally for decorative routing on my woodturnings) but I;ve just found this on ebay ...Yes, the current one is a lot of faff to change the cutter or the router depth which is partially why I find it such a pain to use. I've seen a design somewhere that had a hex key adjuster in the table for raising and lowering the router which looked so much neater, but pretty much anything that doesn't require stuff to be dismantled has to be a step forward.
James
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