Feeding in October

[Will C]

Fair enough. No match sticks no.

 

[Will C]

Thank you. I shall do this .

 

[ericbeaumont]

3 queens swarmed since spring. They were requeened in July

Quite a small colony, then. If the stronger fills one BB, does the smaller? If not, reduce it to a 6f poly nuc.

told not to last year as risk of condensation was too big, so we didn’t.

Challenge what you are told if it doesn't add up: condensation will form on the warmer underside of a CB as the upper face is colder because the roof is ventilated.

When the upper face of the CB is insulated and the roof sealed, the temps on both sides are equable and condensation will not form and drip on the nest, an event which is Very Bad for Bees.

https://www.northernbeebooks.co.uk/products/beekeeping-challenge-what-you-are-told-patterson/

 

[Will C]

Quite a small colony, then. If the stronger fills one BB, does the smaller? If not, reduce it to a 6f poly nuc.


Challenge what you are told if it doesn't add up: condensation will form on the warmer underside of a CB as the upper face is colder because the roof is ventilated.

When the upper face of the CB is insulated and the roof sealed, the temps on both sides are equable and condensation will not form and drip on the nest, an event which is Very Bad for Bees.

https://www.northernbeebooks.co.uk/products/beekeeping-challenge-what-you-are-told-patterson/

I’ll put some in this week. Can I ask about varroa? We haven’t treated this year as our mentor didn’t come after July. On inspection last week there is a small amount but not too heavy at all. Should I treat now or use OA in winter?

 

[ericbeaumont]

ask about varroa? We haven’t treated this year as our mentor didn’t come after July

Time for blunt advice, Will: the sooner you cut loose and make your own decisions and mistakes, the faster you will learn.

inspection last week there is a small amount but not too heavy at all

Majority of varroa will be inside sealed brood cells; in the absence of brood the mites will be on the bees. How did you establish the level of infection? With your level of experience you will not be in a position to judge.

The inspection board is an inaccurate method to estimate infection; a sugar roll is better. I do neither, but know that varroa is in hives and treat.

Your options are limited at this time of year: fumigants such as ApilifeVar or Apiguard rely on temps of 15C+. Two strips of Apivar will sort the colony; seal the bag and use the rest next year.

treat now or use OA in winter?

Winter bees will have been produced by now and if varroa levels were high in late summer then viability of those bees is compromised. Treat now to have a chance of reducing risk of colony loss; OA in winter will be too little, too late.

 

[Will C]

Time for blunt advice, Will: the sooner you cut loose and make your own decisions and mistakes, the faster you will learn.


Majority of varroa will be inside sealed brood cells; in the absence of brood the mites will be on the bees. How did you establish the level of infection? With your level of experience you will not be in a position to judge.

The inspection board is an inaccurate method to estimate infection; a sugar roll is better. I do neither, but know that varroa is in hives and treat.

Your options are limited at this time of year: fumigants such as ApilifeVar or Apiguard rely on temps of 15C+. Two strips of Apivar will sort the colony; seal the bag and use the rest next year.


Winter bees will have been produced by now and if varroa levels were high in late summer then viability of those bees is compromised. Treat now to have a chance of reducing risk of colony loss; OA in winter will be too little, too late.

Opened cells and inspected larvae and only one or two on a selection. No evidence on backs of bees. No varroa boards in at moment. I’m grateful for advice as I’m now realising we’ve basically been left in the ****. I’m confident and quick to learn but need good advice. I shall get apivar and place this week.

 

[Erichalfbee]

No evidence on backs of bees.

By the time you spit this the colony load us huge and the bees are in trouble.

 

[Will C]

By the time you spit this the colony load is huge and the bees are in trouble.

 

[Will C]

So apivar this week?

 

[Erichalfbee]

So apivar this week?

Yes. Take the strips out in 6 weeks.

 

[ericbeaumont]

No evidence on backs of bees

Good, because if you get to that stage the colony is doomed.

been left in the ****

You may know the reason and it may be genuine, but someone should have picked up the association commitment to guide you. Sounds to me that you will do a better job on your own.

 

[Will C]

Good, because if you get to that stage the colony is doomed.


You may know the reason and it may be genuine, but someone should have picked up the association commitment to guide you. Sounds to me that you will do a better job on your own.

I think as long as I keep being well advised here then I should be fine. I will put in some insulation this week. I have clear Perspex CB so I can see in winter to put in. I’ll add the varroa treatment and fingers crossed they should be ok.
Thanks to everyone for all the advice.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I think as long as I keep being well advised here then I should be fine

There is a useful thread running here https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threads/wintering-bees-in-the-u-k.57585/#post-918855

 

[Will C]

There is a useful thread running here https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threads/wintering-bees-in-the-u-k.57585/#post-918855

This is very useful. Thanks

 

[Penninetrader]

not really, if it was done earlier (at least a month and a half ago) they would have had a chance to rearrange all the stores which you have just messed about, although that is a big ask with a whole super full. Doing it at this time of the year is just going to end up with the stores being split with a little above and around the cluster, with this setup, there is always the danger of isolation starvation if we get hit with a really cold snap just when the cluster is clearing up the last of the top stores, and they are then unable to make the long trek to the nadired shallow.

That's rubbish and just the same old story regurgutated from one generation to the next of the non thinking.
Close all the holes off in the crown board (unless feeding) then put a slab of 50mm kingspan on the crownboard - or even better, stick it permanently in the hive roof after closing the pointless vents in it.

I have gone a step further this year, right or wrong time will tell, in insulating the feed box, I only use a 1.5l tray feeder and all feeder box sides plus all the base excluding the feeder tray have 25mm foam with a loose piece plonked over the tray. why ? if I need to lift the lid to feed, the majority of the area exposed is insulated reducing loss of heart. Every little helps. And yes above that the roof has 50mm. Logic at play, more insualtion = less gas used so more insualtion less feed consumed. Just to add the trays are currently empty as the girls are well stocked up.

 

[Will C]

I have gone a step further this year, right or wrong time will tell, in insulating the feed box, I only use a 1.5l tray feeder and all feeder box sides plus all the base excluding the feeder tray have 25mm foam with a loose piece plonked over the tray. why ? if I need to lift the lid to feed, the majority of the area exposed is insulated reducing loss of heart. Every little helps. And yes above that the roof has 50mm. Logic at play, more insualtion = less gas used so more insualtion less feed consumed. Just to add the trays are currently empty as the girls are well stocked up.

Put on Perspex crown boards so I can monitor cluster, insulated both with 50mm kingspan insulation and put in 2 strips Apivar to each hive.

Hive 1 is now closed for winter,

I can’t get front entrance block closed on hive 2 as they’re so angry, clustered up front.

Got 3 stings today and picked out about 10 from gloves. It’s unusual as they are normally very easy to work with.

Will ask a local beekeeper for help I think.

Last year they were a dream to work with. This year, so defensive, angry.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I can’t get front entrance block closed on hive 2

what do you mean, 'closed' ?

 

[Will C]

On smallest aperture so I can put mouse guard on for winter. It’s still ajar.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

On smallest aperture so I can put mouse guard on for winter. It’s still ajar.

if you're using the smallest aperture you shouldn't use a mouse guard as it's so easy for the entrance to get blocked, in fact, you should take the block out completely.
If the height of the entrance aperture is only 8mm, you don't need a mouseguard anyway.
To be honest, the smaller three/four inch entrance is fine summer or winter, I use solid floors occasionally and the entrance block, with the smaller entrance is permanently nailed in place

 

[ericbeaumont]

3 stings today and picked out about 10 from gloves. It’s unusual

Late in the season bees are likely to object to interference, so give them another chance on warm spring days next year. However, if they continue to be defensive, requeen before they produce drones that will pollute the locality and amplify the problem for others.

Last year they were a dream to work with. This year, so defensive, angry.

Did they swarm or supersede this year?