which poly

[peteinwilts]

Hi Guys

'Still' thinking about getting a few polys to to try.

I bought dozen Kielers last year as an experiment. After just a small number of months use, I have noticed corners and edges are being nibbled already.
Does this happen on full sized poly? What sort of lifespan would I expect?

I only have National hives. Can anyone recommend a good quality Polyhive that would be compatible with my existing hives, that won't cost a small fortune?
I would probably buy 10-12 hives to start, so might be able to get discount.

Cheers
Pete

 

[Ely]

I bought a pains 14 x 12 and now regret it. I think the swienty ones are much better quality. If I had to start from scratch I would probably go Swienty Langstroth

 

[theeggman]

As I run 14x12 I went with P**nes.
The roof is a very snug fit and the clear cover board gets glued to the frame tops very well but I'm happy with my buy, in fact I bought a second one in the sale.
The one in use has only been occupied for about 7 months so I can't give a long term report, but I have mixed and matched poly and cedar bits without trouble.
In fact I use a standard framed QX and cover board with no issues, looks a bit odd but that's all.
As reported elsewhere on the forum you need to use an entrance block with a standard mouse ex.
I find that the colony in the poly is out and about at 2 degs below the cedar which is 18" away.
Hope this helps.

Tim

 

[ROACHMAN]

I think you should consider the Langstroth route.

Ive got Paradise and Sweinty Langstroth.

You are welcome to come on over and have a look at them if you like.

 

[Hivemaker.]

I only have National hives. Can anyone recommend a good quality Polyhive that would be compatible with my existing hives, that won't cost a small fortune?

I think you should consider the Langstroth route.

Would they be compatible with the poly nationals.

 

[theeggman]

Thanks HM.
As a newbee and having gone for 14x12, I didn't want to waste my cedar kit, hence compatible poly 14x12.
Tim.

 

[itma]

Options I know of for poly Nats are Pains, Beehive Supplies, CWJ and MB(Swienty?).

There are two groups, the first two and the last two.

The first two are Nat standard *inside*.
And they both happen to be 500mm square outside (should be a new poly standard).
And they both offer a 14x12.
Pains are one-piece mouldings, whereas BHS boxes are four walls to be glued together.
Pains are cheaper, and IMHO uglier.

I have a Pains 14x12. The bees like it. But the roof is too thin (daftly its thinner, less insulated, than the walls). However, the combination of a Pains roof plus super plus Kingspan to fill is actually cheaper than a BHS roof.

No problems with durability so far. No chewing, no slug damage. The plastic is higher density than the Kielers I have seen. They are in the same material as the Pains poly nucs, if you've met them.
Painting it white makes it even uglier.
Consider your mouseguarding ahead of time - you can't just use a standard part from T.
I use a framed qx, and a proper framed polycarb crownboard, rather than thin plastic items resting on the frame topbars. Visible, but works fine.
Being internally standard, it interoperates nicely with other wood parts - except that a wooden roof won't fit over a poly super!
The brood box sticks to the floor (there is a wraparound joint) - so with a 14x12 I need a second pair of hands to split them. I can't lift, balance on one leg and get a good enough kick at the floor.
For the same reason, you can't put a Pains poly super direct onto a Pains poly floor (should you ever want or need to).
Summary - cheap, zero assembly (unless you want castellations), bees happy and thriving - but looks embarrassing (especially painted white - but that is due to be changed). Would buy more, possibly without the floor.

I steered clear of Pains original poly feeder, thinking it ill-conceived. Haven't examined the Mark 2 yet.



The BHS floor looks a much more practical design. And the roof is much prettier. The whole thing looks much less visually offensive!
But just floor+roof costs more than a complete Pains (empty) hive.



The CWJ is standard Nat *external* dimensions - so it only takes 10 brood frames in the box. And they do offer a pretty conventional feeder in poly.


The MB is top beespace.

 

[BeeJayBee]

I only have National hives. Can anyone recommend a good quality Polyhive that would be compatible with my existing hives, that won't cost a small fortune?
I would probably buy 10-12 hives to start, so might be able to get discount

Try Beehive supplies, in Cornwall. They look particularly good.

Contact DerekM because he's testing several different poly hives. http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/member.php?u=6228

 

[waverider]

I have poly's from P8ynes and Be8hivesupplies. Both very good hives that i am pleased with. The ****** hive is somewhat more cumbersome in comparison.


On a note;I would advice not to purchase frames with the hive from Be8hivesupplies. The quality is terrible.

 

[peteinwilts]

I have poly's from P8ynes and Be8hivesupplies. Both very good hives that i am pleased with. The ****** hive is somewhat more cumbersome in comparison.


On a note;I would advice not to purchase frames with the hive from Be8hivesupplies. The quality is terrible.

Thanks all and waverider. What is behind the stars? (clue please!)

 

[sipa]

My bees have done very well in poly, and won't be using wood again.
P*ynes are cheap, but ugly. Build quality is variable, the mouldings leave little circular indentations on the mating surfaces, this does allow bees to start nibbling away the poly if near the edges, several of mine have made themselves upper entrances via this route !
I don't like the floors, and the way the brood sits inside lugs on the floor. I have a few other minor niggles but on balance these hives represent great value as they are complete with rails, poly crownboard, Open mesh floor and varroa screen, no entrance block tho.... strange.

The old style feeder was rubbish, lots of drowned bees. I modded mine and they were then fine. The new style has very similar mods to the ones I did, so should now be fine.

Swienty Polys seem to be more pleasing to the eye and just as practical if not more so but don't come with the extras as standard.

 

[ultreen1]

these hives represent great value as they are complete with rails, poly crownboard, Open mesh floor and varroa screen, no entrance block tho.... strange.

I've purchased 3 paines polly hives very recently and they now come with entrance blocks. The first I bought last year didn't come with an entrance block.

For me the only downside is painting them...tedious!

 

[Swarm]

Sipa,
Those moulding indentations can easily be filled, this was a point brought up when the hives first became available.

There is an entrance block with integral mouse guard offered now, though making one is not difficult, mine has an 8mm height and full width.

 

[sipa]

Agree that the moulding imperfections can be filled, but why should you have to do that ?

 

[david fox]

poly paint

What is the best paint to use on my new poly hive? its a ******

 

[madasafish]

The Mod Beekpeeing site has detailed instructions on paint and panting.

Edit : and very OT

I see I'm now a queen.. must tell Mrs madasafish. She will be pleased.Not.

 

[johnandyrob]

I paint mine with maisonary paint as advised by rooftops who used to have an interest in mb. But into the lions den uses gloss for hive body etc.. and maisonary paint for inside of feeders. You can use any paint that will stand up to being outside all year round just so long as is doesnt melt the poly

 

[itma]

Some would advocate the use of a water-based paint, not least as being quicker to lose any paint smells, and so allow the hive to be used.

 

[Philip]

petroleum jelly from the chemist [its quite cheap] is very useful to stop the parts from being glued by the bees and also help to act a general release agent between parts i find.

 

[Ross]

Definitely only use water based paint for poly hives, you can get water based gloss and floor paint too which are suitable. Any paint which uses VOCs is likely to melt any polystyrene when it is painted on. The same goes for using fillers etc to repair any danage.

Ross