When do I need to go to double brood?

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Beanwood

House Bee
Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
331
Reaction score
1
Location
Just North of Bristol
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
5 - 8
I have a 14x12 hive, which I moved my nuc into about a month ago. I now have brood on at least 8 frames, and there appear to be a LOT of bees.
Yesterday I put on a super (All that brood, but not many stores bizarrely)

So, my question is, how do I know if I need to go double brood ?:bigear:
 
I am not an expert, but surely with a 14x12 you don't need to go to a double brood? With brood on 8 frames you still have space?
 
I am not an expert, but surely with a 14x12 you don't need to go to a double brood? With brood on 8 frames you still have space?

:iagree:

I would add a (shallow) super and then keep adding them as needed. There is no harm in adding 2 straight away if you are worried.

Personally I use a QE between the 14x12 box and the supers, but plenty of others don't. If I only have foundation in the super I leave the QE off for a week as they seem to draw comb better that way, although you will probably get eggs in the central supers.

Adding another deep 14x12 box might mean getting most of your honey on the 14x12 frames which is hard to extract.
 
I've got the same problem but was advised to put on a brood box so it's easier to make a new hive if you need to at a later date. Being a complete novice I'm finding all the different advice somewhat confusing and alot of people say just do what you think is right - that's fine if you have some experience. As my bees wont produce any honey to extract do people think super or brood box ? sorry to jump into discussion.
 
I've got the same problem but was advised to put on a brood box so it's easier to make a new hive if you need to at a later date. Being a complete novice I'm finding all the different advice somewhat confusing and alot of people say just do what you think is right - that's fine if you have some experience. As my bees wont produce any honey to extract do people think super or brood box ? sorry to jump into discussion.

You're more than welcome here.;)
 
At this time of year a 14 x 12 is more than enough, so super up.

PH
 
I am not an expert, but surely with a 14x12 you don't need to go to a double brood? With brood on 8 frames you still have space?

Ah you see - that was my thought with going for m14x12. However with only 2 frames in the brood box 'spare' I thought I'd better ask before I run out of room (Potentially)

:iagree:

I would add a (shallow) super and then keep adding them as needed. There is no harm in adding 2 straight away if you are worried.

Personally I use a QE between the 14x12 box and the supers, but plenty of others don't. If I only have foundation in the super I leave the QE off for a week as they seem to draw comb better that way, although you will probably get eggs in the central supers.

Adding another deep 14x12 box might mean getting most of your honey on the 14x12 frames which is hard to extract.

A week ago I would have thought you were pulling my leg with expecting honey this year. :biggrinjester: However, the sun is out, the bees are busy, so who knows....
 
The question is Beanwood how much of each frame is brood and how much if any is stores? The two remaining frames have what in them? I will keep this live while I watch the TDF highlights

PH
 
I had same situation a cpl weeks ago - 14x12, brood on 9+ frames and they were putting pollen in the super. I added another super with some foundation and a cpl starter strips to keep them busy and they have been ok since - just about filled the super and started on a third.
 
The question is Beanwood how much of each frame is brood and how much if any is stores? The two remaining frames have what in them? I will keep this live while I watch the TDF highlights

PH

Hi PH,

It appears to be almost wall to wall brood. There isn't a large arch of stores, as my other bees have, which is why I was getting a little concerned.

I have just been to a club meeting, and someone else has JUST picked up a nuc of bees from the same supplier (Club member - not commercial) and has the same situation.

Indeed he probably breaks the 'good nuc' guidelines, by having insufficient stores on the frames. These are provided as 'Free Bees' - i.e. to get a newcomer started. The lack of stores was easily rectified by feeding - and they're certainly strong colonies.
 
Thanks for letting me join in, i'm going to look in the hive tommorow to see whats going on but I seem to have mostly brood, at least from the last look, will return here for advice.
 
The question is Beanwood how much of each frame is brood and how much if any is stores? The two remaining frames have what in them? I will keep this live while I watch the TDF highlights

PH
would TDF be the tour de France ?

F1 I could understand ;)
 
I had same situation a cpl weeks ago - 14x12, brood on 9+ frames and they were putting pollen in the super. I added another super with some foundation and a cpl starter strips to keep them busy and they have been ok since - just about filled the super and started on a third.

Wow - I missed this one last night. I can't believe you got your bees later than me, and you're getting honey BEFORE me.

Life's just so unfair :mad::mad::mad: (Throws toys to floor and flounces off.......)










not worthy
 
Wow - I missed this one last night. I can't believe you got your bees later than me, and you're getting honey BEFORE me.

Life's just so unfair :mad::mad::mad: (Throws toys to floor and flounces off.......)
not worthy

lol, i'll save you a spoonful

it was an overwintered established colony, it's not you ;)
 
The thing to remember is that once the brood is full bees are emerging as fast as the eggs are being laid. That is the whole point of having a bb the right size. Optimum use of the cells available. You can give them too much brood space and that then starts getting used for stores, hence the QE and the supers which give more bee room but no more laying room!
E
 
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