What did you do in the 'workshop' today

[JamezF]

You could make those clearers deeper?

I put a new super underneath when I put them on, so I've never found the need.

James

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

but there will come a time when you may not have that luxury

 

[JamezF]

but there will come a time when you may not have that luxury

Then I'll use an eke, or if I get really desperate, a brood box

James

 

[JamezF]

Actually, the brood box is never going to get used. If I don't have sufficient supers then I'll know before I leave home and I can bash an eke together with a few nails and four bits of scrap timber.

James

 

[Swarm]

If you remove the supers and stack them on the boards you won't have to worry either way.

 

[JamezF]

If you remove the supers and stack them on the boards you won't have to worry either way.

Unfortunately that's not an option I have at one of my sites, otherwise I'd be tempted.

James

 

[Penninetrader]

Clearer boards completed.

Hopefully I now have enough to cope with whatever happens next year.

Now, what's next?

James

Unfortunately that's not an option I have at one of my sites, otherwise I'd be tempted.

James

They look very neat with those rabbeted joints at the corners, have you let the ply base in or just nailed through the sides ? Based on what I have seen and read from you I am absolutely certain that you will be organised and have a plan with built in contingency. As for Bash together, naaah

 

[Erichalfbee]

If you remove the supers and stack them on the boards you won't have to worry either way.

I’m a real convert to this method. It’s so simple.

 

[JamezF]

They look very neat with those rabbeted joints at the corners, have you let the ply base in or just nailed through the sides ? Based on what I have seen and read from you I am absolutely certain that you will be organised and have a plan with built in contingency. As for Bash together, naaah

The ply is let into the sides by about 5mm. I probably should have used a router to cut the grooves, but our router table is a cheap one that my father-in-law bought years ago and it doesn't work as well as I'd like so I cut them using the table saw instead, moving the fence along by the width of the kerf until the groove was wide enough. Bit nasty, but it gets the job done.

I have a nice piece of scrap 25mm hardwood ply that I'll use to make a new router table once I can find a suitably-priced router to fit into it.

James

 

[pargyle]

I have a nice piece of scrap 25mm hardwood ply that I'll use to make a new router table once I can find a suitably-priced router to fit into it.

James

From experience .. the important bit of the router table is the router table insert and you want one that allows you to adjust the rise and fall of the router from above the table, it is very frustrating having to take the insert out to have to adjust the depth of cut or change the cutter in the router. I got it wrong - bought a cheap insert and regretted it ever since !

 

[JamezF]

From experience .. the important bit of the router table is the router table insert and you want one that allows you to adjust the rise and fall of the router from above the table, it is very frustrating having to take the insert out to have to adjust the depth of cut or change the cutter in the router. I got it wrong - bought a cheap insert and regretted it ever since !

Yes, the current one is a lot of faff to change the cutter or the router depth which is partially why I find it such a pain to use. I've seen a design somewhere that had a hex key adjuster in the table for raising and lowering the router which looked so much neater, but pretty much anything that doesn't require stuff to be dismantled has to be a step forward.

James

 

[Penninetrader]

The ply is let into the sides by about 5mm. I probably should have used a router to cut the grooves, but our router table is a cheap one that my father-in-law bought years ago and it doesn't work as well as I'd like so I cut them using the table saw instead, moving the fence along by the width of the kerf until the groove was wide enough. Bit nasty, but it gets the job done.

I have a nice piece of scrap 25mm hardwood ply that I'll use to make a new router table once I can find a suitably-priced router to fit into it.

James

I do the same on any short run jobs, quicker than set up time and much easier to fine adjust for variable thickness. As for above table, router tables with that facility are mostly more expensive than a similarly featured router. Problem is there are very few with that feature when I was looking a couple of years ago. I plumped for a Triton that has the hex key handle, that Pargyle has mentioned, for adjusting. It is a beast of a tool and perfect for a table setup. The only other I found was a Milwaukee that was only available in the US

 

[pargyle]

Yes, the current one is a lot of faff to change the cutter or the router depth which is partially why I find it such a pain to use. I've seen a design somewhere that had a hex key adjuster in the table for raising and lowering the router which looked so much neater, but pretty much anything that doesn't require stuff to be dismantled has to be a step forward.

James

I have a Katsu compact router it's a Makita look alike but has been very reliable ( I use it mounted hoizontally for decorative routing on my woodturnings) but I;ve just found this on ebay ...

Router Lift Base

I may be tempted to buy one and replace the existing set up in my router table ..might even splash out on a second Kastsu router... £45 on Amazon...

KATSU ROUTER

 

[Macbear]

Time for maintenance for me. Colder weather means clearing QEs of accumulated wax and propolis is easier. Also opportunity to ensure all kit is ready for 2025, including replacing the back bar on a clearing board which failed when I was removing emptied supers in September. Not a problem then, but I want sufficient Clearing Bs and hate to have any kit not ready for action. Intrigued to see snow elsewhere - I'm not envious as 7 degrees now, dropping to possibly 3 [more likely higher as forecasters seem to forget maritime influence for coastal locations].

 

[Penninetrader]

Time for maintenance for me. Colder weather means clearing QEs of accumulated wax and propolis is easier. Also opportunity to ensure all kit is ready for 2025, including replacing the back bar on a clearing board which failed when I was removing emptied supers in September. Not a problem then, but I want sufficient Clearing Bs and hate to have any kit not ready for action. Intrigued to see snow elsewhere - I'm not envious as 7 degrees now, dropping to possibly 3 [more likely higher as forecasters seem to forget maritime influence for coastal locations].

Yes,5 miles from coast totally different weather due to influence of sea Temps. Here in the Pennine hills it is cold and snow laden ground.

 

[Antipodes]

Time for maintenance for me. Colder weather means clearing QEs of accumulated wax and propolis is easier. Also opportunity to ensure all kit is ready for 2025, including replacing the back bar on a clearing board which failed when I was removing emptied supers in September. Not a problem then, but I want sufficient Clearing Bs and hate to have any kit not ready for action. Intrigued to see snow elsewhere - I'm not envious as 7 degrees now, dropping to possibly 3 [more likely higher as forecasters seem to forget maritime influence for coastal locations].

It's -1 this morning in parts of the high country here in Tasmania.
Some workers came here from the UK to help build our incredible hydro electric system in the 1950s etc. They were told before coming that the "weather wasn't too good" here
This year saw parts of the high country in the west "quite wet". For instance, Mt Read had 305mm in July, 571mm in August and 670mm (over 26 inches) in September. It basically rained every day - bar one or two in those months. It's not like they were housed in luxury at the time either, looking at the old footage.