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What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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Swn58 

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It's not up to the individual to chose (got nothing to do with how many certificates you have) it's an algorithm calculated on the number of posts you make
Can't wait to progress to the 'Old Git' level :devilish:
 

John McC 

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I printed up my hive record forms for next year. In addition I printed a Queen tracker sheet for all my 13 colonies, this enables me to see what is happening to each queen.
 
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It looks good, Greg. I wonder if you would mind explaining photo 1 a bit please. What is the material, and have you shaped it to make the wax run to the centre?
 

gmonag 

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It looks good, Greg. I wonder if you would mind explaining photo 1 a bit please. What is the material, and have you shaped it to make the wax run to the centre?
More photos might help:
I wanted to make a "square" funnel (460x460mm).
I started with a card template and cut out a segment.
20201021_143046.jpg

But when the cut out is closed, although it forms a funnel it is not square.
20201021_143205.jpg

So I drew a template on paper with corners of 93º, which forms a square when the cut out is closed. I left the flap there to form a valley to stop leaks of molten wax.

20201021_143223.jpg20201021_143239.jpg
I expanded the template onto a 500x500x1mm square of aluminium, cut it out and closed the gap using pop rivets. It works well. .75mm or .5mm aluminium would be OK and be easier to work.
20201019_121558.jpg
 
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Michael ECB's 

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Not Enough yet.
10 x "cheat" trap boxes today..... 5 x Langstroth old brood frames with 3 x strips of well waxed ply wood strips along each side... Propolis melted on the entrances as well as melted "dirty wax" painted on the inside of new boxes made from very old and weathered plywood/shutter board....
Lots of space for growth of a potential swarm - scouts seem to favour this here.....
Only catch is to neatly trim off new comb from strips and add to frames before new swarm invest to much time and effort into development.
Usually they are happy with the upgraded frames and space...
20201020_164512.jpg
 

Hachi 

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Damn! A lot more than I ever thought I'd have
Bought a Roughneck pallet buster and a Triton thicknesser to help with the mass production of the kit making this winter. I reckon by using pallets instead of DIY store timber, they will pay for themselves by Christmas.
 

Newbeeneil 

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Bought a Roughneck pallet buster and a Triton thicknesser to help with the mass production of the kit making this winter. I reckon by using pallets instead of DIY store timber, they will pay for themselves by Christmas.
I've got a Triton, great bit of kit for its price.
 

Apple 

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The idea is twofold:

1. The castors make moving the extractor around much easier.

2. When an imbalance occurs the castors allow the extractor to move to and fro. This relieves the stresses on the legs. If you bolt the legs down to the floor (as some have done) the legs take all the loads and this may result in failure.

I only use the brakes (which are on the front two castors) to stop it running away when I prop up the rear wheel, to get the dregs out.

A good idea needs revisiting!

My extractors are mounted on hardwood blocks and located on the second floor of the Skibber, which seemed a good idea four seasons ago when we set up the extracting and bottling room.

The floor is industrial thermoplastic tiles which are easy to clean.
However we have outgrown the space, new bottling and labeling machines have taken over, plus carrying heavy honey laden supers for extraction up the staircase is a pain... I am fitting a lift for the bottles etc.. the industrial bottle washer is on the ground floor next to the honey store.

The new honey extraction ( and candle making and II) house is almost finished, with a door and step placed at the front level with the back of the Defender so that supers can be easily lifted in.
The floor in this building is a somewhat softer vinyl material and has been "tanked" so that"washing down" is possible...
I could see the existing set up tearing the lino!

Question is... what size wheels/ castors?
I have heard of a "wobble board" does this go under the wheels?
Extractors are an older 20 frame Thomas with underslung motor, and a 9 frame "Nisala" a Chinese/German hybrid with top mounted motor with electronic speed control.

Any input much appreciated
Chons da
 

gmonag 

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The bigger the castors the better. I use 75mm, on a tiled floor.

You could put down a sheet of ply/hard plastic/metal under the extractor to protect the floor and allow the castors to move easily.
 

Apple 

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The bigger the castors the better. I use 75mm, on a tiled floor.

You could put down a sheet of ply/hard plastic/metal under the extractor to protect the floor and allow the castors to move easily.
Now that has me thinking... a honey catcher that would take a bucket too when I forget to close the gate!!
Cheers
Yeghes da
 

Hachi 

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Damn! A lot more than I ever thought I'd have
After this summers escapades extracting, I went on the dreaded FB and found a 3x2mtr of linoleum to extract on. Peace has returned to the kitchen at least.
 
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Bought a Roughneck pallet buster and a Triton thicknesser to help with the mass production of the kit making this winter. I reckon by using pallets instead of DIY store timber, they will pay for themselves by Christmas.
Just watch out for remnants of nails as they will take a chunk out of the thicknesser blade as soon as look at it ...really hard knots don't do them a lot of good either ....
 

Hachi 

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Damn! A lot more than I ever thought I'd have
Just watch out for remnants of nails as they will take a chunk out of the thicknesser blade as soon as look at it ...really hard knots don't do them a lot of good either ....
Understood Phil. I'm mainly looking at pallets to put through it. Hitting something hard a 17500 revs per minute will not end well
 
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Understood Phil. I'm mainly looking at pallets to put through it. Hitting something hard a 17500 revs per minute will not end well
Yes ... I've put pallet wood through mine ... hence the caution because I've been there ... the skinny wire nails can break off when you dismantle the pallets and the little bits that can get left in the timber will destroy the blade ... I'm not saying don't do it - just be fastidious...,the blades can be resharpened but it's a PITA taking the blades out and the palaver of re-aligning the spindle takes a lot of time... a chipped blade leaves a groove like the Grand Canyon but I suppose if it's only beehives you are going to be building its less of an issue ...
 

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