Using sublimation on a Poly hive?

[wendyt]

Hi there, just wondering how you good people with poly hives manage to oxalic acid sublimation your hives without changing the floor to a wooden one . Any help much appreciated.

 

[Hachi]

I have had a plate made about 1-2mm thick and a slightly bigger footprint than the poly floor. Lift up the rear of the hive, slide in block the gaps with teatowels and away you go.

Simples.......

 

[rdmw]

I built a frame for the polyhive to sit in and sublimate through the mesh floor. Works well. I close the entrance off, lift the hive into the frame and do the treatment . If you like I could send a photo


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[Hachi]

I built a frame for the polyhive to sit in and sublimate through the mesh floor. Works well. I close the entrance off, lift the hive into the frame and do the treatment . If you like I could send a photo


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Yes please

 

[Tony M]

I have Paynes nat poly hives. I used a piece of hardboard (or similar) cut to the width of the floor insert (but left about 4 inches longer the other way, to support the vaporiser handle).
I put the vap-mite on that and slid the hardboard in in place of the plastic floor insert. It scorched the hardboard slightly, but worked a treat.
Incidentally, the same board also fitted a Maisemore poly nat.
It helps to have a clip or something to "fix" the outer end of the vaporiser - the weight of the cable can easily twist it to where you didn't want it!
Hope that helps.

Tony.

 

[wendyt]

I built a frame for the polyhive to sit in and sublimate through the mesh floor. Works well. I close the entrance off, lift the hive into the frame and do the treatment . If you like I could send a photo


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Yes please

 

[wendyt]

I have Paynes nat poly hives. I used a piece of hardboard (or similar) cut to the width of the floor insert (but left about 4 inches longer the other way, to support the vaporiser handle).
I put the vap-mite on that and slid the hardboard in in place of the plastic floor insert. It scorched the hardboard slightly, but worked a treat.
Incidentally, the same board also fitted a Maisemore poly nat.
It helps to have a clip or something to "fix" the outer end of the vaporiser - the weight of the cable can easily twist it to where you didn't want it!
Hope that helps.

Tony.

Yes, thank you.

 

[Karsal]

Hi there, just wondering how you good people with poly hives manage to oxalic acid sublimation your hives without changing the floor to a wooden one . Any help much appreciated.

Photos on Fleabay. Oxalic acid vaporiser heading

 

[bontbee]

Similar to Tony M, but because I have several different styles of floors I use two pieces of 6mm ply, simply overlapped under the mesh. The overlap means that they completely "adjustable" to fit whatever the width of floor. (My stands have two rails on which the ply sits.) I stick the vapouriser in through the back of the hive, under the mesh and use foam to seal. It works very well, poly or wood, no seepage through the overlap in the ply, and it doesn't matter if the ply gets scorched!

 

[Tremyfro]

I use some roof slates. They are thin and flat. I slide them under the hive but on the stand. Wrap a towel round...no problem. The Beehaus are trickier. I use an upturned wooden brood box with a slate on it with the towel around the edge...seems to work. Ideally...I would like an eke with some ply as a bottom to it and rest that on the up turned box. Must try and sort that before the summer.

 

[snoop]

no problem with swienty langstroth hives , simply push the pan in the entrance , it sits on the metal floor
Seal up entrance until the job is done , no damage

 

[Brigsy]

I have Paynes poly. I used to use a false floor etc but this time I just took the entrance block out and went in through the entrance. Worked fine, no damage and a lot easier. Just make sure to put in cold and let cool before removal.

 

[SDM]

I have Paynes nat poly hives. I used a piece of hardboard (or similar) cut to the width of the floor insert (but left about 4 inches longer the other way, to support the vaporiser handle).
I put the vap-mite on that and slid the hardboard in in place of the plastic floor insert. It scorched the hardboard slightly, but worked a treat.
Incidentally, the same board also fitted a Maisemore poly nat.
It helps to have a clip or something to "fix" the outer end of the vaporiser - the weight of the cable can easily twist it to where you didn't want it!
Hope that helps.

Tony.

If you've got Payne's poly's just put it in the entrance and let it sit on the mesh floor.
Wire mesh doesn't melt.

 

[kighill]

I have both wood and Poly, with the wood I went in via the entrance block with the varroa tray in place with the Poly I went in under the varroa mesh , like others have suggested using a piece of ply and foam to prevent excape of the approved treatment.
I put wood under three at a time going from one to the next just adding more approved treatment as I went.

 

[Tony M]

If you've got Payne's poly's just put it in the entrance and let it sit on the mesh floor.
Wire mesh doesn't melt.

I did look at that: the main thing that worried me was that there wasn't all that much room vertically between the hot pan and the bottom of the frames. I might have an overactive imagination, but:

• If the handle end of the vaporiser drops a bit over the entrance board ('cos it's the heavy end), the vaporiser pivots roughly about the entrance slot, and the pan end could rise up and touch the frames. I had a nasty mental picture about an overheated pan and the flashpoint of the wax.
• The entrance slot isn't very big - I could imagine unfortunate melting as I withdrew the vaporiser.
• (also, I'd have had to remove the entrance block).

I'm sure I could have overcome these concerns (as others presumably have), but going underneath seemed the easier way.

Thoughts welcome.

Tony.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Tony that's the main reason I modified my floors so that I could vape underneath. The first time I ever used my Varrox I scorched the bottom bars. I didn't discover it till I removed the nadired shallows in the spring

 

[Swarm]

Home made floors are far more versatile, with all these things factored in during construction.

 

[Amari]

Tony that's the main reason I modified my floors so that I could vape underneath. The first time I ever used my Varrox I scorched the bottom bars. I didn't discover it till I removed the nadired shallows in the spring

Me too. I use plastic frames and after vapping discovered, some time later, that the bottom bars of one frame had melted! I now vap from under the OMF.

 

[Levitt53]

Sorry to possibly be thick but what is the difference between vaping a wooden hive and a poly one? I have one of each but haven't tried vaping yet.

 

[Millet]

Sorry to possibly be thick but what is the difference between vaping a wooden hive and a poly one? I have one of each but haven't tried vaping yet.

Polystyrene melts when it gets hot, wood does not.