Under floor entrance.

[Garry R]

If you are impressed with a natural tube style entrance as per a hole in a tree then a 30cm length of electric cable ducting with a panel at the back removed, screwed on the front of the hive entrance with the removed slot aligned with the original entrance does the trick perfectly. Snap the front off occasionally in the winter to clear the entrance in case there are dead bees that have not been cleared by the bees and clip back on when done. Two minute job and minimal disturbannce to the bees. No wasps and no mice, Jobs a good one for about 40p each and a bit of drilling of 5mm holes across the front!!

 

[JamezF]

Only disadvantage I can think of is not being able to easily see what pollen the girls are collecting as they whizz in.

That's one of the reasons I like the ones I have extended landing boards on. I'm fully aware that the bees have no need of it and that it's really only for my benefit, but I think I'm allowed to enjoy beekeeping too

James

 

[Erichalfbee]

Mine are a hybrid. Lansing board and fill width front entrance low down, then into a small covered area and up an internal board, about 4", to the nest. Best of both worlds, easy to add mouse guards, block, reduce entrance, but gives them immediate shelter when landing. Also its a bit of a chicane for wasps so they get a do-ing before they get anywhere near the inside of the hive.

Mine

 

[Newbeeneil]

Mine
View attachment 37337View attachment 37338

Mine have reduced width of slit for the bees to access via and also a piece of conduit that enters via a small hole in the centre of the floor which can be used during wasp attack by blocking the main entrances.