treating super stacks

[peteinwilts]

Hi Guys

Possibly a bit early for this question!

Last year I treated stacks of supers and brood boxes with sulphur candles

The sulphur dioxide corroded the runners and the galvanised finish comes off.

Should the runners be removed prior to treating (I will be surprised if this is the case!), rubbed down in spring or coated?

The reason I ask, is I am looking at steel castellated runners and am thinking about installing them before the supers get sealed ready for treating.

Cheers
Pete

 

[Somerford]

Vaseline on them ?

Or spray certan instead

Im around Sunday....need the key ?

S

 

[peteinwilts]

please! I can give yours a second treatment whilst I am there if you like.

I'll look into Certan a bit deeper and see if I can buy in bulk. £12 a stack is quite expensive!

 

[itma]

...
I'll look into Certan a bit deeper and see if I can buy in bulk. £12 a stack is quite expensive!

I gather that there are different strains of B Thuringiniensis that are optimised for different pest moths/caterpillars.
"Certan" is supposedly targeted at Wax Moth, but there are other B401's sold for agricultural use that are intended for use against for example Cabbage Whites. Different strains of the bacteria, I was told.

Marketing or fact? Dunno.
But I doubt the possible savings would buy much foundation ...



Nice suggestion I heard was to set up a couple of ladders on edge (suitably propped up), as long rails, for easily supporting (while drying) lots of frames after Certan spraying.

 

[Cazza]

I've been a Certan bunny for several years now, having had a wax moth attack. It might be expensive but it works.
Cazza

 

[Luminos]

I gather that there are different strains of B Thuringiniensis that are optimised for different pest moths/caterpillars.
"Certan" is supposedly targeted at Wax Moth, but there are other B401's sold for agricultural use that are intended for use against for example Cabbage Whites. Different strains of the bacteria, I was told.

Marketing or fact? Dunno.
But I doubt the possible savings would buy much foundation ...



Nice suggestion I heard was to set up a couple of ladders on edge (suitably propped up), as long rails, for easily supporting (while drying) lots of frames after Certan spraying.

The people at Certan told me that the product is effective against clothes moths.

 

[victor meldrew]

I use 80% glacial acetic acid , it seems not to attack propolis so metal hive parts are unscathed in my supers.
Vm

 

[ichbinpaul]

I use 80% glacial acetic acid , it seems not to attack propolis so metal hive parts are unscathed in my supers.
Vm

Glacial??? has a blue appearance!?

 

[beebreeder]

I use a thxxxes sulphur burner stood in a broodbox over a stack, had no corrosion problems yet, should not have said that, they will all go rusty now

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I use a thxxxes sulphur burner stood in a broodbox over a stack, had no corrosion problems yet, should not have said that, they will all go rusty now

used it once - had corrosion, haven't bothered since, now i just store my supers wet

 

[victor meldrew]

Glacial??? has a blue appearance!?

No! Water clear! Pungent ,don't get a lung full or you'll regret it
VM

 

[Hachi]

No! Water clear! Pungent ,don't get a lung full or you'll regret it
VM

I use 80% glacial acetic acid , it seems not to attack propolis so metal hive parts are unscathed in my supers.
Vm

Me too and

 

[oliver90owner]

Glacial acetic acid is not 80%. It is close to 100%. At that purity it freezes at around 17 degrees - one reason for not using it, as it may well freeze and not be effective. 80% is perfectly adequate, will not freeze and is considerably less hazardous to use than higher concentrations, although still potentially a serious danger to the inexperienced user of chemicals.

 

[Norton]

Phostoxin.

 

[Haughton Honey]

Why don't you just store them wet outside and seal them top and bottom?

Never had a problem yet.

 

[victor meldrew]

Why don't you just store them wet outside and seal them top and bottom?

Never had a problem yet.

My sentiments for years , reasoning being "wax moths don't attack supers" Er! They did one year grand style!
Leaving them wet isn't an option. Honey is hygroscopic leading to fermentation.
Okay ,the bees will clean up the mess but at what cost?
I now return supers to the hives for cleansing , treat with acetic acid , then stack outside in the apiary convenient for use on demand!
You lives and you learns,
Rushing around in Spring time cleaning and rewaxing frames is no joke
VM

 

[BKF Admin]

How do you treat with acetic acid ?

 

[Arfermo]

used it once - had corrosion, haven't bothered since, now i just store my supers wet

Never had wm so don't see any need until I do. Why rush into something that may never arise. Keep telling the missus that; also BG and their bloody boiler maintenance twerps that want an arm and a leg for using a duster. Do my own thing on that too.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Leaving them wet isn't an option. Honey is hygroscopic leading to fermentation.
Okay ,the bees will clean up the mess but at what cost?

VM

I'm new at this as last winter was the first time I stored drawn supers of any kind.
1 was dry and the others wet.
I must say that the bees went straight up into the wet ones whereas I had to take the excluder off under the dry one before they would venture there in any significant numbers

 

[Swarm]

I've always stored supers wet, sealed in double bags. When they go on the hives, the bees are up onto the combs before I get the crownboard on.