Treating in lower temperatures

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Outlander

Field Bee
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
951
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2
Location
Norwich Norfolk
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
12 14x12 hives. 2 standard nationals and 8 14x12 nucs.
What would you suggest to use on a feral colonies to treat for varroa in this weather and temp. I was told that these bees had been in the church roof for years, I know that does not mean that it would have been the same colonies but if they had been there for some time would they may be less resistant to some of the older better treatments.
 
Given how recently you undertook the cut out, my inclination would be not to do anything that might prompt them to abscond. Hold off any 'strong' treatments until they are a little more established in their new home.
I would suggest that a mid winter oxalic treatment would be appropriate in this instance but be guided by your own observations of mite fall/phoretic mites and DWV etc. This colony might not need an immediate treatment.
 
Given how recently you undertook the cut out, my inclination would be not to do anything that might prompt them to abscond. Hold off any 'strong' treatments until they are a little more established in their new home.
I would suggest that a mid winter oxalic treatment would be appropriate in this instance but be guided by your own observations of mite fall/phoretic mites and DWV etc. This colony might not need an immediate treatment.

Hi Teemore, I agree with what you say but there is some DWV within the colony. At present we are assessing them but want to cover all options. I'm not convinced we have the queen so I would like to get the general health of the colony up before deciding on spending out on a queen this late in the year, that's if I can still get a mated queen. If we have a queen then I feel the pressure will be off and then just make them comfortable and leave them to get on with it.
 
Given how recently you undertook the cut out, my inclination would be not to do anything that might prompt them to abscond. Hold off any 'strong' treatments until they are a little more established in their new home.
I would suggest that a mid winter oxalic treatment would be appropriate in this instance but be guided by your own observations of mite fall/phoretic mites and DWV etc. This colony might not need an immediate treatment.

yes they need treatment as soon as possible :willy_nilly: if i can see varroa might wandering around them bees need help. would like to wait till more setteld but i think the bees need all the help we can give them :Angel_anim:
 
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Hi Teemore, I agree with what you say but there is some DWV within the colony. At present we are assessing them but want to cover all options. I'm not convinced we have the queen so I would like to get the general health of the colony up before deciding on spending out on a queen this late in the year, that's if I can still get a mated queen. If we have a queen then I feel the pressure will be off and then just make them comfortable and leave them to get on with it.

:iagree: thats what i was trying to say
 
Something I wouldn't do would be a Thymol-based treatment (like Apiguard). Too late after you've waited for them to settle down, and too disruptive.
Shouldn't harm to try Apistan/Bayvarol. They can be used late and the bees don't take much notice (unlike Thymol!) But make sure to remove the strips at the due date. The only real risk is wasting the cost of the things - and relying on them!
Anytime they are open, you could give them an icing sugar shower. Might do a little good, shouldn't do any harm. And if you can see lots of mites on bees, then icing sugar can hit those ones. And the more often its done, the more chance of an effect. You can do it every single time they are open, if you like.
VarroaGard is said to be usable at anytime, but it does seem to depend on bee activity. It is possible to dust with that as well.

Not too long before they can have a mid-winter acid treatment.
And next spring, they'll be getting fresh frames - so you could even do a shook swarm rather than a Bailey comb change ... if they still have a problem at that stage.



My personal expectation is that a *warm* hive and plenty feeding would probably be the most important things right now. I think they may well be wanting to do some wax-repair work ... and that needs warmth and lots of fuel.
 
Hi Itma' Thanks for your post I was wondering about incorporating the icing sugar with what ever we decide to do. Now going out to have a look at what I can pick up. Am lucky that we have two Tho---s agents with in 15 miles north and south of me. One of which sells all sorts of interesting stuff so will try theme first.
 
Shouldn't harm to try Apistan/Bayvarol. They can be used late and the bees don't take much notice (unlike Thymol!) But make sure to remove the strips at the due date. The only real risk is wasting the cost of the things - and relying on them!

This is where I'd start. Thymol applications being temperature sensitive and potentially disruptive, strips not. If they've truly been feral for a number of years then no reason to suspect low efficacy on 1st application of Apistan/Bayvarol.
 
If they've truly been feral for a number of years then no reason to suspect low efficacy on 1st application of Apistan/Bayvarol.

Have never used Apistan/Bayvarol but is efficacy not based on the level of resistance in the general Varroa population rather than frequency of application to a particular colony?. Unless the colony is in complete isolation ( unlikely here) they have probably the same varroa as the rest of the bees in the area.
 
As far as I know Apistan resistance lasts only a couple of years, the data on Beebase suggests it hasn't been widely tested or monitored since 2008. A one-of treatment isn't likely to give the mites the chance to increase resistance. There's also Apivar.
 
Vaporise with Oxallic Acid... cheap efficient easy to administer and not harmful to the bee ( wear a respirator, goggles, best marigolds and long rubber boots like wot men who go down in sewers wear !
 
Have never used Apistan/Bayvarol but is efficacy not based on the level of resistance in the general Varroa population rather than frequency of application to a particular colony?. Unless the colony is in complete isolation ( unlikely here) they have probably the same varroa as the rest of the bees in the area.

If that was the case then resistance would persist, but experience shows that it does not. Resistance is expensive to maintain and hence recedes in successive generations once the selection pressure is removed. Also it is unlikely that every beekeeper in the area is treating with the same treatment; many are probably relying on thymol.
 
Hi Teemore, I agree with what you say but there is some DWV within the colony. At present we are assessing them but want to cover all options. I'm not convinced we have the queen so I would like to get the general health of the colony up before deciding on spending out on a queen this late in the year, that's if I can still get a mated queen. If we have a queen then I feel the pressure will be off and then just make them comfortable and leave them to get on with it.
At this time of year and showing dwv I would use apivar if you can get it. Mites aren't resistant to it.
 

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