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Thanks for all your help guys! Maybe I'll grab a table saw from argos!

And then spend money on a workhorse makita drill for life, beekeeping, and beyond. I prefer screws to nails.


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Good man, apart from making frames everything else i make is drilled glued and screwed, there's no better site than seen a tightened screw push glue out of the joint, you know it is pulled tight when you see that.:D
 
Good man, apart from making frames everything else i make is drilled glued and screwed, there's no better site than seen a tightened screw push glue out of the joint, you know it is pulled tight when you see that.:D



An old carpenter told me that a nail is as good as a screw in an end grain !


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Ring or spiral shank nails are just as strong as screws


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Ring or spiral shank nails are just as strong as screws


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Its is not the strength as both are equal , it is the way the fixing is applied and hold it, Screws pull everything together tighter, nails do similar, have you ever nailed something then nailed the other side only to see the first nailed side has come open, with screws this does not happen,try pulling a screw out with a claw hammer, also if you make a mistake a screw is easily removed, each to there own i suppose, so screw you.. ;)
 
Its is not the strength as both are equal , it is the way the fixing is applied and hold it, Screws pull everything together tighter, nails do similar, have you ever nailed something then nailed the other side only to see the first nailed side has come open, with screws this does not happen,try pulling a screw out with a claw hammer, also if you make a mistake a screw is easily removed, each to there own i suppose, so screw you.. ;)



Screws are just as easily pulled out of end grains as nails .
I had some pallets non standard sizes from a chemical company in China ! I didn't know what the timber was but the twisted shank nails wouldn't give , even with the persuader [emoji23]


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Screws are just as easily pulled out of end grains as nails .
I had some pallets non standard sizes from a chemical company in China ! I didn't know what the timber was but the twisted shank nails wouldn't give , even with the persuader [emoji23]


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It depends on the quality of wood also , soooooooooooo , if we have crap quality wood, screws will pull out and lone behold so will nails more frequently if i may add, now if we have good solid wood you will see a difference, if not you are doing something wrong , that wood from China will most likely have had 3inch ring nails holding it together, a 1.5in screw would have done the same job no doubt on that cheap Chinese pine.
 
It depends on the quality of wood also , soooooooooooo , if we have crap quality wood, screws will pull out and lone behold so will nails more frequently if i may add, now if we have good solid wood you will see a difference, if not you are doing something wrong , that wood from China will most likely have had 3inch ring nails holding it together, a 1.5in screw would have done the same job no doubt on that cheap Chinese pine.



Cheap pine or no ,it was bloody hard and straight grained .
I've made some hive stands from it .
It's the heaviest pine I've ever handled .[emoji6]


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Table saw
Decent drill
Rechargeable screwdriver

Stanley knife
Tape measure (or similar) and pencil
Hammerl
Staple gun
Hive tool

Failed miserably on the power tools. My birthday is coming up so I'll be watching this thread with interest to see what I should request.
 
I use extra-long screws when screwing into end-grain - 'tis my usual method of butt-joining pallet wood (together with D4 glue from Toolstation) - never had a joint fail yet.
LJ
 
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Experience teaches when to use screws and when nails. There are no rules what to do.
Nowadays there are huge collection of screws. 20 years ago life was different.
 
Old cabinet makers never used nails or screws only joints, glue and clamps.
 
Old cabinet makers never used nails or screws only joints, glue and clamps.

First mention of the tool I'd have been putting at the top of my list.

Good quality Sash-clamps.
 
First mention of the tool I'd have been putting at the top of my list.

Good quality Sash-clamps.

:iamwithstupid: But make sure they are BIG enough!!

Eye protection... gloves a shove stick for the bench saw ( an assortment as they get lost) and a powerfull dust extractor are items to be found in my workshop ( plus a good heater!!)

I was given an industrial band saw and a morticing machine by a friend who had his workshop flooded and insurers replaced with new.... I would like a spindle router and a planer thicknesser... and a bigger shed!

Yeghes da
 
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Eye protection... gloves a shove stick for the bench saw ( an assortment as they get lost) and a powerfull dust extractor are items to be found in my workshop

It goes without exception that PPE should be top of the list.

However, One thing to remember is;
FULL PPE is required,
An unavoidable consequence is that we worry more about eye & Hand/finger injuries when most of these injuries will to some extent heal in time.

Damage to lungs & hearing is progressive/cumulative and once identified it's irreversible.

Ear-defenders and dust extraction are not a luxury they are a requirement! :nono:
 
It goes without exception that PPE should be top of the list.

However, One thing to remember is;
FULL PPE is required,
An unavoidable consequence is that we worry more about eye & Hand/finger injuries when most of these injuries will to some extent heal in time.

Damage to lungs & hearing is progressive/cumulative and once identified it's irreversible.

Ear-defenders and dust extraction are not a luxury they are a requirement! :nono:
My main worry for PPE is eye protection first and foremost above everything else, a lot of injuries can be repaired but a popped eye ball is done and dusted, several years ago i was trying to get a tyre of a quad bike wheel, i was hitting the end of the tyre lever with a 2lb hammer then all of a sudden i got a sharp pain in the left side of my chest, when i pilled my jumper and tea shirt off blood was squirting out about 4in from a hole in my chest, that was me in the car and off to A@E, after a Xray a 2mm x 3mm piece of metal was found in my chest just short of my rib cage and 2inches further left to the entry wound, now if that was my eye i would most certainly have lost it, they are vulnerable and we only have two so look after them, i do.
 
Rechargeable impact driver.
Definitely not essential for building hives but so handy if you drive a lot of screws or bolts. Often sold together with a drill so you have two tools and two batteries that match.
 
Rechargeable impact driver.
Definitely not essential for building hives but so handy if you drive a lot of screws or bolts. Often sold together with a drill so you have two tools and two batteries that match.
You need the correct screw driver attachments for those impact drivers as the standard bits shatter pretty quick.
 
Am i late? :)

Table saw
Power or cordless drill
Heatgun

Makita is always good, but, if you are on budget, Ryobi or B&D will do the job.

Staple gun
Hand saw with mitre box
Clamps. Lots of clamps in few sizes
Plainer
2 hammers(bigger for hives and smaller for frames)
 
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What I use mostly

- table saw
- machine cutter saw
- machine planner
- sand machine
- electrict nailer
- drill machine
- hand saw
- painting things

- clamps
- direct angles, big and small ones
- different size rulers
- moulds to make standard size

i do not use drawings. I measure dimensions from existing furnitures.

Screws are not my favorit.

- many size of nails

What I do
- box are rare

I do
- floors
- inner covers
- rain roofs
- stands
- assemble frames
- entrance reducers
- repair damages of poly boxes
- nucs
- excluder frames
 
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