where did you get that from then? I've sometimes had to trim a few mil off because it's too long but never too short
Here we wire the frames ourselves and then embed the foundation into the wires, so somewhat different to the UK, however the foundation I purchase has always been about that short on each side and usually also short in depth, being deliberately sized that way.Noob question!
How important is this mismatch between the super and the foundation?
It's at 33 rather than 34cm.
Here we wire the frames ourselves and then embed the foundation into the wires, so somewhat different to the UK, however the foundation I purchase has always been about that short on each side and usually also short in depth, being deliberately sized that way.
Yes...Not totally different to the UK!
I actually think it's quite beneficial when wiring our own frames to have the foundation a little shorter not just from a practical point of view but also to give a little communication channel to the bees while they're drawing the foundation - which is always drawn to the side bars. - an idea originally gleaned from the writings of Alex Gale.
bottom and/or sides - not to stop it warling as they draw but to stop the foundation warping as it expands in the hive's heat thus discouraging the bees from drawing it out properlyYes...
I was told that you need a gap between the wax foundation sheet and the bottom of the frame, or the foundation will warp, presumably as the bees draw it out. Has anyone heard of that?
A potential issue with solid bottom bars: weight of clustering bees x heat generated being the issue. Two piece bottom bars pretty much negate the issue although I suppose it does depend on how well they're cut because some are so close together they might as well be solid!Yes...
I was told that you need a gap between the wax foundation sheet and the bottom of the frame, or the foundation will warp, presumably as the bees draw it out. Has anyone heard of that?
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