Roof vents

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Black Comb

Queen Bee
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
2,737
Reaction score
2
Location
Cumbria
Hive Type
Other
Number of Hives
10+
When you make your own roofs do you fit vents like Th*rns etc or do you just nail leave sealed now that we have OMF's?

Thanks
Peter
 
I think you've raised an interesting point - common sense says "ventilate, it'll help stop damp", but in fact, I think the opposite may well be true - we're basing that on extrapolating our own ventilation systems, but bees will often propolise high level vents if they have access, preferring instead to ventilate from the low-down entrance.
My instinct is to go with "bees know best" and leave them to sort out their own ventilation, particularly as I think that preservation of essential nest heat and atmosphere is very important......
 
I'm using poly hives with OMF but no roof vent. There's never a problem with damp or condensation. I don't see why it shouldn't be the same for a wooden hive.
 
For any timber roof, the roof space should always be vented to the outside. Over total insulation cover or above a vented crownboard, makes no difference.

Regards, RAB
 
good point - if it's above insulation or a crownboard, then they're fine - I was looking at it from the point of view of some experiments done with top bar hives and high entrances/vents - in fact a Warre hive has large vents above the "quilt"
 
I made up a roof this weekend and fitted 50mm kingspan in it; with some cut out so that it fitted tightly. I now realise that this occluded the vents entirely.
Should I have cut the insulation to fit the roof minus the bits of wood you nail round the inside where the roof sits on the crownboard below? The roof is not yet in situ so I could change it.
 
I thought roof vents allows air to escape ie if there is a strong gust stops the roof blowing off by allowing air to escape.

sent using tapatalk
 
I thought roof vents allows air to escape ie if there is a strong gust stops the roof blowing off by allowing air to escape.

A slab of concrete might help but the vents are not even remotely involved with that sort of scenario.

RAB
 
i dont have roof vents as such, i do use clean mastic nossels we have hundreds at work some times and what i do is drill from the inside with a 8 mm drill bit this then gives me a tappering tube which i can use as an escape tube.

as for a hole say an inch round with a small metal mesh over it , no i dont, buts purely cause i am bone idol and cant be bothered
 
As per usual a good mix pf opinions.
Thanks to everyone who has posted.
 
Erichalfbee,

As long as the roof is vented above the Kingspan, it will be alright. That is presuming you do not require any top ventilation for the bees (eg on OMF).

You are losing the thickness of your battens in the height of your roof as an air space?

In those I made recently, I inserted 25mm EPS in the roof to fill flush with the 25mm battens and I have enough overlap for another 25 mm EPS or other insulation if needed. At the moment the colony could be top vented but in winter I may put a membrane, or insulation, between the crownboard and the current insulation. I look at it like this - a crownboard rotted is easy to replace, but a rotted roof is a far larger investment in materials and time.

The EPS sheet cost less than 50p a roof - a kg of sugar saved will pay for it and then it will make a positive saving for as long as it lasts.

I think of houses - air bricks for under-floorboard ventilation are so very important to prevent rot, as is some ventilation (air flow) over any insulation fitted, unless a breathable membrane is included as part of the system design.

If I have to use any solid floors, I will not be using any top ventilation for over-wintering;the brood boxes will be raised by 3-4 mm from the floor when the bees start to cluster, and lowered back onto the floor in the spring. Frames would be cold way and the hive would have a definite slope towards the entrance to avoid any risk of driven rain accumulating in the hive. My hives are not in an exposed site, so little trouble would be anticipated with them like this.

Regards, RAB
 
RAB,
Ah yes.........I get it!!! I have made a mistake
I have to go make some modifications. Good job this last roof is a 6inch one, and good job I've got lots of kingspan.
Thanks a lot
 
Surely a good airflow will help the bees evaporate the excess moisture when ripening honey, my c/boards are now open and all hives have vented roofs, 80% water when the nectar comes in and they have to get it down to 17-18% so ventilation surely helps
kev
 

Latest posts

Back
Top