Removing Winter insulation and unblock roof ventilation

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Do they propolise the mesh over time?
Yes, some quite comprehensively, and as JBM described.

point of the roof ventilation
Before varroa in the early 90s most floors were solid and the common dictat was to compensate and provide ventilation at the top of the stack.

Top ventilation is now seen, quite rightly, as a sin that works against colony efficiency. Regretfully, manufacturers continue to produce crownboards with holes to fit Porter bee escapes, probably just to sell Porter bee escapes.
 
take the boards out. They're always pretty grotty and moldy looking.
In a hollow tree colony detritus would fall to the bottom of the hollow and a world of insects and composters and fungi would revel in it, while the nest several feet or yards above would be unaffected.

As the tray is close to the floor, nest detritus (warmer than at the foot of a hollow tree) will soon attract wax moth larvae and mould (aka fungi) in a place not conducive to good nest health.
 
all down to that idiot Wedmore
His status as an engineer must have enticed many down the dead-end Ventilation Road, but his Manual of Beekeeping is still a useful dip-in reference book, and if you want to know about Tests for Bituminous Filling Compounds for Electrical Apparatus, then he's your man.

Of more interest is surely the very short story Haunted by the Ghost of EB Wedmore, and his obituary in the August 1956 edition of Nature magazine is well worth a read.
 
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Do they propolise the mesh over time?

Mine do, and relatively quickly too, which is one of the reasons I've gone back to solid floors or leaving the inspection board in all the time. We are on a hilltop however, with no significant protection from the wind in most directions. Cold north-easterlies can sometimes feel like they might strip the flesh off your bones.

I'm not in the least surprised that the situation is different in other parts of the country. From discussions with other local beekeepers there appears to be quite a bit of variation between here (on the edge of Exmoor), the Tone valley and the Blackdown Hills on the other side. You may just have to try it and see how your bees react.

James
 
As a beginner I have read and read the arguments for and against OMF vs Solid and am no wiser... I inherited OMF's and the advice from a retired beek to place an empty super on the stand then an OMF, to mitigate the effect of any random gusts during winter storms, that seems logical to me. I was wondering if an OMF then empty super then another OMF would help further dampen any gusts?
I also have 50mm Kingsland in the roof and all roof vents blocked.
What do you think?
K ;)
 
The bees won't complain about any set up providing they are healthy, some of my strongest colonies are the ones in 'old' equipment. Honestly, I've seen bees in boxes with moss growing on them, insides were black and the bees were loving it ;)
 
the advice from a retired beek to place an empty super on the stand then an OMF, to mitigate the effect of any random gusts
sensible but not essential
I was wondering if an OMF then empty super then another OMF would help further dampen any gusts?
that is being a bit over anaI - I have colonies who have wintered without a nadired shallow in pretty severe locations and overwintered fine, to take a few steps to help them is fine, but many get a wee bit silly about it
I also have 50mm Kingsland in the roof and all roof vents blocked

now that is a very sensible move, dare I say it, a no brainer
 
arguments for and against OMF vs Solid
I wouldn't stress yourself.

bees won't complain about any set up providing they are healthy
I agree: a healthy colony (and one that is therefore more likely to be a strong unit, whatever the size) will adapt to whatever combo you give them.

Adopt henceforth a policy of thermal efficiency, which may lead you to run with OMFs, partial OMFs or solid floors.

a very sensible move
Yes!
 
arguments for and against OMF vs Solid
I have had (now still often have) bees on both, makes little different really to be honest, putting OMF on my UFE's is just easier than making then solid floors - and I am a naturally lazy person!
 
now that is a very sensible move, dare I say it, a no brainer
Well at least I am well qualified here then ;)

Thanks for the advice, its been a steep learning cliff this year and dare I say it, my bees are looking much better for winter. I suppose having got them through Q-, low numbers Wasp attacks, Varroa, new Q, newspaper combine and re-uniting and staving off starvation I was worrying too much about losing them during the winter.
I will chill a bit now.
Thanks
K ;)
 
I wouldn't stress yourself.

I agree: a healthy colony (and one that is therefore more likely to be a strong unit, whatever the size) will adapt to whatever combo you give them.

Adopt henceforth a policy of thermal efficiency, which may lead you to run with OMFs, partial OMFs or solid floors.


Yes!
Thanks for the assurances, much appreciated
K ;)
 
Using a super as a wind baffle seems odd and a waste unless it is so bad that it isn#t serviceable , my hive stands all have a baffle as the top rail is 3 - 4" deep on all sides so already does the job..
 
My stand has rails front and back of the hive(s) and the hive entrance is South facing. The prevailing westerly wind would blast through the stand. So, the old super provides the all round baffle that you have.
I also have a garden close-mesh screen up wind of the hive on the fence. The winter gales here in upper SW Northumberland can be Baltic and very strong. Literally belt and braces required.
K :eek:
 
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