Removing the entrance block!

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Drone Bee
Joined
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Location
Yorkshire Wolds
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National
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enough (but all insured!)
What is the best way, or simplest way of removing an entrance block, and tips, so I may then close-up for winter and add a mouseguard.

It may seem a daft question, but after reading BBKA Oct 2013 edition, I decided to invert my entrance block, since then many have told me, where did you get that daft idea from, and were surprised, it was from the BBKA Oct 2013 edition! and said it's old school, and not needed, may work for some.

the only reason I mention, is at the last hive re-arrangement, when on brood and half, super went under bb, excluder off, acryllic quill on, with insulation on top of and roof, this was a number of weeks ago, before I was told, to take out entrance block....

current high weight bb and super weighs 40kg+ to heavy for me to lift, so I'm no wondering what my options are.....

I've not tried yet, but does/should an entrance block just come out, I would not have thought so, when bees glue everything in, and it seems a real shame to start taking the hive apart to get the block out...

so what do others do, lift bb off floor, and remove entrance block?

(and are all Beeks, weight lifters!??)

or insert hive tool, under entrance block and prize-upwards? (smoking bees as you go!)

comments welcome, or easy way to remove?
 
Just get the edge of your hive tool in the crack and prise it out, at the side!
 
I had the same problem last year, they had glued it in and it was a struggle to get it out. Tried levering it out with hive tool first, which brought lots of irritated bees out to see what I was up to. Eventually I enlisted hubby's help to tip the BB up off the floor a few mm so I could get hold of the block.
This year I was prepared and screwed a small cup hook into the block so I have something to get hold of.
 
Don't over worry which way the entrance block goes in, I hadn't heard of the turning of the block until I read that, leave well alone and check every so often with a thin stick to brush out any dead bees near or blocking the entrance. I have never found this a problem.
 
@SuziQ - Thanks for the tip, I've tried that and it will not budge, this hive produces an awful lot of propolis, so much so that in the summer they stuck two supers together, it was welded so tight, you could carry the entire stack of supers, (two), by just carrying the top, it was a heavy lump to carry to extraction room.

@garlicpickle - yes I now know why, I see little hooks on various hive bits! In future I think maybe linseed oil and vaseline may help me here....but maybe this would stop the bees sealing the drafts! Yes I'm trying not to end up with a torrent of bees in my face! As for lifting the super/bb - unless I pull it all apart, this is too heavy.

@BeeNice - I'm sort of wondering, just leave in place, and remember next year, it's just some beeks have told me to wip out the block completely for winter....

each to their own I suppose....

another question, I'm assuming when winter comes, if snow blocks the entrance, remove the snow or leave in place?
 
current high weight bb and super weighs 40kg+ to heavy for me to lift, so I'm no wondering what my options are.....


(and are all Beeks, weight lifters!??)


comments welcome, or easy way to remove?

As a former weightlifter, I find hives particularly bad for my back.. (I used to lift 250kgs plus off the ground with no issues at all - but 40+ years ago). The secret is a straight back, bend your legs and let them do the work. So getting up close and personal to the hives is essential- as are hive stands to keep them off the ground..

Despite that, I have to do daily exercises to keep my spine mobile and from seizing up - a source of stabbing pains earlier this year:-(
 
...easy way to remove?
The other problem is that it's easy to push a block in so far that it's hard to prise out. Simplest remedy is a small screw or staple inserted in one edge at one or both ends. It only goes in as far as the screw and it's far easier to handle with gloved hands.
 
I just leave the block in and apply the mouseguard in front of it, no problems over the last 2 years. I have once on 1 hive removed the guard and fished out any build up of dead bees and reapplied the guard.
 
as per above - lever out with hive tool.
if really stuck and you can get another tool (or two) between floor and brood as a wedge that may help.

re oct 2013 bbka advice - rubbish IMHO. you end up with a floor covered in festering corpses that bees can't remove. better to have full width entrance with mouseguard covering it.
that allows you to remove and sweep out the debris when bees clustered.

I have written a letter to the editor re this issue. leaving others to comment on the dan B article!
 
re oct 2013 bbka advice - rubbish IMHO. you end up with a floor covered in festering corpses that bees can't remove.!
:iagree: althoughi don't have the problem as I use under floor entrances.
Maybe that's why they put matchsticks under the CB - to get rid of the stench of rotting bees and detritus
 
"another question, I'm assuming when winter comes, if snow blocks the entrance, remove the snow or leave in place?"

if on OMF leave in place to stop bees coming out.

alternative is to prop a board against front of hive before snow falls - bees can escape but not tempted to unnecessarily as they can be by reflected light.
 
...
re oct 2013 bbka advice - rubbish IMHO. you end up with a floor covered in festering corpses that bees can't remove. better to have full width entrance with mouseguard covering it.
that allows you to remove and sweep out the debris when bees clustered.

:iagree: With OMF (open) the extra ventilation at floor level of the full width entrance is neither here nor there. However having the whole of the mouseguard available means it ain't going to get blocked!


However, I've still got a few wasps around, so I'm not rushing to do this just yet.


If necessary, crack the floor off the brood, lift it an inch or so and use the hive tool to split the block off whichever piece it is attached to.

Yes, having a screw, hook or something attached allows it to be removed more easily. You could always screw something in now to get a handhold on the block.
Yes, floors should have screws, screweyes, hooks, nails or something, anything to prevent the block going in too far.



Entrance blocks are easily and very cheaply made from B&Q stripwood. No harm in having several with different shape/size entrances.
A (maximum) 8mm tall slot is supposedly proof against the British Standard mouse. 8mm is also a usual thickness dimension for a National frame bottom bar, so *assembling* (rather than carving out) an 8mm slot can actually be done more precisely, and much more easily than one might guess!
 
so the entrance block (reducer) should be removed for winter? when the time comes...and wasps have gone.

(even if I've got to take a deconstruct the current hive!)

or is this a matter or personal preference?
 
so the entrance block (reducer) should be removed for winter? when the time comes...and wasps have gone.

(even if I've got to take a deconstruct the current hive!)

or is this a matter or personal preference?

Some people put mouseguards over the reducer.
But this leaves very few holes (probably a different number for each advisor) available to the bees.
You don't want the bees to become blocked in.
Occasionally, they will get a body stuck in a hole.
The more holes available the less chance of a total blockage between your visits with a chopstick (or spare bottom bar) to poke the holes clear.

Its a judgement call.
I try to take the least chances - and give them the maximum number of holes!
 
Put vaseline on the block first.

I have put a screw on the outside of all of mine and if the bees are busy when I want to remove it I use a tool called a nut grabber.
 
@itma makes perfect sense, hive is in my garden, so it' gets observed daily!

@Dishmop yes, I know that know! Good idea, I've got a nut grabber somewhere in the garage!
 
I leave my entrance block in ,and mouse guard over that, never had any problems.
Have an OMF and my hives are in my garden so can keep check, and keep entrance unblocked.

As for snow, brush away & shade entrance, as the bright snow can bring the bees out, but when they land, can perish.
Hope we don't get much snow but better being prepared.
 

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