Removed the queen excluder

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Tom Bick

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Finally got around to removing the queen excluder to one of my hives I have a plan to do another soon and just got to decide on the hive. It’s strange, it feels wrong, but I know plenty of people say it’s a good thing and time will see if it works for me.
 
For me right now Darren brood in the three supers next week :(
 
Due to probable beekeeper error, one of my queens laid up a complete super. No problem, except that I use a lot of drone comb in my supers.... :( The positive side is that the colony is in a queen rearing apiary and is one that had been selected to graft from so the "extra" drones ware a bonus!

It will be interesting to hear how you both manage without the QXs.
 
I haven't a queen excluder on any of my hives this year to see how it goes,
Whats the worst that can happen???

Darren

Nothing can happen. When yield season is going To end, you May add the excluder that you May separate brood and honey in time.

NOW you are able To see, how much brood the Queen can produce and how big the hive Will be. That is the Idea.
 
Nothing can happen. When yield season is going To end, you May add the excluder that you May separate brood and honey in time.



NOW you are able To see, how much brood the Queen can produce and how big the hive Will be. That is the Idea.


Finski; when you add space for nectar to your hives with no QE, is it usually above or below the brood box? Manoeuvring the Q wothout a QE certainly makes me have to think.
 
After reading on here what others think (Finman etc) regarding Queen excluders I took the plunge with 2 of my 6 hives. They are on 6 and 7 boxes now after rape and look magnificent. Needless to say all my hives will be without excluders next year. Go for it - you won't regret it.
 
Tim are you saying that the two hives without the queen excluders are way in advance of the hives with and we're they similar in size when you removed them
 
Hi Tom.
They all started out the season on 2 national deeps with roughly similar brood levels. Those with excluders are on 2 deeps, excluder, then 2 or 3 supers (shallow boxes).
I had to do an A/S on the smaller excluder-less one last week and it was full of bees from top to bottom. I have only been keeping for 5 years so I still consider myself a beginner but I have never seen anything like it. The bees are nothing special, just the local mongrels.
Maybe it's just beginners luck! (And a cracking season!)
 
I'm sorry if this has already been covered but was wondering about going down this route myself. Just thought I'd ask if anyone has experience of what to expect if you did it at this time of year, and whether it can be accomplished on a national or is it best to go the Rose way?
 
.
Tim, Nice To hear that it shows its Claws. No One Else has nursed your bees but you.
To handle big hives needs skills. Nothing such comes for free or by itself.

What is important To big hives that they get Foundations during flow To be drawn. It hinders swarning

It is important too that extract capped honey and return combs to the hive that bees have place where to store nectar. Empty Combs/foundations over brood.

When brood box has frames which are almost full of honey, move them up to be capped and hive Foundations or empty Combs instead the brood box. But do that after biggest riot.

When good flow is on, big hive is mere mesh. But when blooming is over, hive arranges nicely brood and nectar. It is best that nectar is in the hive and not any more on field.
 
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Still not sure what to expect if I trail this method on a national. Could really do with feedback from others who have tried it.

It has nothing To do with hive type.

You limit laying with excluder, but If the Queen does not lay more, it Does not help. But then you see, how much it lays.
 
Still not sure what to expect if I trail this method on a national. Could really do with feedback from others who have tried it.

Hive type not important. The main difference is whether the boxes are the same size or different sizes. Finski uses all Langstroth medium IIRC; but Tim is using broods and supers.

One- size boxes can make a difference in things like demaree, splitting etc; but from the sound of it not much difference to this debate, provided you are supering and not nadiring.

Of course, if the queen can lay where she wants, 'super' is probably the wrong term, it's adding boxes.

.
 
I have a number of (national brood) boxes with drone foundation. I also have a drone trap of an empty frame in the main brood nest. When they had swarm fever they filled the empty frame with drone brood super-quick. Now they are leaving it alone, so I am seeing if the drone-brood box can act as a "soft" ceiling to the brood nest. I never see any point in trying to prevent drones; they are going to make them anyway and just mess up worker frames in the process.
 
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The only disadvantage I have found is the greatly increased number of hiding places for the queen. Hunting for her in a tower is fine - when you have docile bees and the weather is good....
 
Well inspected most of my bees today just fast split the double broods as the weather is bad today. So on the hive where I removed the queen excluder I thought just a quick look at the bottom super and as the weather has been not great the bees have obviously eaten some of the honey from the central frames and HRH has laid a nice small patch of eggs in the frame I checked. Not to bothered by this just as long as it does not get much worse and move into the next super.
 
I wimped out when one HRH reached box no. 4 - and put the QX back on....
 
The only disadvantage I have found is the greatly increased number of hiding places for the queen. Hunting for her in a tower is fine - when you have docile bees and the weather is good....

stop hunting it with smoker. if you handle the hive gently, the queen lays just under your nose. Black bee perhaso don't know where to run

usually the queen is in the upper brood box and no need to see it every tim
 

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