Queen frame trap

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There are other objectives!?

Not sure they are objective, more like excuses. Many of the beekeepers around me tell me they don't keep their bees for honey, or honey is not their main objective.
For this I read.. you are keeping our local vicious mongrels that rarely ever produce a surplus of honey cos they are useless and don't deserve hive space.
 
I think it is a waste of time arguing with eyeman. Clearly has his blinkers firmly in position and wishes to justify his thinking at any expense. I would suggest he is left to carry on and that anyone else reading this thread will see that there are better ways to control varroa without losing a huge amount of workers for a protracted period of time.

Never argue just discuss. Tried most ways of controlling varroa over the years and an OAV during a brood break does the business. I raise 50+ nucs each year with an induced brood break when introducing a queen. I monitor my main colonies for mites using an alcohol wash so can treat when necessary during the main season. Not sure why there is so much anti losing 2 weeks of brood in Aug/Sept? Use Apiguard and she can go off lay for 10 days, same with formic acid plus you risk losing your queen. How many monitor for mites after treatment- how many times have you heard " Oh I did treat them but they still didn't survive the winter"? Get a brood break then any treatment is going to be much more effective.
 
Not sure they are objective, more like excuses. Many of the beekeepers around me tell me they don't keep their bees for honey, or honey is not their main objective.
For this I read.. you are keeping our local vicious mongrels that rarely ever produce a surplus of honey cos they are useless and don't deserve hive space.

Over the years I've moved away from honey being my main objective. Not because there wasn't any honey. In fact the complete opposite; I was harvesting too much- more than I could process. I like to balance honey production, queen rearing and nuc production. The best was I've found to do this is to try and get most of my honey off early in the season leaving time for queen rearing in May and nuc production in June. This has worked for me for the last few seasons.
 
Not sure why there is so much anti losing 2 weeks of brood in Aug/Sept?

Can't see any problems then, but that is when the bees here are normally broodless for four or five weeks anyway, and also when the treatments are done, works well.
 
Our summer goes so, that at end of July yield is finish and there is not much flowers in nature on August. Nature prepares itself for Winter.

Professional beekeepers reduce the brooding at the beginning of July to one box, that bees do not rear brood with maximum speed in main yield.
In August bees do not have much to do, and maximum amount of emerged bees will be wasted, because there is no work to all and these do not go over winter.
 
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I understand that trap is meant to the beekeepers,who do not want to use chemicals in the hive or it is used during yield period.

One brood frame sucks mites to the combs. The cage limits the amount of brood that when you destroy the brood. To destroy more is wasting of bees' work and resources.

System destroyes worker bee brood...... If alternative is that mites destroy the whole hive.... Or mites destroy half of colony before clustering....

Such crying...
 
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I understand that trap is meant to the beekeepers,who do not want to use chemicals in the hive or it is used during yield period.

One brood frame sucks mites to the combs. The cage limits the amount of brood that when you destroy the brood. To destroy more is wasting of bees' work and resources.

System destroyes worker bee brood...... If alternative is that mites destroy the whole hive.... Or mites destroy half of colony before clustering....

Such crying...

I do believe that the original Mr Thrones instructions stated that drone comb should be used in the frame... which would possibly make some sense, would it not?

Nos da
 
I do believe that the original Mr Thrones instructions stated that drone comb should be used in the frame... which would possibly make some sense, would it not?

Nos da

Bees stop drone rearing at some time of summer. But mites go into worker cells when they do not have better alternative. Most of year year hive does not have drone brood.

But when you give to bees empty space, they draw such combs as they like..
 
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Bees stop drone rearing at some time of summer. But mites go into worker cells when they do not have better alternative. Most of year year hive does not have drone brood.

But when you give to bees empty space, they draw such combs as they like..

Lost the instructions that came with the trap... but remember it DID say to ONLY use drone comb... early in season !

Nos da
Sweet dreams my little snow fairy!
 
Lost the instructions that came with the trap... but remember it DID say to ONLY use drone comb... early in season !

Nos da
Sweet dreams my little snow fairy!

That is mad. You must build up the hives first early in season that hives are able catch yields. Otherwise the Job is childish. Right time is late season.

You know well that mites live in worker pupae most of the year. Mellifera is not cerana.
 
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That is mad. You must build up the hives first early in season that hives are able catch yields. Otherwise the Job is childish. Right time is late season.

You know well that mites live in worker pupae most of the year. Mellifera is not cerana.

I think that Thrones were referring to putting unlaid up drone foundation into the trap.....
never used it that way so debate is pointless!

Keep warm in your cosy igloo

Nos da
 

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