Queen Excluders

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Aggravated

New Bee
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Location
London
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National
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Hi

What do you think, metal or plastic?

The metal galvanised ones I understand can damage the bees, but the plastic ones are hard to clean and can possible get brittle and break.

Thanks
 
Agreed - more expensive but best. I found the Thorn*s ones a bit flimsy.
 
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Metal

framed wire

:iagree:

Doesn't seem to be a lot of confusion. Quality versus cheapness. You will preferably need a framed one, if top bee space.
 
No argument - framed wire by far the best. Easy clean and gentle on the bees.
 
Went through them all in a short space of time (starting with the T*****s wrong gauge plastic ones) and the framed wire are infinitely preferable. Much kinder to bees and beekeeper, and don't get stuck to things in the same way, and lift without 'pinging' which the bees hate.
 
Not tried plastic. I've just changed my slotted metal ones for framed wire ones. I didn't like the sharp edges or the bendiness :)
 
Hi
Would you have any idea's of where to get the frame wire, and more importantly the dimentions of the holes

Thanks

Paul
 
Hi
Would you have any idea's of where to get the frame wire, and more importantly the dimentions of the holes

Thanks

Paul

Yes, well the made up grid rather than just wire which would be hard work. But in the current climate I'd be worried that forum rules forbid me to help. Please send a PM if you want assistance with locating a supplier of the grid
 
Agreed - more expensive but best. I found the Thorn*s ones a bit flimsy.

Yes that’s right I was going to add but not the ones Thornes sell the joints on the corners are not up to the job and I suspect little or no glue.
 
... the framed wire are infinitely preferable. Much kinder to bees and beekeeper, and don't get stuck to things in the same way, and lift without 'pinging' which the bees hate.

:iagree: For a beginner with a standard National, this is likely the most important consideration.
The frame lifts the (rigid) wires a beespace above the top bars.
Whereas the perforated sheets (metal or plastic) rest on the frame top bars, and get stuck down onto them with propolis. Removing (and replacing) that type of QX without distressing bees is an awkward job for a novice - and its a job where the problem can be designed out, with a beespace-giving frame and a rigid (not saggy) excluder.
 
Not herd of these before, does anybody have the sizes of the slots so that I can ask around for the right material
 
Not herd of these before, does anybody have the sizes of the slots so that I can ask around for the right material
Dave Cushman quotes 4.22mm for a 'Herzog' wire type, presumably the original manufacturer of the particular model. I didn't fancy making from scratch and in a sales moment of 'seemed like a good idea at the time' I bought some wire grids without frames.

Yes that’s right I was going to add but not the ones Th**nes sell the joints on the corners are not up to the job and I suspect little or no glue.
Any suggestions for an effective way of framing a pre-made grid?
 
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Dave Cushman quotes 4.22mm for a 'Herzog' wire type, presumably the original manufacturer of the particular model. I didn't fancy making from scratch and in a sales moment of 'seemed like a good idea at the time' I bought some wire grids without frames.

Any suggestions for an effective way of framing a pre-made grid?

I bought some wire queen excluders without wooden frames, as I thought I would make them myself, in the end I contacted the supplier again and they supplied me the wooden frames to make up. It would have been cheaper buying them with frames in the first place. :rolleyes:
 
Not herd of these before, does anybody have the sizes of the slots so that I can ask around for the right material

The gap between the wires needs to be pretty precise so only workers can pass through.
Buy from a beekeeping specialist supplier - you won't find the right stuff in B&Q/Screwfix/etc.
 

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