Poly Nucs and Hives

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Having seen both poly Svienty nucs and MB poly nucs recently in the same apiary, I would take the latter any day. The former were falling apart with huge cracks in the poly. They also suffered major bird damage (blue tits not wood peckers)!. An eye opener. The hives might be different from the nucs however. I would be very disappoined if any of my poly equipment didn't have a similar life span (or longer) than my cedar alternatives. I see no reason to suggest they would be less and they are strong, very strong.

I use poly and wood.
 
Dovetail joints.

The gentle voice of our own rooftops on this video on Paradise Farm hive assembly. Definitely closed mortice joints.

http:

//www.

****************.

co.

uk/p/downloads/hive-assembly

Reconstitute to a usable URL substitutining MB's full name for the *****s

RAB
 
Thank you for all your replies, I am currently watching the assembly videos on MB's site
 
who is MB?

The clues are in lines 2 and 3 of post #77

You just put together the words Modern and Beekeeping

RAB
 
who is MB?

The clues are in lines 2 and 3 of post #77

You just put together the words Modern and Beekeeping

RAB

Search "MB" on beesource and you will get 100s of threads for Micheal Bush; which was my first assumption, but MB (Micheal Bush) doesn't have video's on his site. He does have a new book out though.
 
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Well I have some MB nucs and they are fine. Overwintered well.
They have a "lip" around the edge which makes them easier to slot together - no slipping. However, when you want to add e.g. an eke it is not so simple as a plain edge.

The other thing is that they do not have a roof space for fondant - hence the eke.

(I've just bought some more in the sale - delivered in 2 days)
 
sugarbush,

Search "MB" on beesource and you will get 100s of threads for Micheal Bush

Thats a problem for 'your side of the pond'. Search for beekeeping supplies and it is easily found here.

Regards, RAB
 
The MB nationals are even sturdier than the LS format - thicker walls and wide buttressing at bottom edges to fit over the flanges on the floor or box below.

very sturdy - only major weakness is that you have to be a little careful if you take them apart as the joints are so snug the lugs may snap. The poly is dense enough to stand up to airport baggage handlers!!!!

BTW sugarbush - if interested in what MB offer in the UK you're probably best dealing direct with paradise honey farms, finland.
 
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I've a poly Modern Beekeeping nuc (adapted for 14x12, thanks again RAB) which is fantastic and a standard ply nuc from elsewhere. Much prefer the poly for reasons sited above by others.

That said both my hives and spares are wood, which I think looks nicer (even allowing for cack-handed construction) but one of these days I will definitely try out a poly.

At the end of the day though I suspect the bees don't care that much as long as they have sufficient space and environment, the debate seems to be more about our personal preferences which is probably of less importance.
 
This is getting silly.

Lovely to see the prejudices being aired. LOL
PH

:iagree:

If we're discussing scientifics, we need the number of bees in the cluster, the necessary cluster temp (well documented), amount of food (honey and fondant) consumed and the fact that polystyrene insulates against cold but also does the same for heat.

Heat is the killer here and hence the travelling screens used in hive use in v hot climates.

Peter S
"The other thing is that they do not have a roof space for fondant - hence the eke. "

Take the 'conservatory out of the Mod Beek full width rapid feeder and use that for fondant. Very efficient!
 
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BTW sugarbush - if interested in what MB offer in the UK you're probably best dealing direct with paradise honey farms, finland.

Thanks for the info: I would love to do a side by side comparison with "our" Beemax, vs what is available to you. However the costs are prohibitive. Throw shipping in and I will be paying three times the cost of a wooden hive here:eek:
 
:iagree:

Peter S
"The other thing is that they do not have a roof space for fondant - hence the eke. "

Take the 'conservatory out of the Mod Beek full width rapid feeder and use that for fondant. Very efficient!

I'm talking about the nuc boxes.
 
:iagree:

If we're discussing scientifics, we need the number of bees in the cluster, the necessary cluster temp (well documented), amount of food (honey and fondant) consumed and the fact that polystyrene insulates against cold but also does the same for heat.

Heat is the killer here and hence the travelling screens used in hive use in v hot climates.

Peter S
"The other thing is that they do not have a roof space for fondant - hence the eke. "

Take the 'conservatory out of the full width rapid feeder and use that for fondant. Very efficient!

Ok I have looked to this and come with the calcs as with all scientifics there are some assumptions.

1) endothermic output 17w National comsuming the equivalent of 12.5kg of sugar in 150 days we get a endothermic(deliberate heating activity ) out put of 17w.
2) ectothermic output 5 w (heat put when they are lollling around) from 1w per Kg of bees we get 5w.
3) target temperature 34c (based on scientific papers reporting a bee in cluster brooding etc.
4) if the temp is below target the bees will commence endothermic heating. At target ectothermic. above target cooling or venting required by bee or beek
5) other hives will produce heat is proportion to the volume with respect the volume of a national hive.
6) the hive loses heat equally on all sides (not strictly true but we will assume this for the basis of this exercise)
7) brood box only considered

Thus we can calcluate for hive sizes and materials the range of external temperatures that the bees can choose to heat the whole hive space.
in particular we can see the temp at which cooling (vents evaporation) has to commence

for a 50mm polystyrene national temp range is from -0.2C to +23.9C
50mm polyurethane -17.3 to +18.9
25 mm polystyrene +14.3 to +28.21
25mm oak +29.8c to +32.8c
19mm oak +30.7 to +33.0
940mm(37") dia 240mm (9.5") thick walled hollow oak tree trunk -0.23c to +23.9c

So if you have a 50mm poly hive you might think to open the vents when the temp is above 23C
for 14x12 we get temps 2 -5 c different
 
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Ok I have looked to this and come with the calcs as with all scientifics there are some assumptions.

So if you have a 50mm poly hive you might think to open the vents when the temp is above 23C
for 14x12 we get temps 2 -5 c different

Assumptions don't work, we can all do that and other threads here have seen bees die of suffocation/heat stroke/starvation/etc as result.
Peter S
"I'm talking about the nuc boxes."

Room under frames for standard Lang at least.
 
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Assumptions don't work, we can all do that and other threads here have seen bees die of suffocation/heat stroke/starvation/etc as result.

assumptions dont work? - lets dismiss most science then, since its built on mathematical models with assumptions.
The mathematical models are then used to predict the future and then experiments are performed to test the models.
 
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I am too unless the discussion returns to practicalities.

I am sure there are forums to play science on.

PH
 
Come on Poly, it's all way over my head but none the less I'm sure science has a large central role to play in the subject - it must do.

Chris
 

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