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Placing apistan strips

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Skyhook 

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In my continuing battle against the bl**dy mites I've put in apistan strips, following the instructions as closely as I could.

I'm slightly worried in that he instructions say hang between the frames so the bees can walk on both sides- but theres only a bee space between the frames anyway, so I'm not sure if they can walk on them at all. Should I take one frame out and re-space?
 

Vergilius 

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Skyhook, I thought that you said yyou were using apiguard to treat your bees.





Ben P
 

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Normally 2 bee spaces between frames so they can work back to back.
(Under the top bars)
 

Heather 

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There is usually 2 bee spaces as they work back to back-the strips do fit in the usual seam. Dont mess with the frames or you will have chaos as they will infill- but it is getting a bit chilly for this Apiguard to be working now.
Have you done previous treatments and still having a serious drop?? If you have done a treatment and drop not severe now why not wait till December for an Oxalic treatment which isn't weather temp reliant.
 

Skyhook 

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There is usually 2 bee spaces as they work back to back-the strips do fit in the usual seam. Dont mess with the frames or you will have chaos as they will infill- but it is getting a bit chilly for this Apiguard to be working now.
Have you done previous treatments and still having a serious drop?? If you have done a treatment and drop not severe now why not wait till December for an Oxalic treatment which isn't weather temp reliant.
I'm not sure apistan is very temp. reliant. I did speak to the makers (same people that make apiguard) before I ordered it.

Yes Ben, I was treating with apiguard, but after 6 weeks didn't seem to be getting anywhere much, and the queen had stopped laying.

Latest update- hopefully I haven't done it too badly, as 209 mites on the board tonight!
 

Onge 

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Don't use that man made chemical crap. (selects for resistant stronger mites):rant:

Give them a drizzle of Oxalic acid (organic approved) at christmas.

You have already tried Thymol so they should be fine.
 

Skyhook 

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:xmas-smiley-033:
Don't use that man made chemical crap. (selects for resistant stronger mites):rant:

Give them a drizzle of Oxalic acid (organic approved) at christmas.

You have already tried Thymol so they should be fine.
As a horticulturalist I've come to feel that the organic/non organic distinction is a bit artificial (no pun intended). The OA is an exact copy of a plant substance produced in a factory; the apistan is a near but not exact copy of a plant chemical, made in quite possibly the same factory. Either will kill the bees if the dosage is exceeded. Oxalic will strip the skin off my hands if I don't use gloves. Even at low concentrations it's an irritant, but I'm supposed to pour it over them, in their eyes and everything.

I would much rather use nothing but I don't feel that's an option. Yes I know some people will disagree but there's just been a long thread about that and I think it's all been said.

I may OA at christmas as well- but with the mite load they seem to have at the moment, I'm not over confidant in them lasting long enough to hang they're stockings up. :xmas-smiley-033:
 

Onge 

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Skyhook

OA is a strong acid at the concentrations used will burn the skin. As far as I know the mites do not adapt to it. (It is also approved for organic beekeeping)

I was a bit ranty yesterday and was not having a go at you :)

I am also of the opinion that I would like to use nothing on them. I am trying foundation-less frames and OA only next year.

With a view to doing nothing a year or two later, depending on results.

Well thats the plan anyway and you know what bees are like :D
 

sawdstmakr 

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Skyhook,
Do you use a oil (cooking oil) tray under your hives. I just started BK this year and my first hive had a defective queen, deformed wings. By the time I discovered the problem and replaced her the hive was so week the beetles and mites had taken over. After intense web surfing i decided to build a screened bottom board with a oil tray. It works very well on both of my hives. The second 5 frame nuc that I bougtht from a different source had was only 2 and frames of bees and brood, very week ( I wondered why the BK moved 2 frames with 1 grab and then the other 3 at once when he did the transfer). In any case to make a long story shorter :0, I was able save the sceond hive due to the cooking oil that killed every mite and beetle that dropped off and there were up to 70 beetles in just beetles in a 3 week period. I did the "bees in the jar of powered sugar" test a month ago and didn't find any mites. I was able to get 90 pounds of honey off of the two hives that I have. I should say that the first BK replaced the nuc with a full brood hive with a second deep super drawen out. As far as I am concerned, the pan of cooking oil works.
 

kazmcc 

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I did the "bees in the jar of powered sugar" test a month ago and didn't find any mites.
Nothing to do with the topic I'm afraid, but this always tickles me for some reason. From what I understand, you have to shake the jar........:smilielol5:......what happens when you let them out? How long do you have to leave them before they decide they don't want to take revenge? Poor bees, I imagine they are livid! Hee hee.
 

MJBee 

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Skyhook,
Apistan strips HAVE to be removed after 6 weeks which if you put them in now means opening up at the end of November and again end of December to OA trickle.:(

As you know I have a high drop problem with 2 of my colonies after 5 weeks of Apiguard. I am going to keep all appendages crossed, OA between Christmas and New Year then Apistan as soon as it is warm enough to open the hives next Spring - if they have survived:svengo:
 

Skyhook 

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Skyhook,
Do you use a oil (cooking oil) tray under your hives.
Not as such, but if the varroa board is in I coat it heavily with cooking oil. They don't get far on that. If the board's out. they plummet 18" to a horrible death on the gravel.
 

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