Overwintering Techniques

[GaryH]

I’m in my second winter. I brought my first and only hive through last winter with a super on.
I sublimated that colony last winter with the super on
This winter I now have three hives; one double deep with insulation in the form of an old fleece stuffed in the pitched roof.
One BB with super on hefted heavy
And finally a caught swarm in a Langstroth (a fake flow hive present ) with eek containing fondant and uninsulated pitched roof. So all quite different trials.

I intended to sublimate to treat for varoa with OA will this make the national super frames unviable for honey next season?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I intended to sublimate to treat for varoa with OA will this make the national super frames unviable for honey next season?

no, certainly not

 

[ericbeaumont]

insulation in the form of an old fleece stuffed in the pitched roof

Is the CB sealed?

 

[GaryH]

Is the CB sealed?

Yes Perspex board

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Is the CB sealed?

are the 'vents' in the roof sealed?

 

[GaryH]

are the 'vents' in the roof sealed?

No it’s home made they have 30mm holes with insect guard. I’m guessing you’re going to recommend I block these off.
I have put the floors in to cover the Varoa mesh in the UFE bottom board entrances too

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

No it’s home made they have 30mm holes with insect guard. I’m guessing you’re going to recommend I block these off.

yes - pretty pointless things

I have put the floors in to cover the Varoa mesh in the UFE bottom board entrances too

Mine are left open all year - even at the higher apiaries and the bees come through winter fine.

 

[GaryH]

yes - pretty pointless things

Mine are left open all year - even at the higher apiaries and the bees come through winter fine.

That a big open draughty space without the varoa board in. Logic and physics would suggest the space will be heated by the colony easier with less draught.
Perhaps I need one of your hardy queens

 

[ericbeaumont]

30mm holes with insect guard. I’m guessing you’re going to recommend I block these off.

Yes, and the CB holes!

You haven't said whether the CB is sealed, but unless it and the roof vents are closed the temperature above the CB will be cooler and warmth rising through the CB hole will condense and turn the fleece soggy in no time.

Dead air between sealed CB and sealed roof is a good insulator but it can be improved by fitting a piece of 50-100mm PIR to the CB top; forget the fleece.

PS: aim for commonality of kit and get rid of variants; you may have four colonies now but may easily increase, so ease your apiary workload and decide which to go for. A flat roof makes a good stand for boxes in season.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

That a big open draughty space without the varoa board in

no it's not, maybe you should apply a bit of logic, not surmise, it’s all about the balance of air resistance and the buildup of buoyant air in the hive - as long as the UFE has decent deep sides to it

 

[GaryH]

Yes, and the CB holes!

You haven't said whether the CB is sealed, but unless it and the roof vents are closed the temperature above the CB will be cooler and warmth rising through the CB hole will condense and turn the fleece soggy in no time.

Dead air between sealed CB and sealed roof is a good insulator but it can be improved by fitting a piece of 50-100mm PIR to the CB top; forget the fleece.

PS: aim for commonality of kit and get rid of variants; you may have four colonies now but may easily increase, so ease your apiary workload and decide which to go for. A flat roof makes a good stand for boxes in season.

Interstitial condensation- yes I’m familiar with the warm roof/cold roof theory

Yes, and the CB holes!

You haven't said whether the CB is sealed, but unless it and the roof vents are closed the temperature above the CB will be cooler and warmth rising through the CB hole will condense and turn the fleece soggy in no time.

Dead air between sealed CB and sealed roof is a good insulator but it can be improved by fitting a piece of 50-100mm PIR to the CB top; forget the fleece.

PS: aim for commonality of kit and get rid of variants; you may have four colonies now but may easily increase, so ease your apiary workload and decide which to go for. A flat roof makes a good stand for boxes in season.

Many thanks for your note back. The crown board is 3mm Perspex No holes.
I agree with your point about interstitial condensation the warm air in the hive will condense on the inner surface. The outer surface with the old fleece covering it will have cold air from the outside so in theory the condensation will only occur inside the CB where the Perspex is cold where insulation is compromised.
Your advice about standardising equipment is spot on. I was going to stick to Nationals. However I got the Langstroth from my son. It’s a flow hive. Not sure if I like Langstroth better than nationals now. The pitched roof was a home made experiment soon to be re used as a bird feeder roof.
I will then use a standard flat roof and properly insulate the colonies. I’ll also place Varoa boards and entrance reduction
Thanks

 

[GaryH]

Updated following good advice from you guys:

I have now found some 100mm celotex in a skip and made insulated and felted roofs.
This has improved the integrity of the roof and the sides regarding water ingress and also insulation will have improved survival chances as the colony move up towards the stores. Their heat will not be lost through the crown board and roof
The condensation will now mostly be on the colder surfaces at the outer edges of the colony box and not dripping on the frames. The bees can make use of this convenient moisture to process their honey.