Langstroth advice

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Why don't they make proper boxes?
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It dates from 100 years ago. When they started serious beekeeping back then they found the end panel on boxes of kerosene ( it was delivered in boxes of metal square shaped cans) was almost exactly (just a whisker less) than the size of a Langstroth hives end panels.

So they made their hives using these and made the frames a fraction slimmer and about 2mm less deep to fit the materials they had available.

The size stuck to this day in common useage there.

If you oder wooden Langstroth hives or frames from NZ companies (have no direct experience with Australia but assume it to be the same) you have to be careful to specify the sizes as they offer both options...the slightly smaller variant or the international standard. For more info if interested try the website of VL Smith / Prime Pine Kaikoura (its the same company).
 
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When Paradise honey sells its boxes, even if they are langstroths, they however have have various box and frame dimensions by countries.

IT is easy to buy normal measures " local, native, national". Longhives and what ever.

I have wooden 9 frame boxes, 50 y old and 10 frame polyboxes. Pine boxes I keep as summer boxes and as store.

Britain has so much different hive styles, that it makes no sense to invent your own. But guys invent all the time new stone wheels.
 
G'day...EPS and polycarb boxes have been around quite some time
in Australia with varying degrees of success, and rejection.
My observation of those used in numbers has seen modification
for use being necessary. The reasons behind that need can be
found in statements as those quoted below, advice which reflects
a poor understanding of apiarys in Australia.
EPS - and polycarb in some locations - should be the future
globally for broodchambers. To achieve that marketshare the
manufacturer would do well to market a grade of box for each
climate type.

Bill

--
http://paradisehoney.net/en/beebox-beehive-manual/
Using the BeeBox Hive in Hot Climates at more than 32°C
In hot climates, the hives should not be exposed to continuous
sunlight. The hives should be set up in some distance to houses
and other objects, which radiate heat and block cooling winds.
When the temperature stays permanently over 32°C in the shade,
the plastic sheet should be removed from the top of the hive and
replaced with a propolis sheet or another bee tight grid.
Together with the reversed top, this will cool the hive in the entire
top area.
 
Abelo do a 6 frame nuc and separate bodies so you can stack vertically like in a tree. I've used them successfully like this for the last couple of years.
I'm also looking to go to poly for brood+half, but want to use my existing wooden supers in the summer. Wasn't aware of the non-lipped honey paw boxes...
 
Brood and a half is ugly.

If you use a poly super for the first one and timber for the rest they will go up quicker.

PH
 
Abelo do a 6 frame nuc and separate bodies so you can stack vertically like in a tree.

...

However that "tree" has more cold surfaces than one langstroth box. Energy loss is bigger in a tree model. IT has 4 frames against cold walls.
 
However that "tree" has more cold surfaces than one langstroth box. Energy loss is bigger in a tree model. IT has 4 frames against cold walls.

I wouldn't disagree, but the tree model is better for drawing comb than a flat box.
 
I wouldn't disagree, but the tree model is better for drawing comb than a flat box.

Bees draw combs when they need them. They do not mind about tree models.

And langstroth is not flat. Shape has been taken from champagne bottle box.
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