knot in a super

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psafloyd

Queen Bee
Joined
Sep 27, 2010
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Location
London/Essex
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National
Number of Hives
Probably about 5/6 at the moment
Having had a closer look at the supers I oredered in the T sale, I noticed only one with a problem.

One of the lugs in a joint has a knot that pretty much detatches the lug from the rest of the board. I would have sent a pic along but the item has gone to storage for a month or so. In any event, it appears to affect just a single lug of the joint.

I have considered gluing said item, nailing together and gluing and clamping some more, but does anyone think this might not be strong enough?

If not, are there any other options? Perhaps puting a piece of wood on the outside of the joint on each side or even using a a steel 90 degree angle to screw the outside of the jjoint together?

Any advice gratefully received.
 
the lug from the rest of the board.

So a side piece. The only thing that lug really does, after assembly is to seal against the next box (and resist the hive tool levering the boxes apart)? It is good for location during assembly but not the end of the world. The smaller panels sit in the rebate, the sides can be screwed to the smaller panels and also to the side bars (better than nails IMO). Nothing that can come apart. Nothing that cannot be replaced, unless you don't feel confident enough when dealing with wood.

I reckon assemble the box, fill the hole and pilot drill (and countersink) a screw through the lug and secured into the side bar. Fill over the screw heads. Job done.

Or is it not as simple as that?

Regards, RAB
 
the lug from the rest of the board.

So a side piece. The only thing that lug really does, after assembly is to seal against the next box (and resist the hive tool levering the boxes apart)? It is good for location during assembly but not the end of the world. The smaller panels sit in the rebate, the sides can be screwed to the smaller panels and also to the side bars (better than nails IMO). Nothing that can come apart. Nothing that cannot be replaced, unless you don't feel confident enough when dealing with wood.

I reckon assemble the box, fill the hole and pilot drill (and countersink) a screw through the lug and secured into the side bar. Fill over the screw heads. Job done.

Or is it not as simple as that?

Regards, RAB

No, I am not overly confident with wood, having no role models that demonstrated such skills as a child and never having studied it (had to drop it to keep doing art).

However, I can do as you suggest and treat as components, fill and make good, so I'll give that a try.
 
Remove and rebuild with filler? I'm sure the bees wouldn't mind, though I agree, natural wood is so much more appealing.
 
if it were me, i'd just do best to glue and screw/nail the original lug in place - the actual ends can/will be screwed and glued to the sides and the top/bottom rails so the actual box will be sound even with the lug missing.
 
I would give T****** a ring. They were very helpful when they sent four upper rails rather than 2 upper and two lower rails with one super in recent seconds sale. I suspect they will simply send a replacement part forthwith. Worth a quick call.
 
this was discussed in another thread - thornes seconds are usually just a batch made from inferior cedar NOT rejects from usual stock ANN they do specifiy that knots etc won't be in critical places etc.
so a replacement may be the easiest way to go.
 
this was discussed in another thread - Th**nes seconds are usually just a batch made from inferior cedar NOT rejects from usual stock ANN they do specifiy that knots etc won't be in critical places etc.
so a replacement may be the easiest way to go.

Ah, thanks.
 
psafloyd,

lug from the rest of the board Post #1

one of the bars/dovetails/lugs. Post #7

?Which?

The bars are neither here nor there when fixed to the smaller sides. There as lifting handles and a wider piece for the frame rebate, or as a sealing lip to the box below.

I would say the only thing that might be important is to seal the repair/filling to prevent water ingress.

Seconds are either first quality 'duds' - knots in the timber, a shake or slight twist, etc - or they are in cheaper wood and may have the same faults as the 'first' rejects.

It's just a question aesthetics and/or practicality - with first quality I expect to get both, with seconds, just the latter.

Regards, RAB
 
Surely it must be simple enough to square the hole off with a chisel and cut a piece of wood to fill the space by gluing and/or screwing? No tools at all?
 
i had some like that in a batch of supers, i sorted all the worst bits from them and made the rest up as good supers with £hornes nails, no glue

the final iffy super made of all the iffy parts I made up with glue and thin screws in pre drilled holes (knots to hard for screws if not drilled)

the top bars that had a knot right on the tenon joints or in the long side of the top bar were also drilled and screwed from the inside of the short wall into the long side of the top bar,

if the knots in the tenons fails it is therefore all still stable, to be honest it will problalby last longer than the rest, as i took more care making it
 

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