- Joined
- Jul 23, 2009
- Messages
- 36,881
- Reaction score
- 17,518
- Location
- Ceredigion
- Hive Type
- 14x12
- Number of Hives
- 6
So, Motobiman, how do you prevent your bees swarming?
Barring bad luck with virgins mating I'm struggling to think how people lose bees so long as they've followed basic varroa control guidelines, am I missing something?
So, Motobiman, how do you prevent your bees swarming?
The question is off topic so PM me and I'll give you the link.
The question is off topic so PM me and I'll give you the link.
No training, no wish to learn, fear of stings, no treatment (I can succeed where thousands have failed!) and buying bees on a whim - now moved on to something else.
That is what I have seen in 6 years!
Why not just start a new thread "how motobiman stops bees swarming"? We can all enjoy your skills that way.
Surely every hive swarms if you do not take care of it.
No need to ask.
Not shirley it seems if you get some of the Carfax or Bishopricks non swarming hybrids?
Nos da
Then they walk somewhere to the bigger home. They do not want to live in such place where nobody love them.
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Do you know non walking hybrids? I bet that you don't.
Näin on näreet
And I don't consider the amount of honey each hive produces is the ONLY measure of the colony,s success.
It would be interesting to hear how you judge your colonies success.
Is it how much honey per colony per annum you have not extracted?
Or years a colony is headed by the same queen?
The word I used was EXTRACT.
And I don't consider the amount of honey each hive produces is the ONLY measure of the colony,s success.
In my experience moderately strong colonies (say a minimum of 7/8 frames of brood in a single National) will see off most wasp ventures. Small ones , say 3/4 frames of broods or weak nucleus's often don't have the numbers of bees to defend themselves.Good question.
At the moment I am smarting from losing a colony to a sustained wasp attack that I was unable to prevent because I was away for three weeks right when the wasps reached their peak.
It's the first year in a new apiary and the landowner does not pick or clear up apples and pears from four trees nearby.
I had hoped the windfalls would attract the wasps and protect the hives but seems maybe I was wrong.
Good question.
At the moment I am smarting from losing a colony to a sustained wasp attack that I was unable to prevent because I was away for three weeks right when the wasps reached their peak.
It's the first year in a new apiary and the landowner does not pick or clear up apples and pears from four trees nearby.
I had hoped the windfalls would attract the wasps and protect the hives but seems maybe I was wrong.
In my experience moderately strong colonies (say a minimum of 7/8 frames of brood in a single National) will see off most wasp ventures. Small ones , say 3/4 frames of broods or weak nucleus's often don't have the numbers of bees to defend themselves.
It's down to bad management if you have weak colonies succumbing to wasps and perhaps slightly naive to think they will prefer apples to honey.
I would imagine a lot of those nasty commercial bee farmers are rolling their eyes at your latest post.
Yep probably but I certainly don't care what they think.
Hope you feel better now though.
Not rubbing anything in. I've lost nucs and weak colonies to wasps in the past myself. I suspect most beekeepers have. It's part of the learning curve....don't have weak colonies come wasp time. I'll bet next year you will unite any to a swarm or whatever's around. And perhaps also realise, from your own experience this year, that your local association experts appear to be giving out very suspect advice.OK rub it in why don't you, mea culpa I accept that and the suggestion that fermenting fruit downwind of the apiary should/would attract the waps came from our local association experts.
Next year I will try for bigger colonies by combining the swarms with proven colonies.