Identification of cells

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Location
Mansfield
Hive Type
National
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First time beekeeper. A nuc was transferred into our hive 4 weeks ago. Not sure what the cells are in this picture. Could anybody help identify them? Also should I be concerned that they’ve not moved onto the new frames?5a660dba-e190-4fe4-87d4-3d129f574995.jpeg
 
they are all either capped or uncapped cells of honey with a few cells of pollen.
How strong was the nuc when you hived them four weeks ago?
Are you feeding them?
By what I can see, the colony was pretty small and could have stayed in the nuc for a while longer. They are now in a cavernous space and won't start drawing more comb until it gets warmer and the colony starts to expand and needs more room.
Tell us what the configuration of the hive is at present.
 
Looks like a fair bit of brace comb above the top bar. Was there more than a bee-space above them?
As JBM says they are now in a big space. They would probably do better if you dummied them down eg with fat dummies made from PIR. Just add maybe one or two frames at a time depending how full they seem.
 
Food, is there any other type of cell that may be brood? If not was the queen definitely mates? The brace comb on top of the frame is probably where your feed holes are on the crown board, cover them up with a bit of plastic. They are just letting valuable heat out.
Can you post a picture of another frame?
 
We are feeding them sugar water 1:1.

We can see larvae, so queen must be mated.
 

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That's not a very big colony to be in a full size hive - I'd dummy them down to just the frames of brood, the frames of stores and let them build up a bit - release a frame at a time as they build up. Indeed, I would have kept them in the nuc ...
 
The expert beekeeper who brought the nuc to us put it straight in the hive. We could only go with her judgment.
 
expert made up of two words Ex (has been) spurt (a drip under pressure)
who decreed her an expert? with that small a brood area, and the amount of bees they certainly didn't need to be put in a full hive.
 
The expert beekeeper who brought the nuc to us put it straight in the hive. We could only go with her judgment.
Well if she was delivering a nuc and wanted her boxes back, and you only had a full-sized hive it's kind of understandable. It would have been nice if she had suggested dummying down.
 
Ok, so let's help you out a bit here, your hive is fine, or will be once it has grown a little,
Shot one shows worker brood cells that are capped
Shot 2 has brood on the left and food on the right ( note the different colours)
3 is brood that has mainly emerged
45&6 are all food and 7 is drawn comb
If you look closely in frame 2 or 3 you may find a tiny white dot at the bottom of the cells and this is an egg. If you have eggs you know the queen was there in the last three days and this saves you searching for a queen.
Try and leave them be for the moment, feed 1:1 sugar :water to encourage them to draw more frames. Keep them as warm as possible while the weather is cold and enjoy watching them fly in and out. They need to build up so be patient. Patience is the hardest skill to learn
 
I think you can stop feeding for now, drawing comb will be the last thing they will do in these temperatures, if you carry on feeding they will take it down and pack it into any available space before drawing any more comb - and that means you are depriving the queen laying space, and brood needs to be the priority at the moment.
 
Jacques they need to be dummied down to the six current frames they partly cover or placed back in to the nuc again until four or five of the frames have brood on both sides and one food left. From your pics there are two sides maybe three of a frame with patches of brood though it isn't wall to wall so it is just patches .

However as they are in a BB now probably best to use a dummy board and push the six frames to the entrance and place a dummy board behind them to reduce the roaming area and heat loss (infact looking at the pics I would be inclined to remove the frame with most food and leave five frames), if you have any PIR or polystyrene place that behind the dummy board for insulaiton.
As above with a nuc once she has laid up fully four or five frames then one can introduce another frame or two to be drawn out and so on. One won't have to worry to much about store clogging from a flow as there aren't enough bees or brood to make use of it yet.
 
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I think you can stop feeding for now, drawing comb will be the last thing they will do in these temperatures, if you carry on feeding they will take it down and pack it into any available space before drawing any more comb - and that means you are depriving the queen laying space, and brood needs to be the priority at the moment.
Fair comment.
 
should I be concerned that they’ve not moved onto the new frames?
Jacques, you've been sold a pup.

The photos tell a dismal story, that you have at best 2 or 3 half frames of brood, and that with a sketchy brood pattern; the other frames are partly honey and partly empty. There is hardly any pollen, without which bees cannot rear brood. One frame of drawn comb is empty!

A good nuc would have solid slabs of brood on nearly all of about two frames, with another four frames holding more brood, pollen and honey. The box would be stuffed with bees and raring to go; as it is, you have been sold a colony that will be unable to draw foundation in that brood box, and would be hard pushed to do so if it were put back in a nuc box.

Take the advice given so far and reduce the nest volume; if it were mine I would put it back in a 6-frame poly nuc, put the frame of drawn comb (in which the qiueen will lay) next to the sealed brood and put the stores frames on the outside.

Bees are expert controllers of nest heat and humidity and yours cannot hope to begin to manage in anything other than a small space; upgrade to a brood box only when the bees are rammed in the nuc. The first photo was taken today and took me by surprise; I'd better get a move on and put them in a BB tomorrow, before they decide to swarm. The second shows another nuc ready to be upgraded to a full brood box.

Nuc full .jpgFull nuc.jpgFrame with bees .jpgBrood .jpg

The third photo shows a frame of brood covered in bees, and the last, another frame which has had the bees shaken off, showing a decent frame of sealed brood. In the top left and right corners you will see sealed honey, and between it and the brood is pollen in variety. You will, of course, expect to see what is known as BIAS: brood in all stages.

Not sure what the cells are in this picture. Could anybody help identify them?
Now we get to look at the other side of the coin: it is fair to say that while you have been sold a poor nuc, the question is, why did you buy it?

Have you attended a beginner's practical training course? I doubt it, because you would then have gone to the expert beekeeper's apiary with the ability to assess the nuc before buying; the course would have taught you to recognise BIAS, sealed and unsealed stores, pollen and much more. Moreover, your trainers would quite likely have had good nucs to sell to you, and back-up to support you.

In other words, your innocence has landed you with a sub-standard nuc and unless you propose to make a fuss about it to the seller, you must make the best of it. Get it back into a poly nuc, feed it 1:1 slowly until it has a strong foraging force, forget about honey this year and begin the long journey to get the colony strong for next winter. In the meantime, sign up for a local beginner's course and check out these links:

Buy this: Haynes Bee Manual
https://www.youtube.com/c/BlackMountainHoney
https://www.youtube.com/@TheNorfolkHoneyCo/videos
http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/textlinks.html
 
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Jacques, you've been sold a pup.

The photos tell a dismal story, that you have at best 2 or 3 half frames of brood, and that with a sketchy brood pattern; the other frames are partly honey and partly empty. There is hardly any pollen, without which bees cannot rear brood. One frame of drawn comb is empty!

A good nuc would have solid slabs of brood on nearly all of about two frames, with another four frames holding more brood, pollen and honey. The box would be stuffed with bees and raring to go; as it is, you have been sold a colony that will be unable to draw foundation in that brood box, and would be hard pushed to do so if it were put back in a nuc box.

Take the advice given so far and reduce the nest volume; if it were mine I would put it back in a 6-frame poly nuc, put the frame of drawn comb next to the sealed brood (in which the qiueen will lay) and put the stores frames on the outside.

Bees are expert controllers of nest heat and humidity and cannot hope to begin to manage in anything other than a small space; upgrade to a brood box only when the bees are rammed in the nuc. The first photo was taken today and took me by surprise; I'd better get a move on and put them in a BB tomorrow, before they decide to swarm. The second shows another nuc ready to be upgraded to a full brood box.

View attachment 39776View attachment 39777View attachment 39778View attachment 39779

The third photo shows a frame of brood covered in bees, and the last, another frame which has had the bees shaken off, showing a decent frame of sealed brood. In the top left and right corners you will see sealed honey, and between it and the brood is pollen in variety. You will, of course, expect to see what is known as BIAS: brood in all stages.


Now we get to look at the other side of the coin: it is fair to say that while you have been sold a poor nuc, the question is, why did you buy it?

Have you attended a beginner's practical training course? I doubt it, because you would then have gone to the expert beekeeper's apiary with the ability to assess the nuc before buying; the course would have taught you to recognise BIAS, sealed and unsealed stores, pollen and much more. Moreover, your trainers would quite likely have had good nucs to sell to you, and back-up to support you.

In other words, your innocence has landed you with a sub-standard nuc, and unless you propose to make a fuss about it to the seller, you must make the best of it. Get it back into a poly nuc, feed it 1:1 slowly until it has a strong foraging force, forget about honey this year and begin the long journey to get the colony strong for next winter. In the meantime, sign up for a local beginner's course and check out these links:

Buy this: Haynes Bee Manual
https://www.youtube.com/c/BlackMountainHoney
https://www.youtube.com/@TheNorfolkHoneyCo/videos
http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/textlinks.html
Sadly, we are probably shutting the door after the horse has bolted

"The expert beekeeper who brought the nuc to us put it straight in the hive. We could only go with her judgment."

"First time beekeeper. A nuc was transferred into our hive 4 weeks ago."

It's really great advice for the OP but I think we are helping him now to try and retrieve the situation ... the colonly is small - probably hindered in its development by being transferred into a box that was far too big four weeks ago ... with lousy weather in the meantime. For all we know it may be a timber box, with gaping holes in the crownboard and probably no insulation ..

There are more questions here to still be answered and hopefully we can get the OP to a place with their colony that they can both enjoy.
 
For all we know it may be a timber box, with gaping holes in the crownboard and probably no insulation ..
I don't follow what you mean Pargyle.
Isn't the box in question the timber one in the photos in post #1 and post #5?
 

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