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Thanks. So on that basis, the £189 extractor, as the cheapest "substantial" one I can find easily, will be fine?

because that isn't what this thread seems to be suggesting.

So that would mean I really need a budget of £350-£400 for a worthwhile extractor for 6-10 hives. Now the recommendation was the one I linked to I think? Any preference for the drill or the manual?
 
Good question about the drill, SunnyRaes.

I'd like to know from those with experience, does it place too much strain on a normal (ie a decently robust and powered, variable speed) drill?

Dusty
 
Substantial drills would cost a least half the price of a decent extractor !
Vm
 
Any preference for the drill or the manual?

I got the one with the drill but with hindsight (hobby beekeeper and all that) I would have the manual.
I think the cradle in the Giordan is set too low so that each batch has to be emptied every time. Otherwise the frames catch ( even ever so slightly) and the drill can't cope. I've got smoke out of it a few times....:sorry:
I know I know....I should keep an eye on the level but it would be nice to run the thing for a couple of supers before emptying.
I've blown a few frames too :hairpull:
AS VM says....a decent drill costs half as much as an extractor.

PS I might ask if they can sell me a hand crank so I can convert it
 
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I got the one with the drill but with hindsight (hobby beekeeper and all that) I would have the manual.
I think the cradle in the Giordan is set too low so that each batch has to be emptied every time. Otherwise the frames catch ( even ever so slightly) and the drill can't cope.
:facts::facts:
 
EricA, leave the honey gate open, when spinning. With a honey bucket underneath!

Make sure to keep an eye on the level of honey in the bucket it is a sod to clean up when it overflows.
 
I'd guess many people would already have a decent drill (we have) so it wouldn't be so much of a problem unless of course there is a good chance it could destroy the drill! But that's a good point re the frames if the drill could cause it to spin faster
 
erica, leave the honey gate open, when spinning. With a honey bucket underneath!


oh God....how simple is that!!!!

BUT
Is there a filter that could cope with the amount of honey spinning out?
I like to filter mine only the once with a double nylon strainer then leave to settle.
 
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Just put the bucket under the extractor with the double filter on top. Adjust the tap on the extractor so the honey will go through. Keep clearing the wax out of the top part of the filter.
 
I have 8 hives and when looking at an extractor I took the view that I would only ever buy one extractor. I did look at these cheaper ones and having used a manual extractor from my club, I wanted to make things easier for myself so went for a motorised one. It was expensive but I should sell enough honey this year to pay for the extractor.

I did my first extraction yesterday and in less then 2 hours I took 4 supers off two colonies, extracted and put the supers back on the hives in less than two hours.

I mounted the extractor on a frame with lockable castors which allows for it to be moved easily and also it raises it so a large honey bucket with sieves can be put under. Honey gate is left open when extracting.

Very pleased with the purchase and so my advice is not to scrimp on an extractor. It is a job where you want to make it as easy as possible.
 
Very good advise above. I bought and sold 2 manual extractors, made a bit of money on them then bought an electric one. Yes they are expensive but well worth it.
 
I bought a P**k Bee Supplies 4 frame radial for £380 (FinL went 1/2's) 2 years ago and it is great but neither hubby nor I are now fit enough to use it and so I am now looking to motorise it - waiting to see what they will charge for doing it.

Would love to buy new, larger motorised, but selling honey here is something of a hit or miss. A large local bee-keeper has everywhere sewn up - and the one place he hasn't? The Manager is a bee-keeper, so I cannot be sure to sell all my honey; nor an income to buy kit with!!
 
Just put the bucket under the extractor with the double filter on top. Adjust the tap on the extractor so the honey will go through. Keep clearing the wax out of the top part of the filter.

Thanks Veg
That should do it :)
 
I bought a P**k Bee Supplies 4 frame radial for £380 (FinL went 1/2's) 2 years ago and it is great but neither hubby nor I are now fit enough to use it and so I am now looking to motorise it - waiting to see what they will charge for doing it.

Would love to buy new, larger motorised, but selling honey here is something of a hit or miss. A large local bee-keeper has everywhere sewn up - and the one place he hasn't? The Manager is a bee-keeper, so I cannot be sure to sell all my honey; nor an income to buy kit with!!

Can you not sell from your doorstep because of this? Getting a free website up or listed on someone else's will probably get you enquiries.
 
Thanks. So on that basis, the £189 extractor, as the cheapest "substantial" one I can find easily, will be fine?

because that isn't what this thread seems to be suggesting.

Not really. Personally I hire an extractor from my association. Some people share with friends, some crush and strain, some hunt around to pick up a good second-hand one.

If you decide to go and buy a new one, then make sure it's a good one.


.
 
Can you not sell from your doorstep because of this? Getting a free website up or listed on someone else's will probably get you enquiries.


Doorstep is out, as I live in a cul-de-sac in a quiet village...and not sure how to go about a website...a picture of a jar of honey...would I get any locals? P&P would make it expensive honey...
 
In the end it is a choice between expense and convenience.

I had a manual 4 frame tangential for a number of years with 4 colonies. I then sold it on ebay and got a 9 frame stainless steel radial in a sale, but still manual. A couple of years ago I got the motor kit but it was SO EXPENSIVE. But -- it is so much more convenient! I did look at a DIY motor conversion but getting the speed right without a belt or chain drive (dangerous) seemed a nightmare.

Personally I would recommend a motor for a 9 frame but I would not have thought it cost effective for a motor on anything smaller.
 

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