Hive insulation

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Beekeeperjim

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Hi everyone, going into my 1st winter i would apperciate some advice on keeping my bees warm through the winter. My current set up is 2 National hives with Roof, Crown board, Brood box, under super and OMF. i am thinking about installing a layer of Kingspan insualtion directlly above the crown board (25/50mm), Should i cut slots to allow the hive to breath with rising moisture through the vents ?. Also should i fit the correx floor to prevent draughts coming up through the OMF? i am also considering a cozy hive wrap, is this too much ? for context, i am based in the South, Hampshire / Surrey border and the hives are in a a reasonbaly shelterd position.

Any advise appreciated to help my girls survive thier 1st winter with me
 
Should i cut slots to allow the hive to breath with rising moisture through the vents ?. Also shoudl i fit the correx floor to prevent draughts coming up through the OMF? i am also considering a cozy hive wrap, is this too much ?
No
No unless there is a decent gap at the back and you are prepared to clean it every couple of days
No. I use them but I am in wales
 
cut a piece of kingspan which fills the whole of the roof space, glue it in and keep it there throughout the year, no vents needed so these should be blocked off, probably by the Kingspan. Also make sure your feeder holes are covered over (unless feeding)
No wrapping required
 
Rising moisture takes heat with it. Allowing it to escape makes no sense. If the top is warmer than the sides ( insulation) you won’t get any condensation onto the bees.
If you are going to use a cosy…..But I wouldn’t bother where you are…. Make sure there is more insulation on the top than the sides.
 
Bees will almost certainly block up any vent-holes above them if they can. That tells you all you need to know; A vent in the roof will mean that an insulation there is largely useless.
I see cozies advertised, but they will be almost useless unless the roof is well insulated too.

Correx boards will probably get blown away unless you fix them in position somehow.
 
cut a piece of kingspan which fills the whole of the roof space, glue it in and keep it there throughout the year, no vents needed so these should be blocked off, probably by the Kingspan. Also make sure your feeder holes are covered over (unless feeding)
No wrapping required
Can I use the Porter bee escapes to block the feeder holes? TIA
 
If you look at your house you will notice that no areas are completely sealed, Kingspan for instants is left loose to allow for essential air flow. The insulation will still do its job if you leave a small gap to allow air movement.

If you are worried about moisture then use a carpet tile above a crown board, it works for me.
 
Can I use the Porter bee escapes to block the feeder holes? TIA
Porter bee escapes, if you use them indeed, will get completely gummed up with propolis and a pain to clean! In any case, they have a bee (air) way through them. Unfix them and cover the holes in the crown board with plywood squares, as has been said, your bees will ‘glue’ them in place and you can easily crack them off when necessary. For insulation, l use some well fitting PIR with the raw edges taped up on top of the crown board inside a shallow eke with enough room for feeding fondant if needed. Make sure you have enough ballast on the roof as the eke will not be ‘glued’ on.
 
If you look at your house you will notice that no areas are completely sealed, Kingspan for instants is left loose to allow for essential air flow. The insulation will still do its job if you leave a small gap to allow air movement.

If you are worried about moisture then use a carpet tile above a crown board, it works for me.
If you look more closely at your house you will notice that the insulation is completely sealed and that there are (should be) no air gaps. Likewise, if you plan to insulate any part of a beehive it's counterproductive to have any loosely or incompletely fitted insulation.
 
Can I use the Porter bee escapes to block the feeder holes? TIA
It's abouth the only thing they're good for - but the answer is no - they allow the passage of air through them. Best place for Porter escapes is in the (recycling) bin, clearing bees down from the supers is another subject, but for that, buy/make yourself a rhombus clearer board
 
It's abouth the only thing they're good for - but the answer is no - they allow the passage of air through them. Best place for Porter escapes is in the (recycling) bin, clearing bees down from the supers is another subject, but for that, buy/make yourself a rhombus clearer board
Yes, I've seen these used & agree about PBEs!
 
If you look more closely at your house you will notice that the insulation is completely sealed and that there are (should be) no air gaps. Likewise, if you plan to insulate any part of a beehive it's counterproductive to have any loosely or incompletely fitted insulation.
That is totaly wrong information. Having been a property developer for almost 30 years and still own a number of properties I can categorically say ventilation is essential, look up building regs if you are not sure.
 
That is totaly wrong information. Having been a property developer for almost 30 years and still own a number of properties I can categorically say ventilation is essential, look up building regs if you are not sure.

I'm glad I don't live in one of your properties. 🥶

A building should be completely sealed between interior and exterior to the extent that some arrangements require an additional, continuous vapour barrier inboard of the insulation. Even a "cold-bridge".... a piece of building construction which is exposed on the inside and outside of a building would be designed out these days.

Depending on the design of the insulating envelope, it is often necessary to have a continuous air gap external to the insulation but PIR is always tightly jammed between studwork or ratfers....look up the Building Regs. even though you're sure. ;)
 
I'm glad I don't live in one of your properties. 🥶

A building should be completely sealed between interior and exterior to the extent that some arrangements require an additional, continuous vapour barrier inboard of the insulation. Even a "cold-bridge".... a piece of building construction which is exposed on the inside and outside of a building would be designed out these days.

Depending on the design of the insulating envelope, it is often necessary to have a continuous air gap external to the insulation but PIR is always tightly jammed between studwork or ratfers....look up the Building Regs. even though you're sure. ;)


I thought eaves ventilation was required by law for some housing?
 
I thought eaves ventilation was required by law for some housing?

There is a requirement to provide ventilation in a roof void above the insulating layer. This also applies if there is an air-gap between the insulating layer and any external cladding. Funnily enough, this is to avoid the risk of the formation of condensation as previously practised with beehives.
 

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