Hive Insulation for Winter

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highgate

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I know it is a little early, but I was researching wintering hive insulation and have been looking into a variety of different approaches.

I came across many references to Derek and Elaine Mitchell's talk/ research on hive insulation/ warming and was wondering if anyone knew where I could get my hands on this?

Without opening up a proverbial can of worms, I was thinking of using Cork insulation (20 or 30mm) on the top of the hive, possibly on the inside of the top of the roof to allow winter feed access if required.

I did notice reference to people using the insulation on the outside of the brood box, as well as noticing that Thornes was selling cork insulated SN4s https://www.thorne.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=8022.

What do people on this forum mostly do?

Thanks in advance for all your help, as over the last few months I have found it immensely useful and has greatly improved my experience.
 
In the first year I spent ages messing around with insulation on the roof, the following years I simply replaced them with poly (roof), all good and bees seemed happy.
 
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What do people on this forum mostly do?

Go skip diving (with permission of course) on building sites, look for Celotex or Kingspan insulation board (sometimes called PIR) .. 50mm on top of the crown board under the roof will make a huge difference to the over winter warmth in the hive. I have an empty super on the top of all my Paynes Poly hives with at least 50mm of insulation board in there all the year round.

Bill Bielby (well respected Yorkshire Beekeeper) said in his 1972 Book - Home Honey Production :

Page 43

"Losses of heat mean losses of honey;
thus, good insulation of hives is
essential. Through air currents carry
away heat and neutralise the benefits
of insulation. Just like every other
animal, the well-being of bees depends
on warmth and comfort, protection from
the elements and an adequate supply of
food. "

and Page 44

"For most economical wintering, hives
should be highly insulated and com-
pletely draughtproof . "

50 years on and there are still some beekeepers who remain unconvinced of the benefits of insulating and draughtproofing hives.

If you can't find it in a skip ..

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Kingspan-TW50-Insulation-Board---1200-x-450-x-50mm/p/180440

Not going to break the bank.

Cork set in frames .. total waste of time. Heat does not dissipate that much from the sides of a cedar hive .. most heat will leave via the roof and any joins between boxes .. why do you think bees propolise everything prior to the onset of winter ? .. they know the score and what's good for them.
 
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Brood nest temperature is some 34c. Ambient in the UK is usually less. Open mesh floors were researched coupled with insulation over the crown boards. Floor mats is very good,easy to machine and very warm.

PH
 
I have no real expertise on this subject other than my blundering beginner example....

I got my first NUC last year and set them up in a national Maisemore poly hive, let them fill out the comb and build stores. The hive sat on a pallet in my field exposed to the elements over winter, closed up with a brick on top and mite board fitted. It got rained on, snowed on, blown by the wind and by spring the bee's were raring to go.

The poly hive is most likely to thank much more than I can appreciate... I will be using them from now on....unfortunately I have never owned a wooden hive so its a bit of a confirmation bias as I have no evidence to compare it to....

All the best!
 
Wooden hives get 50mm insulation on the crown board all year....or I dispense with the wooden roof and use Abelo roofs
They get a 50mm PIR cosy in winter.
Most of my hives are poly so need no extra insulation
 
Last winter I had three cedar hives and two poly hives and there didn't seem to be much difference in their performance. One poly and one cedar ran very low on stores and one poly and one cedar still had plenty of stores left in spring. I do live in a warm part of the UK though.
 

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