Hive construction

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dado cutters are realy only to be used in a bench mounted spindel cutter/ moulder because or its force when spinning round, they could be used in a large heavy bench saw, but i would not want to use one in a light weight set up, you would be safer using a router or an inverted router in a proper or home made router table.

but there is no laws stopping you buying one and using it at home
 
dado cutters are realy only to be used in a bench mounted spindel cutter/ moulder because or its force when spinning round, they could be used in a large heavy bench saw, but i would not want to use one in a light weight set up, you would be safer using a router or an inverted router in a proper or home made router table.

but there is no laws stopping you buying one and using it at home

Hence my comments about a wadkin saw bench, all cast iron construction, and very heavy! Trust me.

Dado blades should really only be used by very experienced carpenters/machinists. The force they produce is phenominal and if you get a kick back, its gonna hurt, so i always feel that on heavy work, 3/4" and 3/4" wide blade or more, you should use a jig where the work is clamped in.

But, if your after really pro cuts that are the same everytime, you cant beat a dado. Or a horizontal spindle moulder...
 
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Its not actually illegal to use a dado set if you have a saw that will take it, but it is illegal to sell a new saw in europe that can take a dado set. You can still buy dado set legally, freud make them, cmt, and various other blade manufacturers. Its just one of those silly laws.

I know full well what a dado set could do to you, if it come loose or some other accident and as has been mentioned on the woodworking forum, you cannot use saftey gaurds whilst cutting with one of these.

Personaly i think a chainsaw is far more dangerous, but they are not illegal to buy or use. AND there are lots of inexperienced people that buy and use them.

Quite frankly i am suprised that there are not a lot more one legged people in the world.
 
The problem with dado sets is that you cannot use a splitter with them - thus you are at considerable risk of the workpiece coming back in your face at 100 mph+. Sensible people stand out of the way, but Health and Safety don't allow for sensible people. I'd just set up an appropriate tool in a router and make the joints that way, but if you've got a router, dovetails are just as easy....
 
Its illegal to sell new saws in europe that will take a dado because of the laws on machinery breaking ,a dado cannot be safely stopped in rapid time without exerting great force, and risk of dado flying off.
 
Took rae's advice and bought a cheap router and table...saving time and getting 100% acurate rebates....i think I will try finger joints on the roof.
 
......i'd make a ply to start but save up for a brood box .......

My thoughts exactly, I'm making my own ply 14 x12's this winter with the intention of replacing them in the next few years with cedar and then using the ply's for spares/swarms/comb changes etc. I'm happy with ply for supers as they are not sat out all winter.
 
dado cutters are realy only to be used in a bench mounted spindel cutter/ moulder because or its force when spinning round,

but there is no laws stopping you buying one and using it at home

I suppose that the law try to protect the user like car safe belt.
 
I regularly use a set of dado cutters on a dewalt radial arm saw.Very safe if fitted with the appropriate guard.Safe also because the blades are pulling the workpiece towards the fence not pushing it away.The dado set is first class for cutting the rebates in the end walls that house the side walls,also useful for cutting the tenons on the top and bottom rails before cutting the rebates to house the frame ends and to provide the bottom bee space.These rebates are cut using a small table saw.Mortices to house the rails in the end walls are removed using a 1/2" heavy duty router fitted with a 3/4 x1 1/2 long cutter with a home made jig on a router table.If you batch out the hive components it is simple to make multiple hives performing one operation at a time thro' each batch.
 
I believe that Resinite and Cascamite are either related or one and the same.

My father used Cascamite in 1960 to make a boat (albeit a model). The cascamite once made up (in small quantities) was good for maybe an hour or so if my memory serves me.

He used to leave it pinned up overnight for curing to full strength.

I'm sure HP will be along shortly to confirm or deny the above.
 
Hombre,

You are right, if it is a polymerising glue like cascamite. I was going to respond, but it was asked of Pete, so I didn't bother. The single most advantageous property is that it is a filler glue, not a thin film, so mating of the joints is not quite so critical, shall we say. 3-4 hours for gentle handling (depending on the temperature, of course), but overnight was better from the point of view of items needing a cramp on the diagonal to achieve square dimensions. I have used quite a bit in the distant past (over 20 years ago), but usually had someone assembling parts.

It can be the cause of dermatitis, more so than PVA.

Regards, RAB
 
thanks guys for the answers. curious about it. I might buy some and try it for hive assembly
 
I believe that Resinite and Cascamite are either related or one and the same.

My father used Cascamite in 1960 to make a boat (albeit a model). The cascamite once made up (in small quantities) was good for maybe an hour or so if my memory serves me.

I believe the brand Cascamite (beloved of boat- and beehive-builders) has passed into history and become a generic name. I think it occurs in a range of names now (e.g. Extramite, Polymite), each with a slightly different composition although still doing the same task. I personally use Aerolite 306 for this purpose (also for certain musical instrument repairs). It's a very forgiving glue - fills at bit, flexes a bit, withstands all sorts of awkward weather conditions (including being completely submerged) and I've never known it to crack. Axminster & others sell it: http://www.axminster.co.uk/aerolite-aerolite-306-glue-pack-prod21177/

Both glues are powders that need water/acidified water adding. Like many useful adhesives, both come clearly into the "nasty chemicals" category, and you don't want to get the powder into your eyes, although I don't believe you could get as screwed up by it as with, say, Evo-Stik! (mmm, that dreamy smell it used to have:rolleyes:). I've certainly never had any trouble using either, and they're amazingly effective. Wouldn't use it on an eke though: unnecessary bother.
 
This is where your Spanset straps come into play to justify their winter existence.

PH
 

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