Hive construction mistake - advice please

[oliver90owner]

wilderness,

Presumably you are using wire queen excluders? I do. The slotted ones will need a robust frame to stop them sagging; the wired ones are OK with a bee-way batten stuck on or . One down-side to top bee space, but I don't need to peel it off the frames either.

But I am finding I am using them less and less, probably only when the broodnest has peaked and I want to prevent her ladyship from getting to the honey area. Certainly not to confine the brood nest to a certain size; shape perhaps, but not size. No Q/E will mean there is a 16mm gap and I am not into cutting across with a cheese wire to get in.

The draught excluder strips would need to be fixed on; The beehaus dividers and dummies have the edge reinforcers/grippers the same as that joke of an under-board does. Pushed right on and the divider would be just under hive width, so they will be popped in and spread as wide as necessary. Hopefully no small gap, so very little propolis! When removed, they can be separated and scrubbed up. I originally just wanted 4 for my Dartingtons, but sourced some of the correx-type material at a reasonable price.

Regards, RAB

 

[wilderness]

wilderness,

Presumably you are using wire queen excluders? I do. The slotted ones will need a robust frame to stop them sagging; the wired ones are OK with a bee-way batten stuck on or . One down-side to top bee space, but I don't need to peel it off the frames either.Regards, RAB

Yes, I use wire excluders with some 9mm ply edging. The edging is cut with a circular saw so that I get a ~3mm slot to put the excluder in and ~3mm either side.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Hi, I've just finished building my flat pack National hive, a 14x12, a standard brood and one super. However I realised that I've made a mistake and fitted the side panels (with the frame runners) too high. I read the instructions way back when but then didn't bother reading them again, and have aligned the top of the panel, rather than the frame runner, with the 7/16" mark from the top.

Similarly there is extra space between floor and brood frames, will this now encourage the bees to build comb there?

I can easily fix the problem, rout or dremel the panel back to the correct height, but will the 1/4" gap at the base of the side panel lead to problems with propolising or comb? Should I fix a thin strip to compensate?

Simon

if you take off the metal runners, then the frames resting on the wooden edge would be at the correct height..so use without the runners ( a bit more propolising) and re inforce the edge with a straight metal strip if worreid about damageto wood ( you could use it and if it doesnt work router out next year)

some cheep supers especial ply ones are biult to your modify configeration anyway ( ie no runners)

extra bottom space in the brood to floor does not matter to bees, they may biuld drone comb but they do anyway.the space can 9mmto 30mm brood to floor without the bees doing anything drasticcly different

super extra bottom space...you will need 4 supers anyway,,,just make the bad one the last you use, if you use it anyway, it will not be on the hive long to be a trouble with too much brace comb in 1/4 extra space by the wall..that will be the least of your worries

 

[oliver90owner]

Going to try another method this year. I will stick one on with silicone (cover with cling film, or the like, and lay a box over until set) See if it reduces sticking the boxes together or helps to get it apart rather. PTFE might be better! I don't need any space below the excluder.

Flat crownboard over either the brood or a super saves me making and fixing edging battens, too. I do have some with edging - not all was changed at the same time wrt bee space!

Regards, RAB

 

[SimonB]

Thanks to everyone for their replies, some things to consider. I will update the thread with what I decide to do and how.

 

[Ewok]

I did the same when making my second super - thought I knew how to do it after making the brood & 1 super & didn't read the instructions.
I guaged a line the correct distance down the wall & using a small circular saw & a pad saw cut along the line to remove a strip. I then replaced the rail and stuck the strips back on the bottom of the sides.

A bit untidy but the bees don't seem to mind.