Have I a problem with my Mead

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Thanks for that comprehensive advice Pargyle - much appreciate it!!

So when you measure the SG periodically do you always return the fluid back to the demijohn or throw it out?

I always put it back as long as your measuring tube and your hydrometer are clean it's not doing any harm. I syphon off enough of the must into a 100ml measuring tube to float the hydrometer which I have already put into the tube when it was dry. When you are in the final stages of fermentation and you have topped your DJ up to the bottom of the neck you can place the hydrometer straight into the DJ as there will be enough of it above the neck to lift it out after measurement.
 
Filling a demijohn full, nearly to the brim, is asking for trouble! Especially with mead which goes off like a rocket, or a volcano for the first few days.

Once you are confident of your recipe, or are adept at checking SGs at known volumes, and correcting for differing volumes, you can part-fill the demijohn initially to avoid the eruption of froth from the airlock, at the start of fermentation, and dilute to the full volume later.

The alternative - a simple one - is as Pargyle says. Start it off in a bucket and transfer to demijohn(s) after the first rush of fermentation subsides.

Unless using a rubber bung and airlock in good condition, there can easily be a small leak, so the generated CO2 can leak to atmosphere without going through the bubbler (now the route of higher resistance to flow). When fermentation has slowed sufficiently, the demijohn can be topped up to the neck. I often don't bother with an airlock - I simply seal the neck with clingfilm and an elastic band, pierce the film with a needle and then cover that with another large piece of clingfilm, so that gas can leak out.

Long term storage is a different matter - the DJs are fitted with safety stoppers. A small air space is then important, unless you can guarantee a very constant temperature, as the gas above the liquid will expand and contact with temperature changes, exchanging CO2 with air which is not good for the wine or mead.

RAB
 
My carboy stopped for a while as well but hadn't cleared so it's still going and a couple of weeks later I actually saw another bubble. But .995 sounds like it has reached the end but I would wait until clear.
 
Someone told me you can get a refractometer calibrated for brewing & wine making. Has anyone used one and are there any advantages using it compared with using the traditional SG hydrometer?
 
You can buy different refractometers for different densities. Like honey or wort. What put me off would be the need for calibration. Although I will buy one for honey. But when it comes to wort I am fine with my floater. But advantage of a refractometer is that you need just a couple of drops which minimises contamination and wastage
 
Thanks. All very useful advice in hopefully perfecting this art.
 
Now ... I've got a question ... whilst not wishing to hijack this thread there is a fair bit of interest so it may ring a few bells elsewhere.

Judging by the weight of my hives at present I going to have a fair bit of ivy honey left in the frames when spring springs and obviously I will be taking them out - or at least some of it out. The question I have is ... has anyone made mead from Ivy honey - I dislike the taste of Ivy honey - but, there again, I don't like the taste of Elderberries but by the time they've been fermented and left for a year or so the resultant wine tastes nothing like elderberries on the tree .. so ???? Will ivy honey mead round off ?

Also .. the frames are going to be unable to be extracted in the usual manner as I know the honey is already crystallised ...I don't really want to destroy the comb if I can help it as it's all foundationless and made by my bees. Can I uncap it and wash the honey out with warm water to make mead ??
 
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I can't comment on Ivy honey but I have used a small bath before to wash out the remnants of crystallised OSR honey from frames with great success. It's always been very diluted so it's down the plug hole for me but in your case, if you had a container large enough to soak a frame and shake out, plus a heating element to keep the warm at a constant luke warm temp, so the cell structure doesn't collapse, it should work fine.
 
Just made some Ivy mead, have not tasted it yet, but the honey had an awful taste. I had a problem even getting the ivy honey out of he extractor. I heated the room to 85oF just to get it out of the extractor. It is now set in the jars so hard I doubt if it would be easily dissolved. I would suggest placing a frame at a time in a bowl with a little warm water swish it around to mix, once the honey has been removed repeat with another frame.

The problem I see is you will not know how much honey you have extracted unless you weigh the frame before and after.
 
I can't comment on Ivy honey but I have used a small bath before to wash out the remnants of crystallised OSR honey from frames with great success. It's always been very diluted so it's down the plug hole for me but in your case, if you had a container large enough to soak a frame and shake out, plus a heating element to keep the warm at a constant luke warm temp, so the cell structure doesn't collapse, it should work fine.

Yes ... I was thinking of a plastic frame size box fillled with water with a thermostatically controlled heater I have for brewing beer in there to keep the water at a steady ivy honey dissolving temperature ... whatever that turns out to be ? Basically stick five frames in after decapping and walk away for a while. The resultant liquid making the base for my mead ... if I need to add a bit of honey to bring the SG up ... there's always Lidl 99p stuff !
 
"there's always Lidl 99p stuff"

It should always be English honey !!!
 
I bought some Greek dark cheap honey long time before I started beekeeping. The honey and mead was a waste of time and money. Too strong in flavour. Now I wash the cappings and the froth from the extractor for my mead. So pargyle you can make good mead even you are mean and stingy
 
I bought some Greek dark cheap honey long time before I started beekeeping. The honey and mead was a waste of time and money. Too strong in flavour. Now I wash the cappings and the froth from the extractor for my mead. So pargyle you can make good mead even you are mean and stingy

when you consider the effort the bees put in to colecting and then ripening the stuff, not drop or a smear should be wasted... Mead from washing all the kit and bits and pieces is not being mean and stingy but thoughtful of the value of the "stuff"
 
Of course Derek. You should see me how thin I can cut skin of the belly when I cure meat.
 
My cappings melomel (with raspberry) made summer 2013 is turning into a wonderful drink.
I try not to waste a drop of honey after all that hard work; a lifetimes hard labour on the knife you throw into the washing up.
 
If doing the primary fermentation in a bucket how then do you introduce air into the mixture, as I thought that was essential?
Also, do your give it a stir during those 4 days of primary fermentation in the bucket?
Lastly, does one normally use 4lbs of honey - mixed in one go at the start.

I'm about to start my 2nd batch hence the questions.
This
 
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If doing the primary fermentation in a bucket how then do you introduce air into the mixture, as I thought that was essential?

You leave the lid ajar ... not a sealed bucket. You don't have to introduce air into the mixture you just need to make sure that the yeast, which is a living organism, has sufficient oxygen to thrive - it does not need a lot. It's one of the reasons for using ordinary tap water as that contains dissolved oxygen - if you used distilled or bottled water there is going to be less oxygen in it.


Also, do your give it a stir during those 4 days of primary fermentation in the bucket?

I give it a good stir when I mix it up but after that the yeast is best left to get on with it - should be no need to stir it again. Most yeasts prefer not to be agitated. (Like I said earlier there's a lot of analogies between beekeeping and winemaking !
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Lastly, does one normally use 4lbs of honey - mixed in one go at the start.

Depends on the recipe you are using and what alcohol level and dryness/sweetness you want at the end in your finished mead - I tend to go more by the specific gravity ... mixing enough of the honey with the water to give me the starting gravity I want. Because honey is a very concentrated sugar you can start it just about wherever you want. The problem is that most wine yeasts will run out of steam because of the alcohol level in the must before all the sugars have been converted to alcohol - so if you start the gravity too high then you will end up with an over sweet mead - which may be what you prefer. There are some yeast available for making dessert wines that will allow you to get up to an ABV of over 16% (Pretty strong stuff). I prefer a mead with about 11% ABV and slightly on the dry side and I adjust the starting SG to give me this and I try to finish the mead at about 1.01 naturally, although you can stop the fermentation with a campden tablet.

So ... sorry this is a bit of a technical answer ... if you don't like the tecky stuff then the answer is start it off with 3lbs and hold some back until the initial fermentation has finished and then add the rest of the honey in stages a bit at a time and watch for when the fermentation stops. At that stage taste it and use whatever honey you have left to adjust the sweetness and flavour to your own taste.

 
Got it!! thank Pargyle.

I got a starting SG of 1090 so, judging by what I have read, I'm in the right ball park. I will attach a tag and note the SG on a weekly basis, as you recommended. Many thanks.

BL
 
Got it!! thank Pargyle.

I got a starting SG of 1090 so, judging by what I have read, I'm in the right ball park. I will attach a tag and note the SG on a weekly basis, as you recommended. Many thanks.

BL

If it gets down to 1000 you will have a fairly dry mead with about 11-12% ABV. Should be fine .... Once the fermentation has completely finished rack it off the sediment (lees) and top the demijohn up to the bottom of the neck, cork it up and leave if for as long as you can ... certainly 6 months ... before bottling. It should clear nicely on its own and it will be a rounder flavour by the time you come to drink it.
 

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