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I think they have plenty of nectar, stores and pollen. I arranged for a frame of pollen/stores to be next to the frame of grafts. I've also been adding frames of sealed brood so they should have enough nurse bees. So it looks like it's my grafting that's the issue - guess I'll just need to keep trying :)

Do you wear specs? I wear varifocals and a headband magnifier which can feel a bit weird while focusing on near objects. I just use a cheap Chinese grafting tool so nothing special, although I do select one that is pliable - some can feel a bit stiff to me.
As others have said, try to select the smallest worker larvae you can. Beyond this, it's difficult to offer advice. Just stick with it.
 
Try every witch way and you will find what works for you and your bees.... could be which way.....

Wish you success... it is a shame more beekeepers do not attempt to rear their own queens instead of importing from wompoopooland or wherever!
 
Quite. I have only been grafting for about 3 years. Started off with about 25 % acceptance, which really chuffed me. Now up to 35-40%. Still loving it. If it is absolute failure (0%) as it was when I demonstrated for my general husbandry cert ( laugh), you can Easily set up another round.
I know my main problem is my grafting technique, but I shall keep practicing
 
Do you wear specs? I wear varifocals and a headband magnifier which can feel a bit weird while focusing on near objects. I just use a cheap Chinese grafting tool so nothing special, although I do select one that is pliable - some can feel a bit stiff to me.
As others have said, try to select the smallest worker larvae you can. Beyond this, it's difficult to offer advice. Just stick with it.

I don't wear specs, but I do use a headband magnifier for grafting. I have a selection of grafting tools and find the Chinese one easiest to use. The larvae I choose are really small - sometimes I wonder if picking larger ones with more royal jelly would be better.
 
I don't wear specs, but I do use a headband magnifier for grafting. I have a selection of grafting tools and find the Chinese one easiest to use. The larvae I choose are really small - sometimes I wonder if picking larger ones with more royal jelly would be better.

Try a 000 fine brush... again smallest larvae you can find into a spot of Royal Jelly ( store in Eppendorf tube in fridge... warm before using!
 
Try a 000 fine brush... again smallest larvae you can find into a spot of Royal Jelly ( store in Eppendorf tube in fridge... warm before using!

I like the prime with royal jelly idea. The larvae always look very dry after I've grafted them. One of my hives is currently trying to swarm - I'll harvest some RJ from cells in there and give it a go.
 
After crafting bees clean royal jelly away, what you put there and then they make new jelly.

- what I have seen in my craftings.

Craf into swarming cells. You will get fat queens.
 
I like the prime with royal jelly idea. The larvae always look very dry after I've grafted them. One of my hives is currently trying to swarm - I'll harvest some RJ from cells in there and give it a go.

As Finman says, if your cell raiser is strong enough, they'll be all over those cells as soon as you put them in. If you aren't seeing this within a minute or two, I'd say your cell starters aren't strong enough.
People find different grafting tools work best for them. If you find one that works well for you, stick with it. It really doesn't matter. The key point is to make sure the cells are kept warm and fed copiously.
 
The method I use doesn't need a finisher colony. A single brood Langstroth box will nurse 30 grafts until they are sealed. Most of the time a well fed/well stocked queenless colony will accept them all. I don't know why more people don't do this. It is so much easier- particularly for people with fewer hives/less experience. At the end, I either give them another box of sealed brood that has been above excluders for 10 days, or, I break the colony up to make nucs. It couldn't be simpler!
You guys using the starter-finisher are making hard work for yourselves IMHO.

I am going to graft for the first time this year and am really interested in this way of raising my queens in a Q- hive rather than messing around with starter and finisher. What is your prep & process please B+
Do you just remove the queen into a nuc and add more nurse bees and capped brood? Or use just as is? Do you knock down QCs on the original frames on set days etc? Sorry, More info the better please for a newbie at this like me....lol
 
I am going to graft for the first time this year and am really interested in this way of raising my queens in a Q- hive rather than messing around with starter and finisher. What is your prep & process please B+
Do you just remove the queen into a nuc and add more nurse bees and capped brood? Or use just as is? Do you knock down QCs on the original frames on set days etc? Sorry, More info the better please for a newbie at this like me....lol

To be honest, Michael Palmers YouTube presentation tells you everything you need to know...although I do some of the later stuff slightly differently.
I collect frames of sealed brood with any bees occupying the comb in one of two ways (it doesn't matter which as you accomplish the same thing: a brood chamber full of sealed brood above a queen excluder)
1. raise frames of open brood above a queen excluder on their own colony and move them to the brood box above a queen excluder after 10 days
2. collect frames of open brood and put them in a brood chamber above a queen excluder then wait or 10 days.
The point is that at the end of 10 days, you have no eggs/larvae in that brood chamber (if you do, a queen has somehow been transferred into the box which is no good).
As Michael explained, you have to move the queen-right parent portion and put the queenless nucleus portion (that was above an excluder) on the site formerly occupied by the parent colony - shaking all the bees off the frames and making completely sure there is no emergency queen cells in the box (a queen excluder between the floor and the brood box ensures that a queen returning from a mating flight can't get in after that).
OK. So now you have a hopelessly queenless brood box full of sealed brood and workers on the site formerly occupied by the parent colony. You insert a frame of pollen in the middle and leave a space for a frame containing your grafts....no big difference so far!
You insert your grafts and let the bees cover the frames. I can't stress enough how many bees should be in this box. There should be so many nurse bees in there that the graft frame won't drop down. It just sits on them and descends as they move out of the way ....Michael demonstrates that here.
This is where the starter-finisher is different from the way I do it. In the starter-finisher, you transfer started cells out of the cell-starter after 24 hours into other queen-right colonies above a queen excluder with frames of open brood on either side and expect this to nurse the cells until they're sealed...and they will, but, you need several finisher colonies for each batch of started cells. I don't do that. I use the same "cell starter" to nurse the cells until they are sealed...then I move them into an incubator until they emerge when I mark them and introduce them to nucs (sealed with queen excluder if I intend to instrumentally inseminate them or open if they are surplus to my needs and I just want them to open mate).
You might think: why on earth does he do all that? Well, think why people use starter-finisher colonies. They want LOTS of started cells (which creates a demand for LOTS of finisher colonies) over a sustained period, possibly all summer long if they add more frames of emerging brood. So, it's a numbers game. Ask yourself, if you really need 2-300 sealed cells? I you do then use starter-finisher colonies. If you don't, consider allowing the same queenless "starter" to raise the cells until they are sealed (a "cell raiser"). There is another reason I do it this way. That is, the diet of a queen larva is not the same as the diet of a worker larva either in composition or quantity. The grafts have everything they need in a cell raiser but moving them to a finisher means they have to share the food produced by nurse bees with worker larvae. Why would you do that? It makes no sense if you are trying to produce the best quality queen cells you can. So, I leave them in the cell raiser until they are sealed, then I move them to my incubator because all that cell raiser can do for the cells is keep them warm. An incubator can do that and I can find other uses for the cell raiser (the nurse bees are approaching the end of their nursing stage and transitioning to other roles within the hive. Of course, I could add sealed brood and add another cycle of nurse bees if I wanted to do it again, or, I could break up the cell raiser and use them to form nucs
 
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Thanks B+ for the comprehensive explanation. What I don't understand is what all the sealed brood is for. Presumably, once the grafts have been sealed and removed from the cell starter to your incubator (ie in about 5 days), much of the sealed brood is still sealed brood since it is sealed for 13 days - is it there just to keep the nurse bees happy?
 
Thanks B+ for the comprehensive explanation. What I don't understand is what all the sealed brood is for. Presumably, once the grafts have been sealed and removed from the cell starter to your incubator (ie in about 5 days), much of the sealed brood is still sealed brood since it is sealed for 13 days - is it there just to keep the nurse bees happy?

Don't forget that brood is above a queen excluder for 10 days and the queen works out from the centre when she lays so a lot of it is at the point of emerging.
There are lots of things that worker bees do. Each job is timed at a particular point in its life-cycle (see: https://www.dummies.com/home-garden...tanding-the-role-of-the-worker-bee-in-a-hive/ ). So, it's important to have a continuous stream of emerging brood which is supplied by the sealed brood. The vacated cells also provide space for nectar storage but a frame of foundation helps to satisfy the wax-building desire. It also prevents cells from being webbed together (I would put it a frame or so away from the cells by removing an empty comb).
The adult bees can do nothing for the sealed brood except keep them warm (and feed them as they emerge) so, pretty much, all of their attention should be directed to feeding the cells and keeping them warm. If they are not completely covered with nurse bees, something is wrong.

When the sealed cells are moved to the incubator (very carefully), I can either set it up for another batch or use the brood in nucs. I use full-frame nucs so I have a continuous need for brood frames as the virgin queens emerge. If I don't need a nuc (which is rare), I can add the whole lot to the top of another hive and they will merge. Nothing goes to waste.
 
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Thanks for all that info B+ That will help me a great deal in the coming weeks.
 
Yes, thanks B+ all very helpful.

It looks like I need to beef up my cell starter-finisher with copious nurse bees.

I will also experiment with RJ priming. At the next grafting session, once my cell builder is ready, I will prime half the cells with a spot of RJ and leave the other half dry to see if it makes any difference.
 
As far as I can tell the reason for priming with jelly is for when you are using a paintbrush, metal grafting tool, piece of grass etc. (ie not the Chinese one). If there is a puddle of jelly in the cell cup then the grafted larva sticks to it and is easily transferred. In hot countries people prime cups to prevent drying out of larvae but that's not likely to be an issue here.

With the Chinese grafting tool you are already moving the puddle of jelly so the priming wouldn't help. I have read (some research paper, can't remember where) that what Finman says is correct - they remove the jelly you give them and replace with their own.

For me the thing that helps most with grafting is a dark room & a good head torch and magnifying glasses. Also, I find it easier with dark comb. If you don't get the larva at the first attempt, move on 'cos that one is probably damaged.
Many beekeepers seem to graft with the frame on their steering wheel in their truck. You just have to keep trying until you find what works best for you.
 
Many beekeepers seem to graft with the frame on their steering wheel in their truck. You just have to keep trying until you find what works best for you.

I used to sit in the backseat of my car to graft. However, I bought one of these grafting trays last year. It rests on the steering wheel (I'm not sure if he adapted it for other frame sizes after my feedback but mine only works on Langstroth frames)


Remove spaces
http://dcsgadgets.blog spot.com/p/beekeeping-gadgets.html
 
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That looks fantastic!

It works pretty well.
The beauty is that it leaves both hands free so I can adjust the lighting to suit the situation.
Adjusting the angle of the steering wheel helps too. I just have to remember to put it back the way it was before I drive off.
I'm pretty sure anyone with basic carpentry skills could make one from plywood for National/14*12/Commercial/etc frame size. It helps stop the steering wheel from getting sticky at the very least!
 
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I vaguely remember seeing research many years ago saying that wet grafting was waste of time so I every bothered with it. If someone as cack handed as I am can get 88.8% success with dry grafting then I think it says it all. If you take on board that there is no such thing as too many nurse bees then you are mostly there. Also, have a look at a Marburg swarm box for collecting the aforesaid nurse bees. I have never had one but have meant to make one for long enough. I see no issues with them unless someone else has tried them and found problems?
https://poly-hive.co.uk/recourses/beginner-resources/diy/marburg-swarmbox/

PH
 
There is a school of thought which insists you get better queens when they're raised by the supercedure principle, hence sliding out the cloak board once the cells are accepted 24-36hrs after grafting to allow them to be finished in a queenright unit.
Page 56, Queen Bee: Biology, Rearing and Breeding by David Woodward
"Approximately 24-36 hours after grafting, block the rear entrance to the cell builder hive. Slide the Cloak board out. This is important! If the Cloak board is left in for more than 36 hours small queen cells will be produced. "
 

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