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jimmybee

House Bee
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
202
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Location
uk
Hive Type
Langstroth
Number of Hives
A FEW
Every time I have grafted the bees are removing larve from the queen cups?

They are one day old very small C shape larve that im grafting.
Ive added the grafts to the split's after 9 days when all the brood has been capped but still no luck any help please?
 
Every time I have grafted the bees are removing larve from the queen cups?

They are one day old very small C shape larve that im grafting.
Ive added the grafts to the split's after 9 days when all the brood has been capped but still no luck any help please?

Add the grafts to a large queenless colony with no young brood and put the cells in the splits once they are sealed and nearly hatching, I put my cells out on the tenth day after grafting and I believe most authors suggest this schedule.
 
There has to be a flow on for them to draw out the cells ... Are you feeding them syrup if they're not flying free. Stores won't do in my experience. Try adding a frame feeder and give them syrup little and often.
 
Every time I have grafted the bees are removing larve from the queen cups?

They are one day old very small C shape larve that im grafting.
Ive added the grafts to the split's after 9 days when all the brood has been capped but still no luck any help please?

i am having the same problem,try feeding them as theres no flow with the weather.the cells i did get drawn, i scrapped,they werent much better than small emergency cells.Today i am changing systems.Im going to use the ben harden system,i had excellent results with this last year
 
First of all does the unit have it's own cells? Check.

I have had so much bother over the years with rogue cells I no longer use a colony or use sealed brood.

I shake enough combs of baby bees, ie light shake to lose the flying bees, and hard shake into the nuc box, until I deem I have enough to do a good job.

I leave them... well it's already all there if you care to look.

Oh and if the weather is cold and miserable it makes little odds what system you use, the bees will refuse. I am not even thinking yet of trying to graft, a complete waste of time and bees it would be here at this time under these conditions. They are not robots they are bees. ;)

PH
 
Thanks for the relpys, Ive check today I have 5 cells Im going to put them in the incubator and try again in a few weeks when the weather starts to pick up.
Ill keep the 5 to see if i Can get them mated in sum mini nuc's for fun but with weather like this I wont hold my breath.
 
dont forget to put them into some sort of cage so when they hatch they cant get at each other
 
yeah I have a few of them roller cages to put them in so should be ok, has any one increased there stocks by turning there mini nuc's in to fully grown coloines?
 
moved an over wintered kieler into a six frame nuc box last weekend, fed them all week and they are doing fine, got at least another to do tomorrow, if it works right you can have them in a full box and a late summer honey crop from them as well.
 
I tired on problems of grafting. I graft mostly to the cells of swarming hive.
I change the larvae of swarming cells.

Queens will big and fat.
 
I tired on problems of grafting. I graft mostly to the cells of swarming hive.
I change the larvae of swarming cells.

Queens will big and fat.

don't quite follow what you mean Finman.

Are you saying put grafted larvae into a hive that is going to swarm?
 
I think he may be saying he grafts in to queen cups made by the bee's, tryed this last year, ended up missing queens cells and having less bee's than I started with.
 
don't quite follow what you mean Finman.

Are you saying put grafted larvae into a hive that is going to swarm?

This is Finmans revolutionary new technique of physically removing the larvae from a swarm cell and replacing it with a larvae of his choice. I can see this producing just about the best queens possible as the larvae of your choice goes into a natural queen cell amply primed with royal jelly and in a colony which is fully expecting to feed queen cells in those positions, the limitations of this method are obviously the inconvenience of waiting for your bees to initiate swarming, restriction to the number of cells the bees start, more difficult cells to subsequently manipulate and the biggy for me, the element of luck coupled with frequent inspections required to spot a hive in this condition.
 
ooh I See thanks for that. take larvae from my best hive and replace them in to a cup started from another hive to produce better queens ill give that a go.
 
ooh I See thanks for that. take larvae from my best hive and replace them in to a cup started from another hive to produce better queens ill give that a go.

*note* don't graft into a 'cup'
the idea is to remove a larvae from an already started queen cell, and replace with a larvae from your chosen hive
 
has any one increased there stocks by turning there mini nuc's in to fully grown coloines?

Yes. I just shake them out into a five frame 9mm plywood nuc boxes with drawn combs and they do very well. Some last season even went on to fill one national shallow super with honey.
 
This is Finmans revolutionary new technique of physically removing the larvae from a swarm cell and replacing it with a larvae of his choice. I can see this producing just about the best queens possible as the larvae of your choice goes into a natural queen cell amply primed with royal jelly and in a colony which is fully expecting to feed queen cells in those positions,

the limitations of this method are obviously the inconvenience of waiting for your bees to initiate swarming,.

so it happens. To me it is not limitation. Succes rate is practically 100%.

I just was bored when sometimes from 15 grafting I GOT ONLY 2 queens. This is waste of summer.

And if you make a rearer hive it is extremely expencive. It will not produce honey.
To loss hive's yield for couple of queens is not funny.

.
 
how many of queens can you produce using this technique per season from say 5 hives? As im look to raise 10 queens this year
 
*note* don't graft into a 'cup'
the idea is to remove a larvae from an already started queen cell, and replace with a larvae from your chosen hive

Double grafting has been tried - the idea that there is also some royal jelly in the queencell before a younger larva goes in so the queen is REALLY well fed. I don't think it works any better than a usual queencell - well filled ones mean that once the queen has emerged, there is still spare RJ in the cell - so she had had enough.
 
I have built up a mini nuc to a full colony but it took over winter to get there.

There is a thread with the pics somewhere on the site.

PH
 

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