Getting old

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I'm tge wrong side of 60 and starting to struggle with the weight of the supers when their full of Honey.
Anyone have any ideas how to reduce the weight before my back gives out
I'm presuming you have wooden boxes already and not poly. If you enjoy woodwork there are loads of options. I like Sutty's and Penninetraders's suggestions.

I have a previous injury and there is no way I'm lifting national supers as the ergonomics is all wrong. That was one of the reasons I was drawn to warre hives. However, when full of honey they are 17kg and still uncomfortable for me. They are also a bit on the narrow side which makes lifting a bit more awkward.

So this year I made what is in effect an 8 frame Smith hive. I am very pleased with it. My brood box is non standard as it allows me to swap frames with warre hives, but you could go double brood national deep or 8 frames of 14x12. The boxes have big handles to make lifting easier (not the typical recessed handles). I see Roger Patterson has some 8 frame national hives. It would be possible to cut down full size boxes to make this.

Strangely nobody sells an 8 frame langstroth in this country. If you find the langstroth frame a more comfortable length for lifting then you could also consider a 6 or 7 frame dadant. If I'm remembering correctly 6 frames of modified dadant is the equivalent of at least a WBC or national brood box.

Then there is the dartington hive or the non-supered versions that you can buy. Europe has a long history of horizontal hives or rear accessed hives. Of the latter most people know the AZ, but the Swiss have a warm way version that remains popular. I can give you much more info on European hives if you are interested.
 
Age 72. Just been put on steroids for what is thought by rheumatology to be sero negative rheumatoid arthritis. ( doesn't show up on routine test). Feel bloody marvellous. Everyone should be on them . Pity it is a limited course. 😃
'better pred than dead' and 'everything needs a course of steroids before it dies' are two old semi-humourous maxims from my sector...

For those thinking of avoiding heavy lifting, another option is to use normal national deep boxes for brood and for supers use nuc box sized shallows which fit five frames each so they stack on two wide. Lots to move but almost halves the weight of each full shallow.
 
After another recent thread I found myself listening to a q&a with Daniel Weaver, talking of his early years he mentioned that as their family firm was being built up his dad had nowhere near enough supers so would drive around the various different apiaries with a truck load of empty boxes and switch out full frames of honey for empty combs/foundation, reaching home in the evening with a truck load of honey. Obviously not ideal but it's a good demonstration of what can be done when circumstances dictate.
 
For those thinking of avoiding heavy lifting, another option is to use normal national deep boxes for brood and for supers use nuc box sized shallows which fit five frames each so they stack on two wide. Lots to move but almost halves the weight of each full shallow.

I have started experimenting with 2 5 frame nucs side by side as a super. By making your nucs half brood box sized they become a multi use box. The bees still work it as if it is a brood used as a super and it almost halves the lifting weight.
 
As a retired medic: caution is needed with both those age-old 'non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents'. They can cause stomach inflammation/ulcers and hence bleeding. They are contraindicated if you have high blood pressure, fluid retention and/or dodgy kidney function - ailments that are commoner in the elderly and decrepit such as me (83). There are more modern versions of NSAIs which reduce but not eliminate the risks.
Thanks for the warning.
Don't use them often.
BP is normal except I have "white coat syndrome" and my BP is sky high when first tested by a medic.. Each subsequent test sees a much lower reading/ till normal
 
Wonderful to realise that Amari is 83 - gives me another 10 years!! I have been a type 1 insulin dependant diabetic now for 55 years and my advice is don't let anything stop you doing anything you are still able to do. If you have to give something up, do something different that you can still do. No point in passing time miserably! Too many do.
When I had a procedure under general anaesthetic two years ago I was graded "Clinical frailty scale: 3"!
3/5 or 3/10? - I wasn't told. God knows what it is now. Ah well, I'll keep on lifting the supers and recuperating with a customary glass of wine.....
 
Look at Mike Palmers brood factory set-up, one of his YT vids mentions age/back etc (the bonus being a very flexible system) and he covers the honey frame side.

I'm setting these up next year and will post progress etc, for brood and honey.
 
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Only applies to over 65s without long term stable disability like cerebral palsy.
I don't hit that age yet but reckon a score of 3 isn't too bad - you just need to lift supers all year round to be a 2!

Clincal frailty score​

1. Very fit​

cfs-1-very-fit.png
People who are robust, active, energetic and motivated. They tend to exercise regularly and are among the fittest for their age.

2. Fit​

cfs-2-well.png
People who have no active diseasesymptoms but are less fit than category 1. Often, they exercise or are very active occasionally, e.g., seasonally.

3. Managing well​

cfs-3-managing-well.png
People whose medical problems are well controlled, even if occasionally symptomatic, but often are not regularly active beyond routine walking.

4. Living with very mild frailty​

cfs-4-vulnerable.png
Previously “vulnerable,” this category marks early transition from complete independence. While not dependent on others for daily help, often symptoms limit activities. A common complaint is being “slowed up” and/or being tired during the day.

5. Living with mild frailty​

cfs-5-mildly-frail.png
People who often have more evident slowing, and need help with high order instrumental activities of daily living (finances, transportation, heavy housework). Typically, mild frailty progressively impairs shopping and walking outside alone, meal preparation, medications and begins to restrict light housework.

6. Living with moderate frailty​

cfs-6-moderately-frail.png
People who need help with all outside activities and with keeping house. Inside, they often have problems with stairs and need help with bathing and might need minimal assistance (cuing, standby) with dressing.

7. Living with severe frailty​

cfs-7-severely-frail.png
Completely dependent for personal care
, from whatever cause (physical or cognitive). Even so, they seem stable and not at high risk of dying (within ~6 months).

8. Living with very severe frailty​

cfs-8-very-severely-frail.png
Completely dependent for personal care and approaching end of life. Typically, they could not recover even from a minor illness.

9. Terminally ill​

cfs-9-terminally-ill.png
Approaching the end of life. This category applies to people with a life expectancy <6 months, who are not otherwise living with severe frailty. (Many terminally ill people can still exercise until very close to death.)
 
I use National broods for all my hives which is a great system but when the boxes get to 5 or 6 high it can be a problem for me now as my knees are not good. One total knee replacement so far and another on the horizon. I have looked at mechanical means but everything is either clumsy or needs a big scale to justify. My current answer came along in the form of a very keen helper/student who is in much better shape than me, two pairs of hands manage just fine but for one person beekeeping heavy boxes are a problem unless you are young and fit.
 
Look at Mike Palmers brood factory set-up, one of his YT vids mentions age/back etc (the bonus being a very flexible system) and he covers the honey frame side.

I'm setting these up next year and will post progress etc, for brood and honey.
I’ve done it this year and it’s very good for nicking frames for making up nucs. For it to work really well it’s best to replace the frames removed with drawn frames.
 
I'm tge wrong side of 60 and starting to struggle with the weight of the supers when their full of Honey.
Anyone have any ideas how to reduce the weight before my back gives out
Use Paynes nucs hacked into 8 framers, then you can double brood them , super them etc - all lighter and easier to hold close to your body than full size boxes.
 
Have you thought about long hives? Then you only need to lift one frame at a time.

Our club makes good use of them - with our (extremely simple) method of beekeeping.

One thing I'd say is don't watch Black Mountain Honey videos of him trying a long hive. The problems he has are all down to trying to do his (traditional/Victorian) vertical method on a long hive - which, as he finds, isn't very practical.
 
Have you thought about long hives? Then you only need to lift one frame at a time.

Our club makes good use of them - with our (extremely simple) method of beekeeping.

One thing I'd say is don't watch Black Mountain Honey videos of him trying a long hive. The problems he has are all down to trying to do his (traditional/Victorian) vertical method on a long hive - which, as he finds, isn't very practical.
A little more explanation with pics would help, thank you
 
Yes, I did try a long hive, but it had extra deep frames which made handling them more difficult to remove without disturbing bees as the frames have to be lifted higher to remove them. I found that the frames were the wrong orientation for my working, as it meant moving arms across the bees more, and being unbalanced for movement. Probably just me.... Maybe OK for taller people with longer arms, but the bees did not thrive in it either, and I think there was too much space.
 
Yes, I did try a long hive, but it had extra deep frames which made handling them more difficult
no need to use 14x12 frames for long hives - that's been dismissed a long time ago - plenty of people successfully use national deep long hives now
 
Inspecting is becoming more painful for me this year. My back (and side ribs) are sore during and after inspections.

I try not to take painkillers, so just try a few stretches or a hot water bottle when I get back home.

Been getting a few massages in the last few months, but most inspections still cause me pain.

As someone said, might be down to needing more weight sessions (haven’t really got back to the gym since 2021), but I’m a regular swimmer and walker.

I do my yoga/Pilates-type stretches/exercises most days, which helps getting through the day.

I’d hate to get to the stage where I’d have to give up beekeeping because of it.
 
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Only applies to over 65s without long term stable disability like cerebral palsy.
I don't hit that age yet but reckon a score of 3 isn't too bad - you just need to lift supers all year round to be a 2!

Clincal frailty score​

1. Very fit​

cfs-1-very-fit.png
People who are robust, active, energetic and motivated. They tend to exercise regularly and are among the fittest for their age.

2. Fit​

cfs-2-well.png
People who have no active diseasesymptoms but are less fit than category 1. Often, they exercise or are very active occasionally, e.g., seasonally.

3. Managing well​

cfs-3-managing-well.png
People whose medical problems are well controlled, even if occasionally symptomatic, but often are not regularly active beyond routine walking.

4. Living with very mild frailty​

cfs-4-vulnerable.png
Previously “vulnerable,” this category marks early transition from complete independence. While not dependent on others for daily help, often symptoms limit activities. A common complaint is being “slowed up” and/or being tired during the day.

5. Living with mild frailty​

cfs-5-mildly-frail.png
People who often have more evident slowing, and need help with high order instrumental activities of daily living (finances, transportation, heavy housework). Typically, mild frailty progressively impairs shopping and walking outside alone, meal preparation, medications and begins to restrict light housework.

6. Living with moderate frailty​

cfs-6-moderately-frail.png
People who need help with all outside activities and with keeping house. Inside, they often have problems with stairs and need help with bathing and might need minimal assistance (cuing, standby) with dressing.

7. Living with severe frailty​

cfs-7-severely-frail.png
Completely dependent for personal care
, from whatever cause (physical or cognitive). Even so, they seem stable and not at high risk of dying (within ~6 months).

8. Living with very severe frailty​

cfs-8-very-severely-frail.png
Completely dependent for personal care and approaching end of life. Typically, they could not recover even from a minor illness.

9. Terminally ill​

cfs-9-terminally-ill.png
Approaching the end of life. This category applies to people with a life expectancy <6 months, who are not otherwise living with severe frailty. (Many terminally ill people can still exercise until very close to death.)
I'll not ask what 10 indicates. 🤔
 

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