Frame pins

[oldmatty]

Just getting started. Need to assemble some frames over the weekend. What length and type of pin is best. I need to pick some up today, theres a Jewson, Travis & P, B&Q and homebase nearby?

 

[Moggs]

20mm 'gimp' pins, ideally black japanned coating. Welcome!

 

[Mike a]

3/4" or around 18-19-20mm

 

[oldmatty]

Cheers Mogs and Mike. Nipping out in my lunch hour which of those shops?

 

[oldmatty]

The sheradised ones are easy to find

 

[hedgerow pete]

any form of thin nail i use 18-20mm for the top bars and you use the same for the lower bars if you nail them,

if i owned one i would use a air stapler and if so i would nail vertical straight down rather than across but would us much longer nails/staples about 35-40mm

 

[ericbeaumont]

Challenge make the 19mm. black japanned pins normally used for frames, but you will not find them in any of the shops you mention. Beekeeping suppliers stock them.

Eric.

 

[fredbloggs]

The length quoted is ideal for any part other than the top bar insert. You need 5/8 inch maximum for that or the pins will go through and stick out the top of the bar. The alternative is to use the longer pins but don't fully insert them - the bar gets held in place with comb after a while anyway?

I would not be tempted to use anything other than black japanned. You will curse if your frames get rusty nail disease.

You need one of those independant hardware stores - the ones that sold chicken wire and pumped paraffin into a can? The Diy stores will not stock gimp pins but you might be able to get a pin inserter tool there. Mine is an Eclipse (small bore one about 2mm) A real godsend.

Regards

FB

 

[fredbloggs]

Or your local assoc. might have a shop that sells the real mcCoy!

 

[m100]

The length quoted is ideal for any part other than the top bar insert. You need 5/8 inch maximum for that or the pins will go through and stick out the top of the bar. The alternative is to use the longer pins but don't fully insert them - the bar gets held in place with comb after a while anyway?

The correct way is to nail them in the same direction as the ones holding the side bars to the top bar. Then you can use the same pins throughout, and when its time to change the comb its easy to remove the wedge with a chisel. Nailing at a diagonal, running the risk of nail tips appearing through the top bar, is something only done by people who read instructions from Thornes and believe them to be 100% correct.

 

[fredbloggs]

A matter of choice nest pas?

Nailing at a diagonal, running the risk of nail tips appearing through the top bar, is something only done by people who read instructions from Th**nes and believe them to be 100% correct.

No not true - I have never read thxxnes instructions. I was shown at an instruction day at the assoc apiary. Maybe the demonstrator read them 40 years ago?

I too use a chisel to seperate the top bar (and don't have to get my nice shiny chisel all grottied up with wax/honey or bend/break the bar). If the pins are protruding - I can grab them with one of my vast collection of plier thingy cutty grippy things. Simples.

I do put the pins in at an angle because it is a piece of cake with the nail inserter tool. I rarely use a hammer for pinning and they rarely protrude through because I am a flaming expert . On the rare occasion my halo slips and it protrudes through (<1%) I insert the aforementioned clean chisel in the gap- small tweak and it pulls back?

The point is - there is more than one way to skin a cat. Which one is "correct" is for the skinner to choose.

Regards

FB

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

The correct way is to nail them in the same direction as the ones holding the side bars to the top bar. Then you can use the same pins throughout, and when its time to change the comb its easy to remove the wedge with a chisel. Nailing at a diagonal, running the risk of nail tips appearing through the top bar, is something only done by people who read instructions from Th**nes and believe them to be 100% correct.

I'm new to the game but I've found nailing them straight through the wedge in the same direction as the top bar pins much easier (and no harder to get out - why should it be) see this thresd for a debate that started a little while ago
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=11928

 

[fredbloggs]

We need a smillee that says " i dont agree".

Clearly i need to cut and paste (ie repeat) the bit that says i do it for these reasons and not for those stated by m100. Which you appear to be agreeing to?

I nail the top bar the way I do because it suits me to do it that way. If you read my post you will see that installation and removal is very satisfactory for me . If you wish to do it another way that suits you? - fine!

The rest of the world can make their own choice

FB

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

We need a smillee that says " i dont agree".

 

[fredbloggs]

May non monsewer!

No not that one although i do feel that way sometimes especially after posting on here.

Its a shame we cant have profane language smillees as i could do with a few of those as well

"self-control Timothy!!"

FB

 

[Headnavigator]

This will not only show you what pins to use, but also where to stick 'em.
Leads to an enormous website you should find helpful.
http://www.*****************/bee/frameassy.html


for ************ substitute *****************

Won't let me put the url, google dave-cushman bees frame assembly


good luck!

 

[nelletap]

OK. I read the instructions from Th**** and believed them.
Hanging head in shame.
Tricia

 

[For want of a better word]

We have an old fashoned ironmongers locally that sell by the ounce, not very expensive barn,, b&q, homebase etc
also get a rampin.. worth its weight in gold!!

 

[Bees Plus]

Try using a nail gun - builds the frame in a 1/4 of the time.

 

[Elaine]

I use a nail gun too - much kinder on the fingers as well as being quicker

If anyone wants any nails that are sent with the frame kits - let me know, I'd be happy to post some to you as I'm getting quite a collection!