Four Frame Extractor

[Millet]

I ordered this on ebay from Germany 2wks ago, today with the weather being carp i have been playing, the build quality is not brilliant but good enough for £118, the bolts for holding the legs on are a bit long but a couple of washers will sort that out, i also filled it with water and it past the leak test, all i need to do now is make several stainless clips to hold the top of the frames in place when spinning, and the best thing about it IMO is it holds 8 super frames not that i will ever need to put that many in there

Here is a picture with some frames i quickly stuck together.

 

[Erichalfbee]

You won't need clips. Centrifugal force will keep them in place I hope your extractor takes brood frames. That's a useful thing.

 

[Millet]

You won't need clips. Centrifugal force will keep them in place I hope your extractor takes brood frames. That's a useful thing.

It does , it will hold 4 x standard brood frames easy.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Does anyone know of an affordable RADIAL (National) brood-frame extractor?

 

[madasafish]

Does anyone know of an affordable RADIAL (National) brood-frame extractor?

Define affordable.

What is affordable to one person is cheap nasty rubbish to another..

 

[Millet]

Does anyone know of an affordable RADIAL (National) brood-frame extractor?

I am not sure of your DIY skills but i could modify this one to do either.

Edited to add i overshot the brood frame bit, they will not fit Radial wise.
A question though, why would you extract the brood frames ? .

 

[Erichalfbee]

A question though, why would you extract the brood frames ? .

To get the honey out.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

To get the honey out.

Yes I thought of posting that! I only use brood-size boxes. So much more flexible.


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[Poly Hive]

If you extract Heather then a brood capability is very useful.

PH

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Can't tell from the photo but check the material used for the nuts, bolts and washers that come into contact with the honey. If not stainless steel I would change them before using. Plenty on ebay even wingnuts if you want to simplify dismantling for cleaning. My first extractor had mild steel fixings which rusted after first use

 

[Millet]

To get the honey out.

That is a good answer and i obviously know what a extractor is used for.
Why though with brood frames, surely there are for the bees.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

@Admin , @Hivemaker. : please can we move this to the big-kids section so @Finman can get involved!!

 

[Erichalfbee]

That is a good answer and i obviously know what a extractor is used for.
Why though with brood frames, surely there are for the bees.

Its possible to have too many brood frames with stores
It's useful to have empty drawn brood frames to give a colony instant laying space and for manipulation like Wally Shaws snelgrove

 

[YorkshireBees]

Its possible to have too many brood frames with stores
It's useful to have empty drawn brood frames to give a colony instant laying space and for manipulation like Wally Shaws snelgrove

A couple of examples spring to mind.

Easiest way (in some beekeepers minds) to get more brood size comb drawn is to stick a BB full of foundation on as the 1st super during a good flow. Then when it is drawn and filled / capped you can extract the honey and are left with drawn brood size comb.

In my case as I use a Demaree method I end up with whole BB's full of honey / nectar. What I'm thinking of doing this year is extracting the older combs so I can dispose of them and feeding the honey back to the bees over a super!

Either way the capability to extract brood size frames is always useful.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

In my case as I use a Demaree method I end up with whole BB's full of honey / nectar. What I'm thinking of doing this year is extracting the older combs so I can dispose of them and feeding the honey back to the bees over a super!

when you get to the end of a Demarree (even a rolling one) the only way is to end up with the top deep as a honey super. It's also usually the older comb that ends up there so I extract, keep the good ones for next year and ditch the rest. The nine frame radial I use has grills to convert it to a tangential (either six shallow or three deep.

 

[Zante]

This is very interesting information.
I might end up buying an extractor too, can I expect to find one that will take 14x12 frames without having to pay through the nose?

 

[Millet]

Can't tell from the photo but check the material used for the nuts, bolts and washers that come into contact with the honey. If not stainless steel I would change them before using. Plenty on ebay even wingnuts if you want to simplify dismantling for cleaning. My first extractor had mild steel fixings which rusted after first use

All the exposed fixings are stainless as far as i am aware, the bolts for the legs are not but they are fastened to brackets on the outside of the tank.

 

[Millet]

Its possible to have too many brood frames with stores
It's useful to have empty drawn brood frames to give a colony instant laying space and for manipulation like Wally Shaws snelgrove

I understand now as i have noticed a fair bit of capped honey in several of the supers, Thanks

 

[Millet]

This is very interesting information.
I might end up buying an extractor too, can I expect to find one that will take 14x12 frames without having to pay through the nose?

The one in the picture will take them size frames and for the price its good enough for me but i suppose time will tell, the only thing i would consider changing is the honey valve for a better quality one, here is the ebay link.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371061238933?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Erichalfbee]

This is very interesting information.
I might end up buying an extractor too, can I expect to find one that will take 14x12 frames without having to pay through the nose?

My eight frame Drill driven Giordan takes 2