Foundation Free Frames

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It has been discussed many times here.

Very expencive and amount of drone cells will be big.





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Oh right I see.

You're missing the point Finman.

This is a thread about foundationless with people who have been doing it for years. Our aims are different to yours. I have been broadly foundationless for two years. I have no regrets.

This was a rushed frame - no supports - it soon filled the frame - you cannot any longer discern it from a foundation'd frame.

I do not have an excessive amount of drone, I would say I have the right amount. Also we all know that many beekeepers are suffering from badly mated queens... I wonder why.

5f947ef0b7c07b9741f906afadd58d6a.jpg



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Oh right I see.

You're missing the point Finman.

This is a thread about foundationless with people who have been doing it for years. Our aims are different to yours. I have been broadly foundationless for two years. I have no regrets.


I have debated with those guys over 10 years. They have their own truths where no one can affect.
 
I have debated with those guys over 10 years. They have their own truths where no one can affect.



As do you...

I do not debate what you say about foundationless frames.

But you must must understand that not all beekeepers have the same aims as you.

I know everything you have said... you have said it again and again ever since I joined the forum. I agree. But for me, they are not problems.

This is not a thread about if you think it's a good idea or not, it is about ways of doing it.

And this frame is my current idea.






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Finman.

Read the following.

I know.

I am not going for honey yield.

I am not arguing with the above statistics.

We value different things and have different aims.

Please stopping repeating yourself. You are hijacking the thread.


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Thought I might have a go at doing my foundationless frames like this this year.

Ideally I want to find a finer dowel (the thinnest I could find in B&Q was 6mm)... maybe 3mm? As I don't want the dowel to be too much of an obstacle. Maybe it'll be a nice place for them to clearly and in view hang queen cells from! Or do you think a 3mm dowel will be too flimsy? Depends what wood I suppose!?

But I think two thirds down is fine. Drawn comb should normally holds itself ok while it's above the dowel anyway.

I've moved away from using monofilament fishing line (3 lines in a Deep and 4 in a 14x12 frame), which the bees used to 'tolerate', and I'm now using 2x vertical bamboo barbecue skewers per frame. Bees attach and incorporate comb to the skewers very readily, as wood is something they understand, and appear to like.
LJ
 
What is the rough diameter of the skewers?


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A fraction under 3mm ... I've just measured one.
Like Little John I'm trying vertical BBQ skewers this season ... and wooden starter strips.

One potential problem with horizontal is that they are sometimes 'bowed' and this may cause issues. It's also unsupported until it reaches the horizontal and - unless they join it along the bottom bar - the lower half may flap free.
 
Little John - have you tried horizontal in the past? I've only ever done horizontal wire which is fine but a bit fiddly. Keen to try wooden but unsure whether vertical or horizontal - that's the problem with the forum so many different approaches I get confused as to what's best!
 
As you can hopefully see in my picture further up I've been using wooden starter strips... it's great... i can basically steam or scrape the wax off and chuck them straight back in a hive!

Fatshark... what exactly do you mean by 'bowed'? You mean the dowel bowes downwards?

Last year I used zero wires or whatever in some frames and various pattens of metal wire in others. All seemed to work fine. Just a faff to wire and nail etc.

I agree the dowel can be a bit flexi... I may research stiffer wood... i have sourced some Ramin dowel.


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Bees are just as happy with popsicle sticks as with skewers. If stiffer wood is important, consider using a hardwood like ash. I have local access to all the persimmon I care to cut. It should make an excellent wood for strong but still flexible frame parts.
 
Hi Fusion...

It's the dowel cross bar 2/3rds down that needs the stiffness (and to be thinner)... as you can see my 'popsicle stick' starter strip is a full length nicely fitting flat spar.

The dowel here is 6mm... the thinnest I can find is Ramin wood dowel at 4mm. Other woods don't come so fine.

edc007479a037e9dc9264595c54b2616.jpg

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Have you thought about putting the dowels in vertical instead of horizontal? 2 vertical dowels equally spaced in a frame provide more than enough support for comb.
 
bjosephd: What is the rough diameter of the skewers?

My first trials (2x vertical skewers) were with my 14x14 frames - and in order to get sufficient length I had to buy skewers with a 4.5mm diameter. I'd have liked them to be thinner, but the girls coped with that diameter ok. They essentially built 3 separate combs within one frame, and then morphed them together into one. Eventually the skewers became fully incorporated into the comb.

Ordinary deep frames (DN4 etc) will take skewers ex Tescos, which are 10" long and - as Fatshark says, around 3mm. If you drill the top-bar (I drill 2 holes, so as to separate the comb space into equal thirds) - insert the skewer with a dab of wood glue (such as D4 from Toolstation) - and - as some of them can be slightly 'bowed', rotate the skewer so that the direction of the 'bow' is inline with the top-bar. Then, assuming you have a divided bottom bar, place a drop of glue onto the skewer/bottom-bar contact points, and gently clamp the bottom-bars together with a clothes-peg until the glue has set. You may want to repeat that last step once, until you're happy that the skewer is held securely.

Once the skewers are in place, THEN insert lollipop (popsicle) sticks into the top-bar's foundation groove. As an alternative, you can also squeeze the top 1/4" of any old scraps of wild comb you may have cut away during inspections between two pieces of wood protected with Sellotape. Once their edges are flattened, those bits of comb can be inserted instead of the lollipop sticks, and held in place with a dab of molten wax.

Fatbee: Little John - have you tried horizontal in the past?

No, I haven't - not yet - but I'm considering this.

If you read Dadant's 'System of Beekeeping', he makes a very persuasive case for leaving the central area of a large comb free of obstacles - his argument being that the queen lays in concentric circles, starting at the centre and working her way outwards. Anything which causes interference - such as a beespace between combs - or an obstruction, such as a wooden skewer - will cause her to hesitate with uncertainty, and thus slow down the laying process.

Now I don't know if that's absolutely true or not, but it sounds plausible - and anyway - why not make life easy for the queen ?

So - what I rather fancy doing is to use thicker skewers (say, 4.5mm - now I've got a box-full of them !) - and insert them as 'stubs'. By this, I mean drill the side-bars where wire/ fishing line would normally be attached, and glue into place short lengths of skewer, so that (say) a quarter of the distance from each side bar is supported by a stub skewer, leaving the central comb-width area completely free of any obstructions. I think that would certainly be worth a trial, and next time I'm making frames, I'll construct a box-worth in that style and see how they're received.

Derek - thanks for posting that pic - saved me hunting for it.

thats interesting... Perhaps a consequence of evolving with predominately tall narrow cavities?

Not if you understand the pre-requisites of evolutionary adaptation.
LJ
 
.....

Once the skewers are in place, THEN insert lollipop (popsicle) sticks into the top-bar's foundation groove. As an alternative, you can also squeeze the top 1/4" of any old scraps of wild comb you may have cut away during inspections between two pieces of wood protected with Sellotape. Once their edges are flattened, those bits of comb can be inserted instead of the lollipop sticks, and held in place with a dab of molten wax.
.....

LJ

This thread, with one or two notable exceptions has been really interesting.

As an alternative to squeezing the scrap wax into the shape of a starter strip, this guy has an alternative that seems quite fast.

CVB
 
Indeed! Ooh isn't wax a pleasing material to work with sometimes.

Little John, you make an interesting point about leaving the majority face of a comb clear. Even with wires you often see the zig zag (or whatever) pattern of the wires skipped by the queen (or emptied by workers).

My totally support free frames have so far never fallen out (if handled with great care!) and now are indiscernible from the rest (apart from no zig zags!).

Maybe if one is gonna go foundationless it's worth going the whole hog.


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I have used starter strip only on brood frames and don't have any problems so far, the odd but may go a drift but easy to rectify. Will try more this year
 

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