A few points if I may:
Admin said:
. . . ,I sometimes find that the metal next to the frames does not get as hot as the centre,I then use the embeding tool to just finish off and clean up any wire that has not sunk far enough..
This could be caused by bad tolerence in the wire meaning its a little thicker in places.
I suspect that most of us use stainless wire, the dimensional tolerance of which is today very good. I suspect that the brass ferrules in the frame to be responsible for the slight variation in temperature in close proximity to the frame.
A slight deviation perhaps:
I use a 12 volt battery charger and the frames have slotted guides in the side bars for the wax.
I embed each wire separately with a crocodile clip attached to the common centre point on the side of the frame and a second clip fixed to the bench (crocodile fashion).
I'm right handed, just for the record.
With my right hand holding the pliers, I twist at the common point while making contact between one of the wire starting points on the bottom side of the frame (stood on end) against the fixed bench contact.
The twisting takes up the slack as the wire expands and embeds into the wax. Adjustments are made with a deft left finger running along the path of the wire (unpowered). The method works well for me, but perhaps wouldn't work at all well if the wax wasn't already largely supported by the grooved side bars.
dave-cushman.net/bee/framewiring
Q: How do you ensure that your wire is properly tensioned after the embedding operation?
I feel that crimping the cold wire does little for final wire tension and is a poor substitute for a tightly wired frame before the embedding takes place.
Opinions please.
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