Double brood working vs Demaree

[Newbeeneil]

What do you mean by 6 5/8?

It's the depth in inches of a langstroth Medium (Illinois) super 6 5⁄8 inches (170 mm)

 

[Curly green finger's]

What do you mean by 6 5/8?

It's a medium super bigger than your standard size, @elainemary ill write a post out later I'm busy at the moment OK.
Just saw Neil's post after I replied.

 

[Buzz Off]

It's the depth in inches of a langstroth Medium (Illinois) super 6 5⁄8 inches (170 mm)

Thanks

 

[Michael Palmer]

What do you mean by 6 5/8?

A honey super that measures 6 5/8" tall. Here we have two sizes of honey super. 5 11/16" and 6 5/8". I use 6 5/8 exclusively. Full they weigh 55 pounds...much lighter that the 9 5/8 deep super that can weigh upwards of 90 pounds.

 

[Michael Palmer]

Hope @Michael Palmer answers re how his box reversal works (probably time difference at play) ...presume it's about the queen moving up to the top brood box and then switching boxes over...from my limited experience of double brood & nuc extensions she seems to freely move & lay between both boxes though, rather than moving systematically...so keen to learn more

Elaine

I will soon. I have a paper I wrote about swarming and reversing, etc. 4500 words...too large for posting here...I assume. I tried to post it to my web site but I've forgotten how to edit my site. My old brain...Anyway, I'll ask my help today...he'll know

 

[Cuckmere couple]

i had most colonies on double bb last year but spring was crazy and they were building so fast that swarm prevention was as necessary as single brood box

not sure how best to manage double bb and maximise honey in supers rather than brood boxes so keen to learn more on how best to do this and when to look out for that

 

[Swarm]

P.S. It was the rolling bit that I struggled with last year in my first attempt. Ended up with far too much intervention. Also tricky to find frames just with sealed brood, hence why supercedure cells formed, though learnt something from that and a good outcome re a new queen. I will try it without rolling this year and switch the boxes instead (keeping queen below).

Move the sealed combs up, move empties down. You have to wait for the upper brood to emerge so this rotation won't be a weekly thing. Cells don't have to be used, they can be removed .... but what a waste of potentially beautiful queens.
When the flow kicks in and they start stuffing the upper box, I stop moving frames, laying rate will be reducing.

 

[Swarm]

i had most colonies on double bb last year but spring was crazy and they were building so fast that swarm prevention was as necessary as single brood box

not sure how best to manage double bb and maximise honey in supers rather than brood boxes so keen to learn more on how best to do this and when to look out for that

Don't allow a honey arc to develop on the brood frames as this triggers congestion. Move honey frames down and keep brood against the excluder so they move the honey into the supers. Also they may not need all the space so consider dummying the boxes down, I run mine nine over nine.

 

[drex]

One of Wally Shaws booklets on WBKA, about swarming, has a bit about rearrangement of boxes and frames. Essentially I just aim to keep brood up against the excluder in the early part of the season. That way they put the honey up in the supers. Later on I am more relaxed about this so they build up stores in the brood box for the winter.
I had no swarm attempts at all last year. Usually I reverse my double broods twice in the season and might move occasional frames

 

[Swarm]

Last year was different. Dandelions were out from March and the bees went nuts
I've just looked my notes up
First super on 7th April, second on 11th, Demareed on 22nd

Thinking back to last year, first swarm cells second week of April This queen, her mother and her grandmother always do this and make an early start. Rather than a nuisance, I've found splitting at this stage results in two production colonies by the Summer flow. This year I intend to Demarree the daughter raised last year as her bees are particularly agreeable and very dark

 

[Amari]

One of Wally Shaws booklets on WBKA, about swarming, has a bit about rearrangement of boxes and frames. Essentially I just aim to keep brood up against the excluder in the early part of the season. That way they put the honey up in the supers. Later on I am more relaxed about this so they build up stores in the brood box for the winter.
I had no swarm attempts at all last year. Usually I reverse my double broods twice in the season and might move occasional frames

Strange Drex! I had more swarm attempts than I ever remember in the past - without any obvious change of management.

Edit: mind you, judging from your posts, my management is far less sophisticated than yours....

 

[deemann1]

You have to remember that a second entrance isn't needed it's just something that I decided to add, Even now when I get short of kit or don't have my Demarree boards to hand I go without. Demarree didn't use a top entrance and not many have until the last few years

Do you allow the top box to be filled with honey when all brood has hatched if the flow is there

 

[Erichalfbee]

Do you allow the top box to be filled with honey when all brood has hatched if the flow is there

I did, yes. 14x12 full of honey is b****y heavy

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Do you allow the top box to be filled with honey when all brood has hatched if the flow is there

Yes, most years I have a couple of stacks of brood boxes to extract, after extraction, I have two stacks of frames, one with nice clean drawn comb for next year's manipulations and the other with mostly old and knackered stuff for the bonfire.

 

[Dutchman]

Since I started using brood and a half (commercial) I find that they are less inclined to swarm. Early on in the season I move frames of nectar and honey up into the super(s)and let them fill the space with brood. Swarm control is easy, once a week l just tip the top brood a bit and check between the two boxes for started queen cells and if there is any sign of them its very quick and easy to do a vertical split.

 

[Boston Bees]

Since I started using brood and a half (commercial) I find that they are less inclined to swarm. Early on in the season I move frames of nectar and honey up into the super(s)and let them fill the space with brood. Swarm control is easy, once a week l just tip the top brood a bit and check between the two boxes for started queen cells and if there is any sign of them its very quick and easy to do a vertical split.

Don't the frames in the "half" section of the brood-and-a-half contain sugar from the pre-winter feeding (and fondant etc), thus preventing you from moving them up into the supers? Or do you not have to feed for winter?

 

[Finman]

Double brood is not a swarm control method. Hives may swarm 100% if they have such genes.

 

[Curly green finger's]

I did, yes. 14x12 full of honey is b****y heavy

Is bloody a swear word.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Is bloody a swear word.

Yes but allowed. I wrote it like that for emphasis. It got your attention at least

 

[Finman]

Is bloody a swear word.

It is strenght word. It gives power to your informatiom.