Do you keep your suit immaculately clean at all times?

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I'm still learning.

Looked up the year and it said Defender began in 1990.
yes, there was also a 'transition' period between the series and the County when there was basically a hybrid of the two, although since then the basic chassis length was either been 90 or 110" the purists would only call the earlier ones plain '110' I suppose, the series 1 and the forward control are the only one I haven't driven, my father having had the II and IIA, I've had a III 109 and driven air transportables, counties, transition models, defenders and the Wolf, usually through work.
 
One Ten, then.
yes, there was also a 'transition' period between the series and the County when there was basically a hybrid of the two, although since then the basic chassis length was either been 90 or 110" the purists would only call the earlier ones plain '110' I suppose, the series 1 and the forward control are the only one I haven't driven, my father having had the II and IIA, I've had a III 109 and driven air transportables, counties, transition models, defenders and the Wolf, usually through work.
View attachment IMG_20210421_093352_01.jpg
I only have this photo of the landy from the back.
 
That's what I'm looking for, to get round the new London ULEZ in October. A 1980 Series 111 qualifies as historic, and as nobody in London goes faster than about 27, it should fit in nicely.
I hope you don't mind the 'bone jarring' suspension on a London street, or will you look for the dreaded 'urban conversion' the county brought in with coil springs? The 109 does smooth out the bumps better than the 88.
 
That's what I'm looking for, to get round the new London ULEZ in October. A 1980 Series 111 qualifies as historic, and as nobody in London goes faster than about 27, it should fit in nicely.
I had a 1975 petrol engined station wagon with a safari roof
 
Hate the coil sprung suspension, much prefered the leaf spring although SWMBO used to say the lazy rocking motion used to make her seasick, I suppose a parabolic conversion is an acceptable happy medium. When the upgraded the Santana (the Spanish version built under licence) to 110" the licence topped them from using coil springs so they went for parabolics
 
Regular washing of bee suits makes a lot of sense. Using a cooler temperature wash with a suitable alkali rather than a hot wash should extend the life of the garment. The secret is the alkali (preferrably unscented) because it will denature distress pheromones that may sensitize bees or potentially attract unwanted attention from wasps, the alkali will also help denature any bee proteins that may sensitize partners to anaphylaxis and finally help prevent transmission of potential pathogens. At the end of the day it's down to personal choice but I suspect it's easier to wash a suit than cull a diseased hive or wrongfully cull a productive queen because the hive is naturally responding to distress pheromones on a suit. In the event of an apparently 'angry' hive IMHO one of the first things to rule out is a dirty bee suit especially if the approach to the hive is from a down wind direction so the hive smells the pheromones well before physical arrival.
 
NBU recommend 50°C
Do they what do you recommend?
30/40c has been OK for my suites.
I would rather wash them as low a temp as possible for longevity.
 

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