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Etton - if you have more time available then money, then British National boxes are cheap enough to make, if you're not too fussy about appearance.

I once made a couple from pallet wood - made them upside-down on a glass table top so as to use their upper edge as a reference. Top Bee Space is the easiest format to make - so the upper rails are first attached to the end blanks and the box then assembled using 'glue and screw':

t71ni0.jpg



When the glue is set, the bottom rail is added. Only butt joints are used - nothing fancy. Excess wood is then removed and the box height trimmed down to 225mm. Filler is applied to the pallet wood imperfections.

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Finally, the inside (despite what the parrots say) is painted as well as the outside. Add runners if you want - I used some aluminium offcuts.

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Total cost ? About £2 per box - to cover the cost of screws, glue, paint - and of course electricity. Not particularly pretty, but perfectly servicable - and plenty strong enough.



I really like the top and bottom rails (which some manufacturers call 'locking bars') of the British National design - as the top rail in particular provides a 'good handful' when carrying boxes.

I retained this design feature when making some 'National-Warre' boxes recently. These incorporate 8x National DN4 frames whilst retaining Warre's framed-design criteria exactly. These boxes are made from 35mm scaffold planks, with each corner being secured by 4x three-and-a-half-inch wood screws, plus a generous amount of 100% waterproof glue. As far as strength goes, these really are the 'Land Rover' of beehive boxes. Cost ? About £5 per box if you need to buy the scaffold planks - £2 per box otherwise.

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LJ
 
Isn't the OP's box reminiscent of the original National hive? That was a double walled hive on two opposing sides, the "airspace" blanked off with two fillets of wood top and bottom, (if you see what I mean). Rails could then be added on two sides to give a good "handful" to grip. (I did that with a couple of my old National supers - too heavy for my little fingers with the simple "Langstroth-type" handhold of the National :D)
 
Isn't the OP's box reminiscent of the original National hive?

I was thinking exactly the same thing ....
I still have a couple of those old-style boxes around - with 'D' recesses which are just deep enough to hold with your fingernails :cuss:
LJ
 
Thanks Little John, very helpful pics. Am still building my prototype, Christmas getting in the way. My biggest problem is getting straight edges with my jig saw, leaving gaps due to unevenness. Anyone know where I can buy OMF?
 
Thanks Little John, very helpful pics. Am still building my prototype, Christmas getting in the way. My biggest problem is getting straight edges with my jig saw, leaving gaps due to unevenness. Anyone know where I can buy OMF?

A table saw is good, a table-router even better:
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=24355

I've lost track of how much work that router has done. One of my best projects by a mile.

Whatever you do - don't give up on DIY builds. Even if you should screw-up a few times when making your own gear (and I could list one or two of mine !), it's a great learning process. I'll be making-up a website over Christmas in which I'll be covering many of my 'pallet builds' in more detail - bee boxes for £2 a pop etc - I'll post a link to it shortly.
'best
LJ
 
A tip.

Use a guide rail, clamped to the timber, to run the jig saw along. Do make sure it is clamped on the 'good'side and not the 'waste' side, mind.
 
A tip.

Use a guide rail, clamped to the timber, to run the jig saw along. Do make sure it is clamped on the 'good'side and not the 'waste' side, mind.
A guide rail makes little difference with a jigsaw 9 times out of 10 they go where they want to anyway, NOW if you are using a circular saw a guide rail can be handy.
 
A guide rail makes little difference with a jigsaw 9 times out of 10 they go where they want to anyway, NOW if you are using a circular saw a guide rail can be handy.

Very dependent upon the jigsaw. I used cheapo jigsaws for years and struggled to cut straight or square. Bought a Bosch a while ago and the difference is phenomenal. Still needs care but it goes where I steer it as opposed to wherever the hell it feels like. :)
 
Very dependent upon the jigsaw. I used cheapo jigsaws for years and struggled to cut straight or square. Bought a Bosch a while ago and the difference is phenomenal. Still needs care but it goes where I steer it as opposed to wherever the hell it feels like. :)
I have used all kinds John, and i can go in a straight line but i have found the angle of the cut varies depending on thickness of the material, i believe the blades are far too flexible to do any precision cutting.
 
Thanks for the OMF link bee bumble. Anyone know whether galvanised or black epoxy is best? Particularly as Vaping underneath so OMF receives a high temperature with residues of OA? Which should I go for or doesn't it matter, costs £8.99 for two.
 
Aldi's router tables - £30 without router - are very good .
 

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