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omnimirage

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I offered to look after the hives of a family friend who was an active apiarist in exchange for honey, many months after other commitments prevented him from maintaining his hives. The hives are truly in a terrible, mismanaged state, making it difficult to do basic maintenance.

The other day, I opened up a hive to find all the frames full of honey and rather locked in with propolis. The hive was four deep, and the supers were quite difficult to undo. They are also particularly heavy; I can't lift them alone. After lifting two supers, I could tell that the bees would get aggressive if I went any deeper. Despite not knowing exactly what to look for, I figured it was important to check up on the brood chamber, especially since I wanted to ensure that there weren’t any queen cells or signs of disease/unhealthiness. How important is it for me to check every super, including the brood chamber? What should I be checking for?

When I went to take off the third super, the hive moved and split slightly at the bottom with many aggressive bees coming out of the gap. The split was down at the brood chamber and on the board. It was difficult to close off, and I had to flee afterwards. There were many aggressive, leering bees in the area for some time, making it troublesome to check nearby bee hives.
I then checked a hive that was isolated from the others. This one was much more peaceful: fairly neglected, but not quite as much. I managed to take some photos of it:

http://imgur.com/a/HIsbZ

This hive is five deep, with one shallow depth super. The last couple of photos were of some comb that was crammed in where the hivetool was in the second picture. The supers were unable to be stacked on top of each other due to this massive piece of honeycomb hanging off it. It had a bit of honey in it, but it was quite disfigured and large, and I couldn't fit it in well anywhere. Although I wasn’t sure of what to do with it, it had signs of many drones growing in it so I decided to discard it. I later saw it had some larvae, but it was too late to take it back to the hive.

I extracted all the honey from one of the supers, and cleaned up all the wax and honey. I didn't check deeper in the hive and I didn't have time to check the rest of the hives. Besides, the bees from the aggressive hive were still attacking us a good 50 meters off. What should I do if they're too aggressive to be able to easily do such work?

Other times working the site, I've found the supers to be stuck together significantly. I've only gotten to one of their brood chambers once and when it happened, a large piece of mangled comb tore apart as I lifted the super, causing the bees to become incredibly aggressive. I needed to vacate the area but couldn't easily put the super back on as the comb was torn in multiple places. What should I do when it's difficult to open the supers and check what's going on? Should I just keep opening them to scrape off all the mangled stuff and what not, until they're in better order?

I'm not sure what my general objective should be for these hives now. I was under the impression that I should try to install a queen excluder, so that future honey I extract won't come in dark, disfigured comb like shown, but what I learned from posting last is that a queen excluder may be even more detrimental to me now. If I don't use queen excluders, what else can I do to prevent the comb from going dark and unappetizing?
 
The hives are truly in a terrible, mismanaged state, making it difficult to do basic maintenance.

It sounds as though you've got in over your head and, while I applaud your tenacity, you really need some on-site help from someone who knows what they are doing.

With no queen excluder on the hive, the queen could be anywhere in the stack although they tend to prefer warmer places. For this reason, she may well have laid brood all the way up the centre....although they tend to be forced towards the bottom if the top is packed full of honey. If she has nowhere to lay, they will swarm.

You can still extract the honey from combs that look unappetizing, but, I would be rotating some of them out for frames of foundation....as much to make sure the queen didn't become honeybound as to get clean comb.

The only way to clear the stack will be to work through it a bit at a time...but, if they are that aggressive, consider your safety and get help!
 
It sounds as though you've got in over your head and, while I applaud your tenacity, you really need some on-site help from someone who knows what they are doing.

With no queen excluder on the hive, the queen could be anywhere in the stack although they tend to prefer warmer places. For this reason, she may well have laid brood all the way up the centre....although they tend to be forced towards the bottom if the top is packed full of honey. If she has nowhere to lay, they will swarm.

You can still extract the honey from combs that look unappetizing, but, I would be rotating some of them out for frames of foundation....as much to make sure the queen didn't become honeybound as to get clean comb.

The only way to clear the stack will be to work through it a bit at a time...but, if they are that aggressive, consider your safety and get help!

+1 :iagree:
 
As suggested some help from a more experienced beek would help.
In your situation my objective would be to get the hives sorted out into a condition where you can inspect them more easily by getting all surplus (brace ) comb etc sorted.
Grit your teeth and get double suited or thick layers and thick gloves, that way you will know that they cannot get at you.

I would tackle the most aggressive hive as the only hive that day. Use smoke and let it take effect. Get as many supers off as you can and carry them as far away as you can manage. Set them up on a floor and cover them and the orginal brood box. Go and have a cup of tea.
When you come back the aggressive flyers will have returned back to the original brood box, and should cause you far less hassle. Go through each super, cleaning up each frame in turn, so that you can easily get them in and out of hive. Note presence of any brood in the supers.

I ewould then return them back to the brood box and leave it for the day. The next day I would leave them where they are and take the brood box off a distance and do the same to that to sort that out.

Once the frames are in manageable condition it then is a case of finding the queen and replacing her with a less aggressive one. If you are lucky you may already have seen her while cleaning up the boxes, but I would not look for her specifically at that stage ( you are likely to have enough on your hands)
 
In addition to the excellent advice above, I'd have a good look at the weather forecast before tackling what you think is the aggressive colony. An approaching rain or thunder storm as well as a strong breeze can get them upset. A distant bush fire, with smoke in the air, will not help either.

If you're not experienced, you may have been handling them roughly, with sudden semi-violent movements. I thought I had an aggressive colony two years ago until I saw our Bee Inspector going through the hive - it was a joy to watch and I learnt a lot just watching him work. The difficulty for you is, the hive is so gummed up with brace comb and propolis that smooth and slow movement may be difficult the first time you go through it.

As other have said, get experienced help and as much as possible! Try the BSSA as a first stop.

CVB
 
My first year was managing two hives received in a similar condition!

Knowing just how sticky boxes can be that have been neglected, I'd suggest giving the top AND bottom edges of every box, cover and floor a good scrape to get them clean of propolis and then a liberal dose of petroleum jelly on the edges.
That will go some way to reducing the tendency for everything to stick together, which will help in reducing the reaction of the bees each time you re-enter the hives.
 
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One way is to make a artificial swarm to separate old angry bees from inspecting.

Two foundation langstroth boxes in old site and old hive 10 feet away.
One brood frame into foundation box.

Old bees move to the foundation hive in 3 days and they do not disturbe you like the whole colony. Just emerged bees are not so angry as foragers.

You buy a new laying queen, and when emergency queen cells are capped, you give a new queen.

Then you clean the old hive, extract honey frames and kill the old queen.

When all is ready, you join old hive and foundation hive.

Let the old brood frames emerge and extract the honey. Then you see the condition of combs.
 
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One way is to make a artificial swarm to separate old angry bees from inspecting.

Two foundation langstroth boxes in old site and old hive 10 feet away.
One brood frame into foundation box.

Old bees move to the foundation hive in 3 days and they do not disturbe you like the whole colony. Just emerged bees are not so angry as foragers.

You buy a new laying queen, and when emergency queen cells are capped, you give a new queen.

Then you clean the old hive, extract honey frames and kill the old queen.

When all is ready, you join old hive and foundation hive.

Let the old brood frames emerge and extract the honey. Then you see the condition of combs.

Finny, when giving this newly bought queen to the foundation hive - after the emegency queen cells have been capped - how would you introduce her?
 
Finny, when giving this newly bought queen to the foundation hive - after the emegency queen cells have been capped - how would you introduce her?

When bees rear their own queen cells, they are not willing to accept another queen. But after capping, they do not mind. It takes couple of days to wait capping.

A bought queen is better to intoduce in cage.Assistand workers must be taken away.
Queen is over night in the cage in the hive.

Then I look, how bees react on the queen. If they bite with jaws the cage, it is a bad sign. If they do not mind about cage, it is a good sign.
If you put the queen under "push in csge", it is very good in intoduction.

But take care. Laying queen is good to fly.
 
Finny, when giving this newly bought queen to the foundation hive - after the emegency queen cells have been capped - how would you introduce her?

you don't let them build EQ's - there's only one frame of brood in there so it's no big job
 
you don't let them build EQ's - there's only one frame of brood in there so it's no big job

But they build queen cells. The precence of brood and building queen cells calm them down in the new hive. In bad case they move back to their old hive.

And the foundation hive gets new bees from old hive during next 3 days. They have the message odors from that old queen.

There are 20 habits to do this, but that this is very sure to succeed.
 
Getting help for them isn't an option. I like the ideas posted here regarding how to deal with the aggressive hives.

I spent a long day doing this job two weeks ago. This is the log I wrote in my journal:

Didn't look at E1. Last time we opened it we took out frames. New frames needed. E2 is very full, honey and bee wise. Extracted one frame, added empty super on top. E3 completely full. Extracted 2 frames, put another super on top. E4 completely full. Put new super on top. E6 completely full. Fully extracted top super. E5* extremely full honey wise. Right side of hive had freshly made comb. 5 frames worth extracted. Left side complete clusterfuck. Tried to pull up 2 frames. Comb broke and mangled. cannot pull frames from left side. Must work from right to left. Fair amount of brood on the top. Noted number of drones. Possibly preparing to swarm. Added new double super on top.

*E5 is a weird double hive: there's two supers joined together, creating effectively about 20 frames for each layer.

I ran out of time to do everything. In five days time, I'm planning on returning to the site, and camping there for the weekend. I should hopefully get a lot of much needed work done. The bees were mostly placid.

I tried to take photos, but with how busy we were, and more importantly, how sticky everything was, we were only able to take a few.

http://imgur.com/a/L72Jt

All photos are of hive E6. This is the only hive we worked extensively on: all others we more or less did an emergency, swarm prevention work on them. I had put an empty super on top, but the frames were undrawn with a bee excluder underneath.

After working E6, something unusual caught my eye. As seen in the photos, the bees were hanging on the outside of the hive: maybe I was using too much smoke? I told my assistant to give the hive a light puff, about every two minutes. Many bees also died. I'm not sure why they did so. It's concerning because there was many, as shown in the photos.
 

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